Method recreates flour formula

By Donna Pierce

CHICAGO — Bryan Kadel of Wheaton, Ill., offered an answer to Diane O’Donohue’s recent request for the correct proportion of rye to wheat flours in a Bohemian-Style Rye Wheat Flour Mix that Pillsbury no longer sells.

The flour was integral to a favorite family recipe, so when Kadel learned that it was being discontinued, he went to work. He looked at the ingredients on the bag, which listed “an equal blend of rye flour and wheat flour,” and then he experimented to come up with a process that would duplicate the product. Here’s his formula:

First, Kadel takes rye flour and moistens it with the liquid called for in the bread recipe, and refrigerates it for 12 hours. When he is ready to make the recipe, he uses an equal amount of bread flour as well as 1 teaspoon of vital wheat gluten for every cup of rye flour used. Vital wheat gluten is the natural protein found in wheat, according to the Web site of Bob’s Red Mill, one of the companies that sells the product. It improves texture and increases volume in baked goods and is sold in small bags near the flour in the baking section of many supermarkets. It’s available by mail (22 ounces for $5.89) at bobsredmill.com.

In the test kitchen, we adapted Kadel’s approach with a recipe from our archives, which also called for a Bohemian-style rye-wheat flour. The recipe came from Mae Vesely of Cicero, Ill., and first appeared in the Chicago Tribune in 1992. The results using Kadel’s formula were impressive.

BOHEMIAN RYE BREAD

3 cups rye flour

5 cups warm water, plus more if needed

2 packages ( 1/4 ounce each) active dry yeast

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar

2 3/4 teaspoons vital wheat gluten

3 cups unbleached flour, plus more if needed

1/2 stick ( 1/4 cup) butter, softened

1 tablespoon each: salt, caraway seeds

1 egg, mixed with 2 tablespoons water

Place the rye flour in a large bowl; stir in 2 cups of the warm water. Cover; refrigerate 12 hours. Let mixture come to room temperature, about 30 minutes.

Stir the yeast and brown sugar into 3 cups of the warm water in a medium bowl; let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes.

Stir the wheat gluten into the 3 cups unbleached flour in a medium bowl; stir the mixture into the rye flour mixture. Stir in the butter, salt and caraway seeds; make a well in the center. Add the foamy yeast mixture. Beat with a mixer on low speed to make a soft dough, adding additional unbleached flour and water as necessary. Attach a dough hook to the mixer; knead with a dough hook (or turn dough onto a floured board and knead by hand) until bread is supple and elastic, 6-8 minutes. Turn on to a floured board; knead by hand 1-2 minutes.

Place dough in an oiled bowl; cover with a damp towel. Let rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, 1 to 11/2 hours. Punch down dough. Divide in half; shape into loaves. Place in two oiled 9-by-5-inch loaf pans. Cover; let rise until doubled, 45 minutes-1 hour.

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Brush loaves with the egg-water mixture. Bake until golden, 45-50 minutes. Remove from pans; cool on wire racks.

Nutrition information per serving: 87 calories, 18 percent of calories from fat, 2 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 9 mg cholesterol, 16 g carbohydrates, 2 g protein, 197 mg sodium, 2 g fiber

Yield: 2 loaves, about 36 slices.