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Pot of golden opportunities awaits visitors to Ireland, scholar says
By LINDA M. LINONIS
Photo
Brigid Kennedy, who has family in County Mayo, Ireland, lived in the Emerald Isle for two years. She shows some items from Ireland including a bodhrán, an Irish frame drum.
linonis@vindy.com
Canfield
When it comes to traveling in Ireland, Brigid Kennedy says the journey is just as important and as interesting as the destination.
Spectacular, though often rugged, terrain and ruins of castles along the road make it so.
Kennedy knows what she’s talking about. Her heritage is Irish, and she has family in County Mayo. She earned a master’s degree in Irish studies from the National University of Ireland in Galway and lived in Ireland from 1991 to 1993.
She’s taught and done research at Galway and taken multiple trips to Ireland. Kennedy can offer “An Insider’s Guide to Ireland” because she’s lived and breathed the culture.
On this St. Patrick’s Day, the Emerald Isle is on the minds of many. Kennedy noted that Ireland’s celebration of St. Patrick’s Day focuses more on its significance as a holy day, a feast day of the saint who spread Christianity among the Irish.
A big festival in Dublin, takes place five to seven days before March 17. “There are parades with street theater ... It’s a production,” she said, adding Irish mythology often is a theme.
Kennedy is assistant director of the Ursuline Sisters HIV/AIDS Ministry at the Ursuline Center, 4280 Shields Road. She recently spoke at the center about visiting Ireland.
Kennedy said the best months to visit the country are May through September. “The weather is never good ... you’d better like rain,” she said — though rain is sometimes called “Irish mist.”
She also advised against trying to keep dry under an umbrella, which she said will be turned inside out. She suggested a waterproof, hooded jacket.
“You’ll hear a lot of conversation about how firm the ground is,” she said, referring to rain-soaked earth and how quickly it is draining and drying out.
But when you get chilled, pop into a pub for hot whiskey, she said. Pubs also provide an opportunity to hear Irish music, when the locals gather to jam, and sometimes “ceili,” Irish group dancing.
Kennedy advised those planning a trip to Ireland to rent a car and set their own pace. “You want to amble along and cover about 30 to 40 miles a day,” she said. There’s a train between Galway and Dublin, but not a lot of public transportation is available.
A small car works well on the rough and narrow roads. Kennedy said she has heard of some American drivers, who prefer larger vehicles, tearing off side-mounted mirrors on cars because of narrow passages.
There’s also four-footed traffic on Irish roads. The first time you’re stopped by a flock of sheep being herded down the road, Kennedy said, you’ll take photos and think it’s great. The second time, she said, you’ll think it’s good and the third you’ll be wondering ... “what’s with these sheep?”
But that’s the flavor ... and more than a wee bit of aroma ... of Ireland.
Kennedy suggested staying in bed and breakfast places rather than hotels. “You’ll be more connected to the country and look less like a tourist,” she said. “And you’ll get a great breakfast.”
Another option would be what are called “castle hotels.” “They give you a historic feel,” Kennedy said of the accommodations that started out as real castles.
Guide to Ireland
What to see
Brigid Kennedy, who lived in Ireland for two years and visited many times, offers these tips to those taking a trip there.
Web site: Go to wwww.discoverireland.ie for the best information on sights to see and where to stay.
Sister city: Visitors will find Achill Island to be the sister city of Cleveland.
Language: There are “Gaeltachts” where only Irish is spoken but fewer than 1 percent of the population speaks native tongue. But you can try dia dhuit, which means hello and God be with you; dia’s muire dhuit, hello in reply and may God be with you; sl °n, goodbye; and sl °inte, cheers.
Rock on: Giants Causeway in County Antrium features geometric rock formations. “They’re a wonder of the world,” Kennedy said of the result of an ancient volcanic eruption.
Like a postcard: In County Cork, there’s Kinsale, which Kennedy described as “a most beautiful town that looks like a picture,” and Blarney, a standard tourist stop where the wool mills and gift shops are.
Movie buffs: If you’re an classic movie buff, visit County Mayo where “The Quiet Man” with John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara was filmed in Cong. There you also can see thatched-roof cottages. Nearby is Ashford Castle.
Churches: Visit St. Patrick Cathedral in County Dublin and the city.