Winter time means STEW time

By Daniel Neman

St. Louis Post-Dispatch

There is a simple seasonal-culinary formula for this time of year ... winter stew.

When days are cold and nights are long, there is nothing more warming and satisfying than a steaming hot bowl of stew. Or two. It makes everything seem right with the world.

I feel sorry for our friends in warmer climes. They don’t get to enjoy the glories of stew. Oh, they may cook up some fish or a couple of clams simmered in a sauce and call it stew, but that isn’t really the same thing.

Stew is hearty. Stew is filling. Stew gratifies your soul.

On the other hand, it also drains your pocketbook. Stew used to be inexpensive. That was sort of the point – it was a good way to use the cheapest cuts of meat. Even the toughest of meats becomes meltingly tender when it is slowly simmered in a sauce for at least a couple of hours.

But the price of even the cheapest, most fibrous cuts of meat has soared in recent years. Stew originally was a peasant food, but if there were any peasants anymore, they couldn’t afford it.

Still, when the temperature drops so much it makes your bones ache, nothing is as welcome as a steaming bowl of stew.

VEAL STEW IN MUSTARD SAUCE Yield: 6 servings

11/2 pounds boneless lean veal, such as round, trimmed of fat and cut into 2-inch cubes

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 cup chopped onion

2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

3 carrots, peeled and sliced

1/2 cup dried currants

2 cups veal stock, chicken stock or a combination of chicken and beef stocks

2 tablespoons grainy mustard

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

2 teaspoons cornstarch

2 tablespoons cold water

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

Wash the veal cubes and pat dry. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown the veal on all sides, removing the cubes with a slotted spoon when browned. This will have to be done in a few batches.

Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the onion and garlic, and sauti, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes. Return the veal to the pan and add the carrots, currants, stock, mustard and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat so the stew is just simmering and cook the stew, covered, for 11/2 hours or until the meat is fork-tender.

Mix together the cornstarch and cold water and stir into the stew. Allow it to simmer for 2 minutes to thicken. Stir in the vinegar.

Per serving: 219 calories; 8 g fat; 3 g saturated fat; 69 mg cholesterol; 19 g protein; 17 g carbohydrate; 11 g sugar; 2 g fiber; 230 mg sodium; 38 mg calcium.

LAMB TAGINE WITH GREEN OLIVES AND LEMON Yield: 8 servings

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

5 garlic cloves, minced

2 (21/2-inch) strips of lemon zest

2 teaspoons ground ginger

2 teaspoons sweet paprika

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

Pinch of saffron threads, crumbled

1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick

1 tablespoon kosher salt

31/2pounds boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 1-inch pieces

4 cups water

6 large carrots, thinly sliced

1 onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice

2 cups pitted green Picholine olives, rinsed

1 cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped

1 cup cilantro, chopped

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

In a large bowl, mix the olive oil, garlic, lemon zest, ginger, paprika, coriander, cumin, black pepper, cayenne, cloves, saffron, cinnamon stick and salt. Add the lamb and toss to coat. Refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours.

Put the lamb and spices into a tagine or medium enameled cast-iron casserole; discard the lemon zest. Add the water, carrots and onion, and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook over low heat until the lamb is very tender, about 2 hours.

Spoon off any fat from the broth. Stir in the olives, season with salt and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the parsley, cilantro and lemon juice. Serve with couscous.

Per serving: 478 calories; 31 g fat; 8 g saturated fat; 107 mg cholesterol; 13 g protein; 13 g carbohydrate; 4 g sugar; 3 g fiber; 2,018 mg sodium; 82 mg calcium.