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By Brian Fry

The island of Sicily has one of the oldest winemaking traditions in the world. The pre-historic eruptions of Mount Etna left the soils rich with ash, providing optimal growing conditions.

Ancient civilizations were producing wine as far back as the 17th century B.C. The Greeks arrived around 8th century B.C., bringing with them new varietals for planting on the slopes of Mount Etna.

Since those early days the Sicilian wine industry has been a perpetual tale of boom and bust. Centuries of large production and success were countered by complete cessation of winemaking, usually because of religious reasons.

In the 17th century, British merchant John Woodhouse put Sicily on the world wine map by introducing the production of Marsala. Sicilian Marsala was shipped to all corners of the globe for consumption and its usefulness in cooking. The popularity of Marsala led to the establishment of many of Sicily’s most historic wineries that have stood the test of time to this day.

The 1950s saw the beginning of a great rebirth for Sicilian wines, and today the focus is on reaching for higher quality standards, which has caught the eye of the international wine press.

That recent acclaim has resulted in more Sicilian wine coming to America and a greater appreciation for the nation and its varietals. That’s where Marco Scapagnini comes into the picture.

He is a Sicilian native and a wine and travel specialist for IWG @ NicheItaly Importers. I met with Scapagnini to taste his impressive portfolio and learn more about the Sicilian wine Renaissance.

“It all began with a true commitment to top quality. The wineries began to hire qualified winemakers and focused on estate-grown indigenous grapes. This has led to significant improvements in overall quality.”

Marco acknowledges that Sicilian winemakers are blessed with a great canvas to create their wines. “The diversity of the microclimate and the soil on the Island from the windy western shore, to the warmer inland areas, and the colder temperatures and rich soils of Mount Etna provide a wonderful landscape for a winemaker.”

Wine is ingrained into the everyday life of most Sicilians, according to Marco. He explains the connection with a smile. “Almost every Sicilian drinks a good glass of wine a day. The whites are more of an aperitivo and the reds are enjoyed with the meal.”

Scapagnini will be traveling to our Valley in March to host a Sicilian Wine Dinner featuring these wines from his portfolio:

2013 Branciforti Grillo: Flora notes, citrus flavors and surprising minerality.

2013 Firriato Etna Bianco: Tropical fruits, honeydew melon and a hint of spice.s

2012 Branciforti Nero d Avalo: Soft and enveloping with baked red fruits and earthiness.

2012 Santagostino Nero d Avalo/Syrah Blend: Complex and brilliantly structured with plum and berry fruits, licorice and herbal elements.