Exotic and sublime

IF YOU GO

Where: Station Square Ristorante

Address: 4250 Belmont Ave, Youngstown

Hours: 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Monday through Saturday

Phone: 330-759-8802

Website: www.thestationsquare.com

By REBECCA S. NIEMINEN

Many times while traveling south on Belmont Avenue I’ve driven past Station Square Ristorante — a familiar landmark since 1986 — but never did I venture inside.

That all changed last week, however, when I sat down to a truly unforgettable meal prepared by executive chef and owner Ottavio Musumeci.

I had no idea the restaurant offered such outstanding fare, and the wow factor still hasn’t worn off even as I write this review.

Defined as a place for upscale Italian dining, Station Square’s menu is an exquisite mix of Italian favorites, seafood, steaks and pasta.

Musumeci was born and raised in Italy, and his culinary talents reflect the beauty and flare of international cooking as well as the familiarity of traditional American dishes.

He met his wife, Bridget Musumeci, a native of Warren, while she was studying to be a sous chef in Italy, and the pair assumed ownership of Station Square in 2001.

My Station Square dining experience ranks among the top five of all the restaurants I’ve visited in the Mahoning Valley. If you have not yet dined here, you simply must visit. Ottavio’s culinary ingenuity will astound you. His dishes are truly superb.

I started my meal with a sampler of celebrated appetizers: Greek Shrimp ($9.99); Zucchini Blossoms ($7.99); Spinach and Artichoke rangoon ($6.99); VIP Stuffed Mushrooms ($ 6.99); Parmesan Calamari ($9.99) and Conch Ceviche ($8.99).

The Greek Shrimp Appetizer consists of shrimp, chopped tomatoes, basil, black olives and feta cheese seasoned with Chardonnay wine. It delivers a pleasing blend of tastes and textures — creamy, crumbly feta, light, savory shrimp, salty olives and sweet tomatoes and basil. Topped with slender slices of toasted bread, it is as beautiful to behold as it is to taste.

The Zucchini Blossoms are a one-of-a-kind, in-season delicacy. Ottavio said he and his wife pluck the blossoms each morning from their garden and stuff them with a blend of Parmesan, Romano and mozzarella cheeses, dip them in a light tempura batter and then deep fry. Each blossom is served over a bed of marinara and pesto. The delicate blossoms have an almost fruity flavor that mixes deliciously with the creamy cheese filling and crisp battered coating. This was a first for me, and I will definitely enjoy it again.

The Spinach and Artichoke Rangoons look like petite dumplings, deep fried and stuffed with a blend of Italian cheeses, spinach and artichokes. The crispy-on-the-outside, soft-on-the-inside texture, along with the pleasing pairing of tastes, make these a satisfying treat.

The VIP Stuffed Mushrooms rank as one of Station Square’s staple appetizers, and one taste of these little beauties filled with crabmeat and broiled in garlic butter and you’ll understand why. Sublime.

The Parmesan Calamari is another house favorite. Tender calamari rings are fried to perfection, tossed in grated Parmesan and then served with sweet and sour sauce.

The Conch Ceviche was perhaps the most exotic appetizer to grace my table. A blend of fresh conch and diced vegetables seasoned with citrus and elegantly served in a martini glass. This fresh and light yet satisfying appetizer reminded me of something one might sample at a fancy tropical resort.

The Cavatelli Frutti Di Mare ($19.99) — the first entree to arrive at my table — evoked similar musings of exotic seaside fare. This dish boasts homemade cavatelli tossed with shrimp, scallops, clams and mussels, slathered in a spicy arrabbiata sauce. The gently spicy sauce pairs deliciously with the fresh seafood to create a dish that the finest Mediterranean chef would be proud to serve at his seaside cafe.

The next seafood entree — the Jumbo Broiled Scallops ($24.99) — was equally impressive. Large fresh bay scallops are broiled and served over a bed of Risotto Carbonara and topped with balsamic dressing. The creamy, cheesy risotto, dotted with tender green peas, is hearty and pleasing, and the giant scallops are melt-in-your-mouth delicious.

Equally savory and delicious was the Halibut Limoncello ($22.99) — Alaskan halibut sauteed in limoncello liqueur and served with fresh tomatoes, broccoli, tri-color peppers and asparagus.

Ottavio makes his own limoncello. He also said he insists on only the freshest ingredients and buys local when possible. For example, he purchases grass-fed, organic, Piedmontese beef from Manna Farms in Farmdale and also purchases free-range, organic chicken.

The seafood is also the freshest of the fresh, and if I weren’t already being spoiled by some of the most amazing cuisine around, the final entree to find its way to my table set a new standard for excellence. This entree — Ottavio’s In House Smoked Salmon from Sky Isle of Scotland ($23.99) — is superb and unlike anything you’ve ever sampled. The mild, smoky-tasting fish practically melts in your mouth and is paired with a mix of al dente vegetables including broccoli, squash and snow peas. Amazing.

A medley of lovely desserts crowned my already remarkable dining experience — cheesecake, key lime pie, tiramisu and bourbon pecan pie.

Pecan pie has always been one of my favorite sweets, but after having a slice of bourbon pecan pie, well, I can tell you I never want to go back to regular pecan pie again! The hint of rich liqueur mingles with the decadent filling and crunchy pecans to create a sinfully sumptuous experience for the palate.

The tiramisu is fabulous — the best I’ve ever tasted, the cheesecake is divine, and the key lime pie boasts the perfect marriage of tart, tangy and sweet.

Station Square Ristorante is also known for its wines. The restaurant offers 245 varieties, and in 2012, 2013 and 2014 received awards from Wine Spectator magazine. Wine Wednesday showcases six wines (that change each week) offered at retail price by the glass and the bottle.

If you like to sip your wine to the beat of music, visit on a Thursday when the restaurant features live bands.