Making special treats for Valentine’s Day

By GWEN SCHOEN

SCRIPPS HOWARD

It’s nearly impossible to imagine Valentine’s Day without truffles.

They are, after all, made of chocolate, and that, says the Chocolate Manufacturers Association is the elixir of love.

The association’s Web site, www.candyusa.org, says that “Madame du Barry served it to all her suitors; Casanova consumed chocolate instead of champagne to induce romance; and Montezuma, the king of the ancient Aztecs, believed chocolate would make him virile. In the 1800s, physicians commonly advised their lovelorn patients to eat chocolate to ’calm their pining.’ “

And so, if you are looking for that perfect gift that will give your sweetie’s heart a patter, truffles are the answer.

According to lore, truffles were named after the fungus. The most logical explanation we could find for that association is that chocolate truffles originally were oddly shaped and dusted with unsweetened cocoa powder, which made them look like wild truffles.

Just like the mushroom type, chocolate truffles have always been synonymous with extravagance and luxury, which further explains the name.

There are several types of truffles, each made differently but all made with chocolate.

American-style truffles are those shaped like domes or half-eggs with a variety of smooth, creamy fillings. Joseph Schmidt, a San Francisco chocolatier, created the first American-style truffles in the mid-1980s. Schmidt’s egg-shaped truffles are his company’s trademark.

European-style truffles, which are generally solid chocolate, are made with syrup, cocoa powder and milk powder, among other things. They are dense and heavy compared with American truffles.

Swiss-style truffles are made with a filling of ganache. Ganache is made by heating heavy whipping cream to a simmer, then pouring it over chopped chocolate. The mixture is blended until the chocolate is melted and smooth. You can also add flavorings such as almond extract or a liquor such as rum, brandy or Grand Marnier. The ganache is cooled, then rolled into balls. As a finishing touch, the balls are usually rolled in unsweetened cocoa powder or dipped in melted chocolate or some other confection to give them a thin shell coating.

“Truffles are made with chocolate,” said Ginger Elizabeth Hahn of Ginger Elizabeth Chocolates, a new chocolate boutique in Sacramento, Calif. “So they are certainly luxurious. The scientific name is Theobroma cacao, which, appropriately, means food of the gods.”

If you’d like to try making your own truffles at home, it’s not difficult, but it does take some attention to detail. Hahn has these suggestions:

“First, begin with wonderful chocolate,” she said. “When you work with good quality, your efforts won’t be wasted.”

Hahn recommends using bulk chocolate instead of bars, as it is less expensive while still high-quality. Good-quality chocolate will cost between $8 and $15 a pound, she said.

“Stay away from chocolate that has palm kernel oil or vegetable fats on the ingredient list, because it will be difficult to work with, and the flavor won’t be as intense,” Hahn said.

At home, you should store chocolate tightly wrapped in a cool dry place. If stored above 70 degrees, it can develop a gray color called a “bloom.” When stored in damp conditions, it might develop gray sugar crystals on the surface. Either way, it is still good to use.

The key difference between the various forms of chocolate, such as milk or semisweet, is the percentage of cocoa butter and chocolate liquor they contain.

“Cocoa butter is a natural vegetable fat contained in the cacao beans. When the cocoa butter is extracted, what is left is a paste called chocolate liquor,” Hahn explains. “When the liquor is refined and dried, then ground into a powder, it becomes unsweetened cocoa powder.”

According to the Chocolate Manufacturers Association, milk chocolate is required to contain at least 10 percent chocolate liquor. Semisweet or bittersweet chocolate must contain at least 35 percent chocolate liquor. For most recipes, you can use whatever form of chocolate that you like best.

You might also hear chocolatiers talk about “couverture chocolate.” This contains at least 32 percent cocoa butter, which allows it to form a thin shell when used as a coating. Couverture is prized because it dries to a high gloss.

Because chocolate scorches easily, it should be melted slowly. One method is to place it in a bowl or the top of a double boiler and place that over hot or barely simmering water. Make sure the bowl holding the chocolate does not touch the water. Stir it frequently while it melts.

Chocolate can also be melted in the microwave. Place it in a microwave-safe bowl and heat at 50 percent power. Four ounces of chocolate will melt in three or four minutes, but you need to stop the microwave every 30 seconds and stir the chocolate.

The perfect temperature for chocolate that you plan to use for dipping is 90 degrees, said Hahn. If you don’t have an instant-read thermometer, give it a wrist test as like you would when testing baby’s milk for temperature. It should feel slightly warm, but not hot.

A single drop of water or other moisture in the chocolate will cause it to seize (turn hard and clump together). Melting chocolate over too high a heat can also cause it to seize or turn grainy. Sometimes seized chocolate can be recovered by melting it again with 1 tablespoon of oil to 6 ounces of chocolate.

Once you are finished dipping the truffle fillings, save any leftover chocolate to use another time. It will set up firmly so it is easy to store.

These truffles reflect the current trend toward blending salty and sweet flavors. Once the truffles have been dipped, you give them a light sprinkling of coarse sea salt, which not only makes them beautiful but is a surprise to the palate. You can use semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, depending on the flavor you prefer.

They do take a lot of prep because the mixture needs to chill three times, but the results are worth the wait. This recipe is based on one from Bon Appetit magazine.

FLEUR DE SEL TRUFFLES

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate

1⁄3 cup sugar

2 tablespoons water

2⁄3 cup heavy whipping cream

3⁄4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

12 ounces semisweet chocolate

1 tablespoon coarse sea salt

To make the filling: Break apart the 8 ounces of bittersweet chocolate into small pieces. Place it in a metal bowl over a saucepan of lightly simmering water. Make sure the water does not touch the bottom of the bowl. Stir the chocolate until it is melted and smooth. Remove the chocolate from over the water and set it aside.

Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan. Stir over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Dip a pastry brush in water and use it to wash down the sides of the pan. This will prevent any undissolved sugar crystals from falling into the sugar syrup and turning the mixture grainy. Increase the heat slightly and bring the syrup to a soft boil.

Cook, without stirring, until the syrup turns a deep amber color, about four minutes.

Add the cream all at once. The mixture will bubble and steam. Reduce the heat to low or remove the pan from the heat and stir the mixture until it is smooth. Pour the cream mixture into the melted chocolate and stir until it is blended. Chill the filling until it is firm, about three hours.

Finishing the truffles: Place the cocoa in a bowl. Roll the filling mixture into balls using about 1 tablespoon of filling for each. Roll the balls in cocoa and place them on a piece of foil. Cover and chill overnight.

Place the 12 ounces of semisweet chocolate (you may use bittersweet if you prefer) in a metal bowl over gently simmering water. Do not allow the bowl to touch the water. Stir until the chocolate is melted and thin. It should be about 115 degrees, no hotter. Remove the bowl from the water. Dip one truffle filling at a time into the melted chocolate. Use a fork to roll the truffle in the chocolate until it is completely covered. Lift it out of the chocolate and place it on a baking sheet lined with foil. Repeat with the remaining truffle centers.

Lightly sprinkle the truffles with the coarse sea salt. Chill until firm and bring to room temperature before serving.

Makes 24

Per truffle: 141 cal.; 2 g pro.; 17 g carb.; 9 g fat (6 sat., 3 monounsat..); 9 mg chol.; 103 mg sod.; 2 g fiber; 8 g sugar; 53 percent calories from fat.

CHOCOLATE-COVERED BERRY TRUFFLES

Semisweet or bittersweet chocolate is a nice combination with sweet berries, particularly if you use raspberries. If you can find raspberries this time of year, they are usually very expensive. We found blackberries and thought they worked just fine. The recipe is based on one from Gourmet magazine.

1⁄4 cup heavy cream

8 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped fine

11⁄2 tablespoons brandy

1 cup fresh blackberries or raspberries

3⁄4 cup cocoa powder

Place the cream in a small saucepan and bring it to a simmer over medium heat. Remove the cream from the heat and add the chopped chocolate. Stir the chocolate mixture until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Add the brandy and blend well.

Use a fork to dip one berry at a time into the chocolate. Drain off excess and transfer the dipped berries to a baking sheet covered with wax paper. Chill the berries until firm, at least an hour.

Place the cocoa in a bowl. Add the chocolate-covered berries, one at a time, and roll until covered with cocoa. Store in the refrigerator but bring to room temperature before serving. They should be eaten within two days.

Makes 40

Per truffle, using bittersweet chocolate and blackberries: 39 cal.; 1 g pro.; 5 g carb.; 2 g fat (2 sat..); 2 mg chol.; 2 mg sod.; 2 g fiber; 0 g sugar; 45 percent calories from fat.

GRAND MARNIER TRUFFLES

Don’t expect a version of rum balls when you make this recipe. These truffles are much smoother, and the flavor is far more subtle than a traditional rum ball. If Grand Marnier isn’t your favorite, you can substitute cognac or pure vanilla extract.

8 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped into small chunks

1⁄2 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons Grand Marnier liqueur

1⁄2 cup unsweetened cocoa

Place the chocolate in a metal bowl. Bring the cream to a boil in a small saucepan. Pour the cream over the chocolate and stir until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Stir in the Grand Marnier. Cover with plastic wrap and chill until firm, about three hours.

Sift the cocoa into a bowl. Use a measuring spoon to scoop up 1 teaspoon of chocolate. Roll the teaspoon of chocolate into a ball and drop it into the cocoa. Toss the chocolate in the cocoa until coated. Shake off excess. Chill until firm. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Makes 30

Per truffle: 57 cal.; 1 g pro.; 6 g carb.; 4 g fat (3 sat., 1 monounsat.); 5 mg chol.; 3 mg sod.; 1 g fiber; 5 g sugar; 55 percent calories from fat.