Sausage maker is a link to the past

May 10, 2010 at 12:00a.m.

Associated Press

CINCINNATI

The owner and president of one of the last surviving sausage makers in Cincinnati attributes his success to fresh ingredients and authentic recipes.

Elmer Hensler figures at least 40 other meat companies have gone out of business since he started Queen City Sausage & Provision in 1965.

Four years ago, Sara Lee Corp. closed E. Kahn’s and Sons plant, a deli meat facility whose brand dated to 1883 when Cincinnati was dubbed “Porkopolis.”

Hensler says he only uses good quality pork and beef and follows authentic German recipes including the spices they call for.

The company’s longevity and reputation paid off in February when Queen City signed a three-year deal with the Cincinnati Reds to become the exclusive bratwurst supplier at Great American Ball Park.

The move will boost revenue and hopefully encourage people who taste the bratwurst at games to buy it in stores, Hensler said.

Even during the recession, the company had its best year in 2009 with revenue of $8 million, up from $6 million in 2008. New equipment boosted production and made the company more efficient, Hensler said.

Peak production comes during the summer grill season when Queen City makes 120,000 pounds of sausage a week. The company sold 15 million sausage links last year, enough to stretch 1,300 miles, said general manager Patrick Miller.

Hensler, 80, grew up in Cincinnati’s West End where he started in meat packing at age 11 and eventually worked up to killing cows and lambs for the former E. Eckerlin slaughterhouse.

He and two partners started the business in 1965 with $13,000 in personal savings. By 2001, Hensler had bought out his partners and started expanding the plant.

The company’s operations include a maze of buildings with huge, stainless steel machines that process, smoke and package 40 types of sausages, lunch meats, hams and roast beef.

The company also sells cheese items to small grocers.

Hensler says he has no plans to take Queen City national despite its success.