Enjoying cold-weather veggies? It’s a snap

December 29, 2010 at 12:00a.m.

St. Louis Post-Dispatch

If you don’t think the aromas of broccoli, cauliflower or Brussels sprouts are cool, be glad the weather is getting colder.

“Vegetables in that family contain sulfur compounds that can smell foul in the kitchen,” says David Trinklein, a horticulturalist and associate professor of plant science at the University of Missouri-Columbia.

“In the spring in this region, it often gets too hot too soon and the vegetables can develop lots of these and get quite pungent. But they enjoy the crisp nights and cool clear days of this time of the year.”

What’s more, vegetables in the Brassica family — as well as leaf vegetables in other families, such as spinach — are genetically predisposed to “supercool,” which means that the liquids within them stay in a liquid state even when temperatures are below freezing.

In plainer language, some veggies like cold weather and have a longer season because they’re equipped to withstand frosts and freezes.

The aromas and flavors of fall-harvested versions are often much more appetizing than those grown in hot weather.

“Most of them will keep growing until the temperature reaches the low 20s,” Trinklein says.

SHREDDED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR AND PINE NUTS

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

1 pound small Brussels sprouts

Salt

1/4 cup pine nuts

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped fine

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1. Bring several quarts of water to a boil in a saucepan.

2. Meanwhile, trim and discard a layer or two of loose outer leaves from each Brussels sprout. Trim a thin slice from the stem end of each sprout. Add the trimmed sprouts and salt to taste to the boiling water. Cook until sprouts are almost tender, about 4 minutes. Plunge into a bowl of ice water. Cut the sprouts crosswise into thin strips and set aside.

3. Place nuts in a large skillet over medium heat. Toast, shaking the pan occasionally to turn the nuts, until they are golden brown and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Transfer the nuts to a small plate.

4. Briefly heat olive oil in the empty skillet. Add onion and saut over medium heat until golden, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.

5. Add Brussels sprouts and salt to taste. Cook, stirring occasionally, until sprouts have browned slightly, 5 to 7 minutes. Add vinegar and cook just until the liquid evaporates, about 1 minute. Stir in nuts and adjust seasonings. Serve immediately.

Variation: Replace the pine nuts with an equal amount of pecans. Add 1 teaspoon grated orange zest with the garlic. Replace the vinegar with 1/4 cup orange juice.

Per serving (based on 6): 75 calories; 2 grams fat; no saturated fat; no cholesterol; 3 grams protein; 12 grams carbohydrate; 3 grams sugar; 5 grams fiber; 35 milligrams sodium; 35 milligrams calcium.

Adapted from “Vegetables Every Day,” by Jack Bishop (HarperCollins, 2001).

RICE WITH SPINACH, HERBS AND CHEESE

Yield: 3 to 4 main-dish servings

1 cup long- or short-grain white or brown rice

Salt

1 pound spinach, stemmed and washed

12 sorrel leaves, optional

1 tablespoon olive oil or butter

1 medium onion, finely diced

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

1/4 cup finely chopped parsley

1 pinch red pepper flakes

11/3 cups grated provolone, Fontina or mozzarella cheese

3 eggs, beaten

1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly oil a 2-quart baking dish. Bring a pot of water to a boil, add rice and salt to taste and cook at a slow boil until the rice is tender but still a little undercooked — about 15 minutes for white rice, 30 minutes for brown rice. Rinse briefly with cool water, shake off excess water and transfer rice to a mixing bowl.

2. Wash spinach (and sorrel, if using) in several changes of water to get rid of the sand. Cook leaves in a large skillet with the water that clings to them just until wilted, then transfer the greens to a strainer. When cool enough to handle, chop roughly without wringing dry.

3. Heat oil in a small skillet, add onion and cook over low heat for about 5 minutes or until softened. Toward the end of cooking, add garlic and thyme. Remove from heat; stir in parsley and red pepper.

4. Add spinach, cheese, eggs and black pepper to the bowl of rice. Add onion mixture and stir to combine. Transfer to the baking dish. Cover loosely with foil.

5. Bake until heated through and the cheese is melted, about 25 minutes. Remove the foil and cook another 5 minutes. Remove from oven, let cool slightly and serve.

Per serving (based on 4): 420 calories; 17 grams fat; 8 grams saturated fat; 185 milligrams cholesterol; 19 grams protein; 47 grams carbohydrate; 2 grams sugar; 3 grams fiber; 350 milligrams sodium; 400 milligrams calcium.

Adapted from “Vegetables Every Day,” by Jack Bishop (HarperCollins, 2001).