Forgo beer bottles? Even skeptics can

By Josh Noel

Chicago Tribune

A canned-beer revolution is under way among craft brewers who swear that forgoing bottles is the best thing they can — har har — do for the integrity of their beer. Never mind that they were initially as skeptical as the beer drinkers they are trying to win over.

“We all laughed at first,” said Chad Melis, of Oskar Blues Brewery in Lyons, Colo., which has canned since 2002 and is widely considered the source of the trend. “But then we started looking at the details and realized it was better.”

Consumers are apparently starting to agree. Durango, Colo.-based Ska Brewing, for instance, only bottled its beer for seven years before adding cans in 2003. The growth has been steady, and many at the brewery expect can sales to overtake bottles this year.

Breweries that can are united in their arguments: Light compromises flavor. Glass is heavier and bulkier to transport. Cans create a tighter seal against damaging air and are easier to recycle. Most important, improved can technology has long prevented an unpleasant taste from seeping into the beer.

Our (skeptical) team of tasters tried several canned microbrews, including two intentionally bold choices: Oskar Blues’ Dale’s Pale Ale and Ska’s Modus Hoperandi India Pale Ale. Both held up beautifully, their hops staying fresh and filling our senses with glorious, earthy pine.

But the real test came with Big Sky Brewing of Missoula, Mont. We tried their Moose Drool Brown Ale and Trout Slayer Ale from both bottles and cans, and the results were clear: Cans won. Handily.

From the bottle, the Trout Slayer was thin and watery and tasted “grainy, like corn,” according to one judge. Out of the can it became a bold but crisp golden ale with a big aroma — a beer that I gladly would have sipped all afternoon.

There was less difference in the Moose Drool, but the canned version again fared better: bigger, bolder with more flavor and aroma. The nod to cans for both brews was unanimous among the tasters, which surprised them all.

So next time you’re at the liquor store, don’t instinctively look past the cans. But do remember that what resides inside is still a lively and complex beverage; when it comes time to imbibe, pour it in a glass.