Bubbly that won’t fizzle

By KATHLEEN PURVIS

CHARLOTTE, N.C. — Just because some of the seasonal pop has fizzled this year doesn’t mean you’re not in the mood for something special. But in the middle of the holiday party season, we figured your wallet could use a break.

So we took a tasting tour through the bargains in sparkling wines.

With the help of wine writer Catherine Rabb and three of her beverage-minded colleagues at Johnson & Wales University in Charlotte, N.C. — Sarah Malik, Jennifer Gallagher and Kimberly Christensen — we tasted 10 bottles, all below $20.

The good news: There is respectable fizz out there for not much money. We even found a few contenders less than $10.

Before you shop, here’s Rabb’s advice:

If you want to save money, widen your search. France’s major houses may be out of reach, but there are several California-made sparkling wines associated with French winemakers, such as Mumm and Domaine Chandon.

Look in other countries. Spain’s cava is made by the traditional French method, just using different grapes. Another good target: Australia.

Color can be good. Sparkling ros s look festive without being too sweet.

Sweet isn’t bad. Our favorite was a vivid red dessert wine that would take a holiday dessert up a notch.

If a bargain bottle disappoints you, all isn’t lost. Break out the orange juice for mimosas, or add a drizzle of liquor for a champagne cocktail.

10 for under $20: Best to worst

1. Casa Sant’Orsola Bracchetto D’Aqui, Italy, $15.97.

The vivid, deep red color looks like a party in a glass. But it has real character. A deep aroma of roses, with tart flavors of pomegranate, strawberry and cranberry balancing the sweetness.

2. Mumm Cuvee M Brut, Napa Valley, $19.99.

Creamy bubbles, with a little of the biscuity, bready aroma you find in much more expensive bottles. Consistent, well-made, would be a great match with food. A real bargain.

3. Domaine Chandon Brut Classic, California, $15.97.

Even and balanced. Not as zingy as some of the others, but a good buy at this price.

4. Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Cava, Spain, $7.99.

A good example of a cava, fine for drinking straight or as a base for mimosas.

5. Gruet Nonvintage Brut, New Mexico, $11.99.

This wine has been gaining a reputation as a bargain for several years. The aroma is a little overpowering, but the taste is balanced, a little citrusy, with plenty of acidity. Another good one with food.

6. Yellowglen Pink, Southeast Australia, $7.99.

We all liked the light flavor and festive color, made from pinot noir and chardonnay. The taste has a little “pinky fruit,” like strawberry. Perfect for a girls’ night out holiday party.

7. Yellowglen Yellow, Southeast Australia, $7.99.

Creamy, with a nice finish. We didn’t like it as much as its pink sister, but it got a solid “not bad.”

8. Korbel Brut Rose, California, $11.99.

Zingy and a little acidic, but tasters were put off by a slightly bitter, lemon-lime sharpness and finish.

9. Barefoot Bubbly, California, $7.99.

Not a favorite. Sharp, sour. “Like a green Jolly Rancher,” one taster said. “A really weak green Jolly Rancher,” another added.

10. Rondel Cava Rosado, $7.99.

Earthy aroma, but not in a good way, more like fungus. Candied rather than fruity. There are much better cavas out there.

WATCH YOUR LANGUAGE

Finding your way around the label.

Champagne: Usually reserved only for wines from the Champagne region of France, although some areas, such as California, use the word lower case.

Sparkling wine: Wine with bubbles from any region besides Champagne.

Cava: Sparkling wine from northern Spain, usually made from macabeo, parellado and xarel-lo grapes, sometimes with chardonnay added.

Prosecco: A lightly sparkling wine from Italy, usually with a crisp, apple-like flavor.

Methode champ-enoise: The traditional method in the Champagne region, when yeast and sugar is added for a second fermentation inside the bottle. Also used for sparkling wines from other countries, such as Spain’s cava.

Brut: The dryest, or less sweet, form of sparkling wine.

Extra-dry: A little sweeter than brut.

Blanc de noirs: Pale pink, made from pinot noir or pinot meunier grapes.

Blanc de blancs: Delicate and light in color, made from chardonnay grapes.