Take a trip back in time for a flavorful favorite

A key to making a perfect fondue is to avoid low-fat cheese.

By CAROLE KOTKIN

MCCLATCHY NEWSPAPERS

Winter is the perfect time for fondue, a fun ’70s fad that’s enjoying a resurgence. Invite a few friends — no more than four to six, so everyone can reach the pot — and make it a party.

Fondue originated in Switzerland as a way of using hardened cheese and dry bread. Melted Appenzeller, Emmentaler and/or Gruyere is combined with white wine for acidity and kirsch (cherry brandy) for a hint of sweetness. Diners use long forks to dip in bread or vegetables.

The burner of a fondue set may be fueled by denatured alcohol, fuel paste or electricity. If you don’t have a set, use a stoneware casserole dish preheated in a 250-degree oven. It will hold the heat for 30 minutes. Or set an earthenware or enameled cast-iron casserole on a hot plate heated to its lowest setting.

Here are more tips

UDon’t use reduced- or no-fat cheeses. They don’t melt well.

UStir constantly as you melt the cheese, reaching into the “corners” of the pot.

UDon’t let the cheese boil or it will seize up and turn lumpy. If that happens, briskly whisk in a tablespoon of lemon juice or vinegar.

UIf the mixture is too thin, stir in more cheese or a bit more cornstarch dissolved in a little wine. If it’s too thick, add more wine.

UBesides bread, good dippers include cherry tomatoes, mushroom caps, broccoli and cauliflower florets and steamed new potatoes or baby carrots.

UTo serve, set the fondue pot in the center of the table with a tray underneath to protect from the heat and catch drips. Place your dippers nearby.

UBesides a long-handled, color-coded fondue fork, give each guest a table fork and a plate. It’s best to dip with the fondue fork, remove the dipper to the plate and eat it with the table fork. That keeps things sanitary and minimizes the chance of burns.

UFor optimal dipping, move your fork in a figure eight. That keeps the fondue stirred and coats the dipper efficiently. And remember: No double dipping!

UWhen the pot is almost empty, scrape out the crust that’s formed on the bottom and divide it among your guests for a final, savory mouthful.

CLASSIC SWISS CHEESE FONDUE

2 baguettes

8 ounces Gruyere cheese, shredded

8 ounces Emmentaler cheese, shredded

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 garlic clove, halved

1 cup sauvignon blanc or chardonnay

3 tablespoons kirsch

Dash nutmeg, preferably freshly grated

Salt and white pepper (optional)

Cut baguettes into bite-size pieces, making sure each piece has some crust; set aside. Toss cheeses with cornstarch, coating evenly; set aside.

Rub garlic over the inside of a heavy 4-quart saucepan or burner-proof fondue pot; discard. Add wine to pot and set over low heat until it bubbles. Add cheese a handful at a time, stirring until melted between each addition. Do not let it boil. When completely melted, remove from heat. Stir in kirsch, sprinkle with nutmeg and, if desired, season with salt and white pepper. If using a saucepan, transfer to a fondue pot set over a flame. Serve with bread cubes for dunking. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Source: Adapted from “Fondue” by Lou Seibert Pappas (Chronicle, $14.95).

Per serving: 702 calories (34 percent from fat), 26.4 g fat (14.7 g saturated, 8.1 g monounsaturated), 76.2 mg cholesterol, 33.4 g protein, 70.8 g carbohydrates, 3.8 g fiber, 1,007 mg sodium.