Barbecued bird bliss

Gas-grilled chicken requires loving care or the bird is rubbery and goes to the dark side.

McClatchy Newspapers

When man and chicken meet at the grill, there’s no guarantee the end result will be a steaming platter of fall-off-the-bone barbecued bird.

Often the results are one of two disappointing scenarios: chicken that’s nicely browned on the outside but still pink and rubbery inside, or chicken that’s cooked so long it resembles the briquettes it was roasted over.

But with some time, patience, and a few grilling tricks, perfect barbecued chicken is only as far away as your back yard.

Chicken is one of the most affordable meats to cook, and it’s even cheaper when you steer clear of boneless, skinless cuts. For the best value, look for whole chickens you can cut up yourself at home, or chicken pieces that still have their bones and skin attached.

Most full-service butchers will cut up a chicken to your specifications, said Kris Burns, owner of Kirbie’s Family Meats and Catering in Stow. “Chicken with the bones and skin are still better values,” he said.

Cheaper and better

Not only will you save money by avoiding the boneless, skinless variety, you’ll produce grilled chicken that’s juicier, more tender and more flavorful when you grill it.

“Unfortunately, we have become this boneless, skinless chicken breast country,” said Fred Thompson, a North Carolina-based food writer and author of “Barbecue Nation” (Taunton Press, $18.95) and the newly released “Grillin’ with Gas.” (Taunton Press, $19.95)

Thompson understands that boneless breasts are handy for busy families who are trying to put a quick weeknight meal on the table between soccer practice and gymnastics. But he said home cooks have forgotten how good chicken on the bone can be.

“Chicken develops such a great flavor when it’s cooked slower, on the bone, than anything you will ever do with a boneless, skinless chicken breast,” Thompson said.

Cooking bone-in chicken on the grill will take about 45 to 50 minutes, compared with the 20 minutes it takes to cook boneless breasts, he said.

Even cooking

Bone-in chicken will cook more evenly because of the way the bones will conduct heat. “It takes longer, but you get more flavor development out of it,” Thompson said.

The skin provides a layer of protection to keep the meat from burning and the fat from the skin will baste the chicken while it cooks.

For those with health concerns, Thompson suggests cooking the chicken with its skin on and then peeling it off before eating. For those who won’t use bone-in meat, Burns suggested boneless skinless chicken thighs, because their dark meat is a bit fattier and they won’t get as dry as boneless breasts when grilled.

When selecting chicken for the grill, look for hens labeled “fryers,” which weigh about 3 1‚Ñ4 to 3 3‚Ñ4 pounds. They’re the perfect size for making grill favorites like beer-can chicken.

Larger birds, weighing 5 or 6 pounds, are considered roasters and are too big for grilling.

Save those for the oven, Burns said, because they’ll take too long on the grill and their outside will be done long before the inside is ready to go.

Use marinade

Before putting chicken on the grill, consider marinating it to increase its flavor and juiciness. Be careful with vinegar-based marinades. Chicken doesn’t need more than an hour or two in these because the vinegar can start to break down the meat and make it mushy.

Thompson recommends an overnight soak in low-fat buttermilk to turn out juicy chicken breasts on the grill. Because it’s not as acidic as vinegar, you don’t have to worry about the meat drying out as it brines.

Once on the grill, give chicken an initial sear on both sides, then move it to indirect heat (off of direct coals or flame) with the lid closed so it can cook without fear of burning.

Brian Bailey, co-owner of the Old Carolina Barbecue Co. in Canton and Massillon, said another trick for turning out moist, juicy chicken on the grill is to cook it partially in a water bath.

After searing both sides of the chicken pieces, about three or four minutes on each side, place the chicken into a pan with seasoned water or apple juice. Allow the chicken to cook primarily in the water bath, where it will soak in the flavorings and won’t dry out.

When the chicken is almost done, return it to the grill to sear it again and baste it with barbecue sauce. Bailey said he learned the technique when he and his partner, Tim Hug, were on the competitive barbecuing circuit.

Both Bailey and Thompson said investing in an instant-read meat thermometer is crucial to being a successful grill cook.

Safe temperature

Chicken must be cooked to 165 degrees to kill harmful bacteria, such as salmonella. Some chefs prefer to cook it to 170 to 180 degrees for that extra tender falling-off-the-bone experience.

Bailey said he never recommends going over 165 degrees, but he said grill cooks should be careful to not get into the 190- to-200-degree range, where chicken can become dry and hard. Using a thermometer also will prevent serving underdone chicken which can be pink, rubbery and unsafe.

Finally, baste the chicken with barbecue sauce only for the last 10 to 15 minutes of grilling. This will prevent the chicken from burning due to the sugar in the sauce and will ensure that the sauce is still moist when the chicken is served, not dried onto the meat.

This is when the chicken will need the cook’s undivided attention to watch out for flare-ups. Continue to baste the chicken with layers of sauce until it reaches that perfect charred, sticky perfection, Burns said.

SUPER-MOIST BUTTERMILK BRINED CHICKEN BREASTS

2 cups low-fat buttermilk

1 tablespoon kosher salt

4 1 pound bone-in chicken breasts

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon granulated garlic

1 tablespoon onion powder

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon ancho chili powder

1 teaspoon chipotle chili powder

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon ground sage

Your favorite sauce for chicken, barbecue or otherwise (optional, see note)

Pour the buttermilk into a large zip-top bag. Add the salt and the chicken breasts. Close the bag and squish the liquid around the chicken breasts. Put in the refrigerator and let sit overnight, turning the bag several times.

Combine the 11 herbs and spices in a small container with an airtight lid. You won’t use all of this mixture for this recipe, but use the extra within 6 months.

Oil the grill racks. Preheat your grill using all burners set on high and with the lid closed for 10 to 12 minutes.

When the grill is hot, cut off the center or back burner and adjust your heat to medium-high.

Remove the breasts from the bag and discard the brine. Pat the breasts dry and then sprinkle about a tablespoon of the rub on each breast, gently messaging the rub into the meat.

Place the chicken breasts, skin down, over the direct heat section of your grill, close the lid and cook for 3 to 4 minutes or until nicely seared. Turn and sear the other side for 3 to 4 minutes. Move the chicken breasts to the indirect area, cut your burners to medium, and close the lid.

You want to maintain about a 325-degree temperature. Grill-roast for about 45 minutes or until an instant-read thermometer reads 170 degrees in the thickest portion of the breast.

During the last 5 minutes, glaze the chicken with your choice of sauce on the skin side only. Remove the breasts from the grill to a platter and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve.

Makes 4 servings.

Notes: Thompson recommends his recipe for Virginia Pruitt’s Barbecue sauce for this chicken.

We tested this recipe using a whole cut-up chicken and found it worked well with breasts and thighs also.

“Grillin’ with Gas,” Fred Thompson

VIRGINIA PRUITT’S ORIGINAL PERFECT BARBECUE SAUCE WITH FRED’S TASTY MISTAKE

1 cup chopped yellow onion

1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup ketchup

1‚Ñ2 cup distilled white vinegar

1‚Ñ4 cup prepared yellow mustard

1‚Ñ2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1‚Ñ2 cup homemade white sauce (recipe follows) or pepper gravy mix, prepared as the package suggests

Combine all of the ingredients in a medium saucepan over medium heat and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat slightly and cook until thickened, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Thin with a little water if it gets too thick. Serve on anything your heart desires. This will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.

Makes about 2 cups.

WHITE SAUCE

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1‚Ñ2 teaspoon salt

1‚Ñ8 teaspoon black pepper

2‚Ñ3 cup whole milk

Melt the butter in a small saucepan. Whisk in the flour, salt and pepper. Slowly whisk in the milk. Bring almost to a boil and cook until thick, about 5 minutes.

“Barbecue Nation,” Fred Thompson

FORGET THE FRIED CHICKEN WINGS

3 pounds chicken wings

3 tablespoon canola oil

2 tablespoon My Quick, Simple and Wonderful All-Purpose Rub (recipe follows) or your favorite barbecue rub

1‚Ñ2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

6 garlic cloves, minced

1‚Ñ2 cup Frank’s RedHot Sauce or your favorite variety

1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar

1‚Ñ8 teaspoon celery seeds

Blue cheese or ranch dressing for serving

Celery sticks, for serving

Place wings in a large bowl and drizzle with the canola oil. Toss the wings until they are well coated. Sprinkle the rub over the wings and toss to coat. Cover and put in the refrigerator overnight.

About an hour before you’re ready to cook, remove the wings and make the hot sauce.

Take a large skillet and melt the butter over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook for about 2 minutes, just long enough for the garlic flavor to infuse the butter. Pour in the hot sauce, vinegar, and celery seeds. Stir to combine and remove from the heat.

Oil the grill racks. Preheat your grill using all burners set on high and with the lid closed for 10 to 12 minutes.

Place the wings on the grill, close the lid and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, turning frequently, until all sides are brown and have grill marks. Transfer the wings to the skillet with the hot sauce and place over low heat, tossing to completely coat the wings. Let the wings and the sauce meld for about 5 minutes. Remove the wings to a platter, and pour any additional sauce over them. Serve with the dressing, celery sticks, and plenty of napkins.

Makes 6 to 8 servings, as an appetizer.

“Grillin’ with Gas,” Fred Thompson

MY QUICK, SIMPLE, AND WONDERFUL ALL-PURPOSE RUB

1‚Ñ4 cup packed light brown sugar

1‚Ñ4 cup paprika

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 teaspoon cayenne

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly cracked black peppercorns

Combine all the ingredients in a container with a tight-fitting lid. Shake to mix. The rub will keep for several weeks.

Makes about 1‚Ñ2 cup.

“Grillin’ with Gas,” Fred Thompson

BEER CAN CHICKEN

2 teaspoon packed brown sugar

2 teaspoon paprika

2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1‚Ñ2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1‚Ñ2 teaspoon dried thyme, crushed

1‚Ñ4 teaspoon garlic powder

1 12-oz. can beer

1 31‚Ñ2-to-4 pound whole broiler-fryer chicken

2 tablespoon butter or margarine, softened

1 lemon wedge

In a small bowl, combine brown sugar, paprika, salt, dry mustard, pepper, thyme and garlic powder. Drink or pour about half the beer from the can. Add 1 teaspoon of the spice mixture to the half-empty can (beer will foam up).

Remove neck and giblets from chicken. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the spice rub inside the body cavity. Rub the outside of the chicken with butter and sprinkle on the remaining spice rub.

Hold the chicken upright with the opening of the body cavity at the bottom, and lower it onto the beer can so the can fits into the cavity. Pull the chicken legs forward so the bird rests on its legs and the can.

Twist wing tips behind back. Stuff the lemon wedge in the neck cavity to seal in steam.

For a charcoal grill, arrange medium-hot coals around a drip pan. Test for medium heat above pan. Stand chicken upright on grill rack over drip pan. Grill, covered for 11‚Ñ4 to 13‚Ñ4 hours or until chicken is no longer pink (180 degrees in thigh muscle.) If necessary, place a tent of foil over chicken to prevent overbrowning.

For a gas grill, preheat grill. Reduce heat to medium. Adjust for indirect cooking. If necessary, remove upper grill racks so chicken will stand upright. Cover and grill as above.

Remove chicken from grill, holding by the can. Cover with foil. Let stand for 10 minutes. Use a hot pad to grasp can and heavy tongs to carefully remove the chicken.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

“Grillin’ & Chillin’: 164 Finger-Lickin’ Fire-Kissed Foods,” Better Homes and Gardens