CARRYING ON A PURIM TRADITION

By Linda m. Linonis

Hamentaschen are cookies with sweet filling, but their shape and why they’re made involve a bit of history.

LIBERTY — Temple El Emeth’s newsletter relays this tidbit to its Jewish audience: “Purim just isn’t Purim unless you have several dozen world-famous Sisterhood Hamentaschen to nosh on.”

If you’re not Jewish, here’s the explanation. Purim is a Jewish celebration of survival observed on the 14th day of the month of Adar (March 10 this year) and is a festive time of parties with costumes and masks.

The Sisterhood is a group of Jewish women who volunteer their time and talents to the temple in fundraisers and other projects.

Hamentaschen are triangular cookies with apricot, cherry, poppy seed or prune fillings. The shape isn’t random, it has meaning.

“Nosh on” means to eat.

You don’t have to be Jewish to appreciate the yumminess of Hamentaschen. Food is a universal religion among those who appreciate the fine art of palate-pleasing traditions, and there’s a bit of history to digest, too.

Rabbi Joseph Schonberger speculated that Purim was the forerunner to Mardi Gras. “Purim is 30 days before Passover, and Mardi Gras is 40 days before Easter,” he said. “Purim is the last hurrah before Passover,” the rabbi said. Passover marks the Jews’ exodus from slavery in Egypt.

The history of Purim, Rabbi Schonberger said, goes back some 2,500 years when Esther married Achashverosh, king of Persia. The king didn’t know his new wife was Jewish and had given permission to his prime minister, Hamen, to eliminate the Jews in the land. Esther told her husband of her heritage, Rabbi Schonberger said, but the king couldn’t rescind his word. So, he ordered that mail — yes, mail — should go out to everyone in the land to warn them of the impending fight.

“Persia was ahead of its time with the mail,” Rabbi Schonberger said. “The Jews fasted and prayed before the day of destruction,” Rabbi Schonberger said. The small group of Jews overcame the larger enemy, the rabbi said. The celebration became Purim, and the Book of Esther recounts the story.

Hamen, the evil prime minister, wore a triangular hat. That’s where the cookie shape is derived from; eating the cookies symbolizes devouring of the enemy. Hamentaschen comes from the German words mohn (poppy seed, traditional filling) and taschen (pockets) and evolved to Hamentaschen, the rabbi said.

That’s the history. Here’s the tasty part.

Temple El Emeth Sisterhood members gathered Sunday to make the Hamentaschen dough. In the temple’s kitchen, they work in assembly-line style. Cookie making was Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday; the routine will be repeated next week. Supplies are from Sniderman Brothers Inc. in Youngstown.

Ronna Marlin and Sherri Clayman, Hamentaschen project co-chairwomen, do the overall planning and scheduling. Rochelle Miller was chairwoman Monday when apricot Hamentaschen were made. The making and baking took place from about 9 to 11 a.m. Other Sisterhood members arrived later to package cookies, which are frozen for later use. The Sisterhood members estimated the project has been going on 40 years.

Elyse Silverman, who makes Hamentaschen with the Sisterhood and at home, worked with newcomer Stephanie Solomon. “It makes things go quicker when you work as a team,” Silverman said.

Silverman rolled out the cookie dough and cut the dough circles. Solomon spooned generous dollops of apricot filling in the centers, then pinched the dough to form a triangular shape. “This is the first time in a long time I’ve done this, but it means a lot to be involved,” Solomon said.

The dough recipe is from Silverman’s aunt, Min Harskovitz, 97, a Sisterhood member, who volunteered with another talented baker, the late Jennie Simon. “It’s the best,” Clayman said of the recipe whose ingredients include orange juice and orange zest. Before they’re baked, the cookies are brushed with a wash of egg whites and sugar. “That makes the texture turn out great,” Clayman said as she applied the wash.

After the cookies get the wash, they’re baked about 10 minutes. Miller deftly slid the cookie trays in and out of the oven, keeping track of the minutes by a clock and the timer in her mind.

The cookie bakers will make some 40 dozen each of cherry and apricot and 20 dozen each of prune and poppy seed. “Some will go in care packages to college students,” said Miller. The children of Sisterhood members are recipients.

Some cookies will be served at the joint Temple El Emeth, Ohev Tzedek and Beth Israel Purim celebration March 9 at Temple El Emeth. Others go to fill orders placed by temple members and friends.

Debbi Grinstein said she enjoyed the tradition and noted it was “important to carry on the tradition here at temple and at home.” Grinstein said that she and her son, Andrew, 17, make cookies at home.

The tradition also is valued by Silverman, who said it was important to her to pass on the recipe and custom in her family. She said she would be baking with her daughter, Devra, 16, and would be teaching her grandchildren.

Sandy and Sam Zians also were lending a hand. “It’s a mitzvah ... that’s a good thing ... for family and friends,” Sandy Zians said.

linonis@vindy.com