Time for pigskin pigging out

By BOB BATZ JR.

Fans may be the tailgaters, but players love the notion, too.

You gotta love it: The glowing gridiron, the sizzle of pigskin, the crunch of ribs and other bones, the chips falling where they may.

And I’m not talking about just the sport of football, but also the big feasts that go hand-in-mouth with watching the games.

Whether they tailgate in the parking lot or park their butts on the couch, there’s something about watching football that makes people ravenous.

“Other sports, you don’t think like that. Who cooks a big meal for watching a baseball game?” asks cookbook author Ray Lampe. “Football just has that for whatever reason.”

With the season firing up, many football fans will gobble up two new football cookbooks that are just hitting the market.

Lampe, aka “Dr. BBQ,” who’s written three books on that subject, offers one titled “The NFL Gameday Cookbook: 150 Recipes to Feed the Hungriest Fan from Preseason to the Super Bowl” (Chronicle, $24.95).

The National Football League is officially a co-author of the book, which bears its logo and statistical info about each team, plus a snapshot of each hometown’s food scene.

But the recipes don’t come from, nor are they attached to, specific teams or towns.

“Being an old Bears fan, I knew if I made it ’The Green Bay Packers Mac and Cheese Soup,’ I would never make that,” the now-Floridian says over the phone from a gig in California. “I might not even buy the book!”

So instead, the recipes are organized as in any cookbook — in categories from appetizers to desserts — with Lampe making suggestions for dishes that he thinks would fit a game-day party in particular places, considering factors such as geography and time zone. (Northern teams might like hotter, heartier fare, while West Coasters may be more likely to start tailgating at breakfast.)

Lampe provides basic information on equipment and planning and menu plans for special feasts such as the Super Bowl. But he knows that this isn’t rocket science. “It’s not a fan book. It’s not a history of tailgating. It’s a cookbook for tailgaters to use.”

He means the book to be as useful at home, not just at the stadium parking lot. No matter where you prepare and eat it, he believes good football food should be quick to make and/or makeable ahead. And he worked hard for balance between recipes basic and more advanced. As he puts it, “I know there are guys now that like to cook more complicated things.”

Game-day gourmands will find more interesting recipes in another book just hitting stores: “The Sunday Night Football Cookbook: 150 Great Family Recipes from America’s Pro Chefs and NFL Players” (NBC Sports and Time, $27.95). It bears not only the NFL’s logo but also NBC’s and has introductions by John Madden and Faith Hill.

Part of the proceeds from this book will go to food banks around the country via the charity Feeding America (the new name of America’s Second Harvest) and Taste of the NFL, the league’s huge Super Bowl feed that pairs chefs and players from all 32 NFL cities to raise money and awareness for hunger relief.

So this book includes recipes from dozens of chefs who’ve been involved in that effort as well as from Madden and other broadcasters and players (not to mention “Faith Hill’s Greek Salad”).

And this book is organized not only by type of food but also by NFL regions and teams.

These are recipes for game days and not game days, but they’re all for a good cause, says Liz Brown, director of Taste of the NFL. Started by Wayne Kostroski in 1992 in Minneapolis (where she lives), the group has since raised $6.8 million for food banks in NFL cities around the country that share in the proceeds.

Fans pay to attend the big tasting party, where they can hobnob with players, both active and retired. Taste of the NFL also holds local fund-raisers in nine cities throughout the year (see tasteofthenfl.com).

It’s appropriate that foodie parties, and a cookbook, can help people who don’t get enough to eat, says Brown, and the sport couldn’t be a better fit.

“Everybody loves football, and food just goes hand in hand with it.”

CHESTER PITTS’ POTATO CASSEROLE

Butter. Sour cream. Cheddar cheese. Canned chicken soup. Ritz crackers. It’s as if the potatoes are just seasoning.

Well, the chef does weigh 320 pounds. In the new “Sunday Night Football Cookbook,” the Houston Texan offensive tackle explains, “This recipe has been in my household for about five years — I learned to make it from my fiance , Latoyah. I only cook it for my family and it’s always a hit, especially with the little ones. It’s easy and delicious.”

My wife and I joked about how bad this must be for us ... and ate seconds. It’s bland, so she doused it in hot sauce; I might add onions to it. And maybe a life insurance policy.

1 (2-pound) bag frozen diced potatoes (Southern-style hash browns)

1 (103‚Ñ4-ounce) can cream of chicken soup

8 ounces shredded cheddar cheese

1‚Ñ2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

1 cup light sour cream

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the topping:

1 tube Ritz crackers, crushed (about 1-1‚Ñ2 cups)

1‚Ñ4 cup (1‚Ñ2 stick) unsalted butter, melted

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a large bowl, combine all the non-topping ingredients. Spread in an 8-by-111‚Ñ2-inch baking dish.

Make the topping: Combine the crackers and 1‚Ñ4 cup butter. Top the casserole with the cracker mixture and bake for 50 to 60 minutes, until very bubbly and deep golden brown on top.

Serve immediately. Serves 6.

From “The Sunday Night Football Cookbook” (NBC Sports and Time, $27.95)

DOENEE’S NUTELLA BARS

“Doenee” is Ray Lampe’s nickname for his sister, Denise.

1 cup light corn syrup

1 cup sugar

1 cup Nutella (chocolate-hazelnut spread)

6 cups crisp rice cereal

Lightly grease a 9-by-13-inch pan. In a Dutch oven over medium heat, cook the corn syrup, sugar and Nutella, stirring often until the sugar is melted. Remove from the heat and add the cereal. Toss well, coating all of the cereal. Transfer the mixture to the pan and push down to form an even layer in the pan. Let cool for 30 minutes and cut into 20 bars.

From “The NFL Gameday Cookbook” by Ray Lampe (Chronicle, $24.95)

HINES WARD’S KOREAN-STYLE BRAISED SHORT RIBS

The Pro Bowler says his mom marinates these ribs “for two or three days to really let the flavor soak in.”

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

4 (3- to 4-inch) beef short rib pieces with bones (about 3 pounds)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 white onion, chopped

4 garlic cloves, chopped

1 (2-inch) piece ginger, chopped

1‚Ñ4 cup rice wine (mirin)

1‚Ñ2 cup soy sauce

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

1‚Ñ4 cup packed light brown sugar

1 small apple, peeled and chopped

3 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

3 cups hot cooked white rice

Chopped scallions

Sesame seeds

In large, heavy saucepan or Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat. Season short ribs with salt and pepper. Working in batches, sear ribs, turning, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

Add onion, garlic and ginger to fat in the pan, reduce heat and saute about 5 minutes. Add rice wine and cook until almost evaporated, stirring.

Add the soy sauce, vinegar, brown sugar and apple and stir to dissolve the sugar.

Return ribs to pan and add water to cover. Raise the heat, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 11‚Ñ2 to 2 hours, turning occasionally to keep meat fully covered, until the meat is very tender and falling off the bone.

Remove the ribs from the braising liquid, pat dry with paper towels and place on a wire rack above a roasting pan covered with aluminum foil.

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

Strain braising liquid and return half to pan. Cook over medium-high heat until reduced by about half and slightly thickened, 15 to 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, brush the short ribs with the sesame oil. Roast until browned and crisp, 10 to 12 minutes. Let rest for a couple of minutes.

Spoon the rice into shallow serving bowls, place the ribs on top and drizzle with a small amount of the sauce. Garnish with scallions and sesame seeds and serve immediately.

Serves 4.

From “The Sunday Night Football Cookbook” (NBC Sports and Time, $27.95)

MAC AND CHEESE SOUP

Ray Lampe says he’s especially proud of this recipe from his new “The NFL Gameday Cookbook,” in which he writes, “This is a unique and tasty soup that will be a favorite on those cold game days.” It’s very thick and rich.

10 slices thickly cut bacon

1 medium onion, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1‚Ñ4 cup all-purpose flour

1 (14-ounce) can vegetable broth

3 cups whole milk

1 tablespoon good-quality chili powder

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon dry mustard

4 cups (1 pound) shredded sharp cheddar cheese

11‚Ñ2 cups dried elbow macaroni, cooked

Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

Cut the bacon strips into quarters. In a Dutch oven over medium heat, cook the bacon until crisp. Remove it to paper towels to drain.

Add a little oil to the pan if needed, then add the onion. Cook the onion for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and continue cooking until the onion is soft and lightly browned, about another 5 minutes. Add the flour and mix well. Cook for 2 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a simmer, stirring often. Add the milk, chili powder, pepper and mustard. Return the soup to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Cook for 3 minutes.

Add the cheese and bacon and continue cooking and stirring until well blended, about 4 minutes. Add the macaroni and return to a simmer. Remove from the heat and serve, sprinkling with parsley.

Makes 8 servings.

From “The NFL Gameday Cookbook” by Ray Lampe (Chronicle, $24.95)