Lonely Planet author travels to troubled lands

By BETH J. HARPAZ

AP Travel Editor

NEW YORK

Tony Wheeler wrote his first travel book with his wife Maureen in 1973 after driving across Europe and Asia. It sold 1,500 copies in a week and launched a guidebook empire called Lonely Planet.

The Wheelers made a fortune when the BBC bought the company in 2007 before the recession, but the BBC sold the company earlier this year at a huge loss. Meanwhile Wheeler, 66, is still doing what he built the brand on: traveling the world and writing about it.

His newest book, “Dark Lands,” recounts his recent adventures in countries troubled by ethnic strife, drug wars, colonial history and fiscal ruin. His itinerary included Colombia, where he was mugged; Congo, where he was arrested for taking a photo; the Palestinian territories, where kids pelted him with stones; and Pakistan, where he visited the site of Osama bin Laden’s assassination.

“Dark Lands” is a follow-up to Wheeler’s 2007 book, “Bad Lands,” which was about visiting “Axis of Evil” countries Iran, Iraq, North Korea, and other notorious spots. In a phone interview, Wheeler talked about “Dark Lands” and Lonely Planet.

Q. You were mugged, arrested and pelted with stones on this trip. Do those count as highlights?

A. They do count in a way. But I’d also say climbing up the Nyiragongo volcano in Congo was a highlight. It was like a children’s picture book of what a volcano should be. Smoke, dust, a big empty muddy hole, lava bubbling up. It was noisy; it smelt. It was perfect. Also going into the jungle in Papua New Guinea to get to Admiral Yamamoto’s aircraft. (Isoroku Yamamoto masterminded the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor; his aircraft was shot down in 1943.) A third one would be in Haiti, listening to music in the Oloffson Hotel on Thursday night. It’s such a buzz being there. Time flashes by and before you know it, it’s 2 a.m.

Q. Would any of the countries in “Dark Lands” work for a conventional vacation?

A. All of those countries have trouble. Some you cannot see an easy solution, others, well, things are getting better. The best example is Colombia. On most measures, Colombia is doing far better (with the decline of drug violence) than it was a couple of years ago. It has a lot of attractions. People say it’s the best Spanish colonial architecture in South America, and Cartagena is one of the most beautiful cities.

Q. Many places that were once off-the-beaten path have become overrun, and sometimes Lonely Planet recommendations contributed to that. How was this trip different?

A. I showed that you can still go to places where people are having amazing adventures. The Congo, for example, I only met a half-dozen tourists the whole time I was there and all of them were writing a book about it.