Diane Evans \ DelMio.com University presses work to preserve local culture

The author: Russ Vernon, a famous Akron area grocer who started working at his father’s upscale food market at age 8, still going in regularly even in retirement.

The book: “West Point Market Cookbook,” published by the University of Akron Press as a series on Ohio history and culture.

The quality of the book is as high as Vernon’s standards for his store. That explains why local shops around town have it on display, and why more than 5,000 copies have sold. It also points to the value of the often-overlooked university press as a source of occasional gems.

Around the country, university press operations are under pressure, not just as a result of a bad economy, but also because of the challenges facing traditional print media as digital publishing increases in popularity.

The Utah State University Press, for example, is in danger of losing university support. Recently, the University of Michigan Press announced it would eliminate most of its print operations and move primary to digital publishing.

The print vs. digital debate aside, what’s important is to preserve the place of the university press. In addition to scholarly work, these university publishing houses are valuable for preserving regional history and culture.

“With larger publishers deciding not to invest as much in books of local culture, the university press becomes a means for serving that market,” said Tom Bacher, director of the University of Akron Press. “This is a way the university press can help with community engagement.”

The West Point cookbook is a case in point. The store is part of local history.

In a forward to the book, Akron writer David Giffels described the best kind of provincialism as “life in a place that enjoys certain flavors exclusively.” It’s not just the flavor of food, either.

At West Point, the elitism of the gourmet surroundings is tempered by a reaching out to the whole city. If the Easter Bunny is going to be there, people from all over town show up. Plus, Vernon likes to shower attention on customers, often sharing the kind of insights you’ll find in the book.

A few excerpts:

On picking produce: “As a boy, I watched and learned from my father. ... When farmers shouted out, ’Just picked — red, ripe strawberries! Fifty-nine cents a quart!’ he knew to inspect the bottom of the strawberry basket. ... You have to be patient and careful when it comes to selecting the finest quality produce, whether it’s for your business or the family dinner table.”

On salad dressing: “I prefer to make my own salad dressing. In the past, I experimented with different recipes, and the result was always too acidic, too messy or just too much waste. A simple oil and vinegar mix is easy.”

On making an omelet: “Don’t worry about using one of those cute two-sided pans or omelet forks. I’ve been using the same 10-inch sloped-sided pan and a regular fork for 15 years and the omelet always slips easily on the plate. As with any art, it takes practice.”

XDiane Evans is a former Knight Ridder columnist and is president of DelMio.com, a new interactive online magazine on books for writers and readers.

2009, DelMio.com