It’s back to the meal-making grind as students return to classrooms


By KATHY MARTIN

McClatchy Tribune

SMART CHOICE: This year, it’s not just less-flexible schedules and fuller calendars that stand between the family cook and the evening meal. It’s the economy, too. Remember, ground meat is the all-time great budget stretcher. Ground sausage (and cayenne) add zing to this variation on a Southern standard, Hoppin’ John. Long-grain or parboiled white rice works, too. Just adjust the cooking time accordingly.

School is back in session at last — time for an annual spotlight on quick, weeknight dinners. This year, though, it’s not just less-flexible schedules and fuller calendars that stand between the family cook and the evening meal. It’s the economy.

With double-digit price increases for some staples and vastly higher prices at the gas pump, most of us are feeling a financial pinch as well as a time squeeze. And that limits our options. Frequent trips to the drive-through or phone orders for takeout food that might have been routine a year ago may not seem justifiable any longer. Neither may high-end frozen or store-prepped entrees.

That set me to thinking about one of the all-time great budget stretchers: ground meat. From picadillo to chili-mac, sloppy joes to stuffed cabbage, cooks around the world have long known how to turn a pound of ground meat into a tasty main dish. And by its quick-cooking nature, ground meat is a time-pressed cook’s friend.

But even a “pound of ground” isn’t super-cheap anymore, especially if you choose more healthful low-fat varieties. Ninety-percent lean ground beef (12 fat grams, 200 calories per 4-ounce serving) is $4.49 a pound at my supermarket. Ground chicken breast is $4.89.

Lean ground turkey (8 fat grams, 170 calories) — especially good with Asian flavors — is a relative bargain at $3.35. (Ground pork is versatile, and the price was right at $2.59, but there was no package information about fat content so I passed.)

It’s always a good idea to stock up and freeze extra when your favorite ground meats go on sale. And here’s another winning strategy: stretch a half-pound into a four-serving entree.

It’s easier than you might think, as evidenced by the family-pleasing recipes we’ve rounded up. In each case, vegetables, beans or grains make up the difference. It’s an approach you can apply to your own ground-meat favorites. Figure 1‚Ñ2 cup filler to replace 1‚Ñ2 pound cooked, crumbled meat. Lentils — quick-cooking and small enough to blend in — are one great choice. So is cooked bulgar or cracked wheat.

The bonus, of course, is that the substitutions make the dishes more nutritious. Most important at my house, the resident carnivores ate them up.

NO-BAKE TAMALE PIE

4 teaspoons canola oil, divided

1 small onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

8 ounces lean ground pork or beef

1 (15-ounce) can red or black beans, rinsed and drained

2 teaspoons chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 (16-ounce) jar medium-hot salsa (preferably low-sodium)

1 cup frozen corn kernels

1 (16-ounce) log cooked polenta, cut crosswise into 8 slices

1‚Ñ4 chopped cilantro (optional)

Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in a nonstick skillet on medium-high. Saut the onion a few minutes, until soft. Stir in the garlic and cook half a minute. Stir in the ground meat and cook, breaking it up with a spoon, until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Stir in the beans, chili powder and cumin, and turn down the heat a bit.

Heat the remaining 2 teaspoons oil in another skillet over medium-high. When hot, add the polenta. Saut until golden and heated through, turning once, about 5 minutes per side.

Meanwhile, stir the salsa and corn into the meat mixture, and simmer about 5 minutes. Stir in the cilantro. Serve in the pan or a deep-dish pie plate with the polenta slices arranged on top. Makes 4 servings.

LOADED TWICE-BAKED POTATOES

4 medium russet potatoes

8 ounces lean ground beef

1 cup frozen chopped broccoli

1‚Ñ2 teaspoon salt

1‚Ñ4 teaspoon fresh-ground pepper

1 cup reduced-fat grated Cheddar cheese

1‚Ñ2 cup reduced-fat sour cream

3 scallions, sliced

Pierce the potatoes all over with a fork and microwave at 50 percent power for 20 minutes, turning once, or until tender.

Meanwhile, cook the meat in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, crumbling it, until no longer pink, about 3 minutes. Stir in the frozen broccoli and cook, stirring a few times, until it’s tender and its liquid has evaporated, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the salt and pepper and set aside.

Carefully cut the top third off of the potatoes (save for another use). Scoop the insides into a large bowl, and place the potato shells in a small baking dish. Add 1‚Ñ2 Cheddar and the sour cream to the bowl with the potato insides and mash well. Stir in the scallions and the meat mixture.

Divide the mixture among the potato shells, and top with the remaining 1‚Ñ2 cup Cheddar. Microwave on high until the filling is hot and the cheese melted, 2 to 4 minutes. Makes 4 servings.

ASIAN TURKEY WRAPS

8 (8-inch) flour tortillas (preferably whole grain)

Cooking oil spray

8 ounces lean ground turkey, chicken or pork

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger (jarred is fine)

11‚Ñ2 cups shredded carrot (3 medium carrots)

2 cups shredded cabbage (or packaged coleslaw mix)

1‚Ñ2 pound sliced baby bella or white mushrooms

4 green onions, trimmed and thinly sliced

1 tablespoon reduced-sodium soy sauce

2 tablespoons hoisin sauce

2 or 3 tablespoons bottled plum sauce

Wrap tortillas tightly in foil and place in a 350-degree oven (or toaster oven) to warm and soften.

Meanwhile, spray a large nonstick skillet with oil and cook the turkey and ginger over medium-high heat, stirring to crumble the meat, until it’s no longer pink, about 3 minutes. Stir in the carrot, cabbage and mushrooms. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened and the mushroom liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Stir in the onion and soy and hoisin sauces, mixing well. Remove from heat.

Place the warm tortillas on a work surface; brush with plum sauce. Divide the turkey mixture among them. Fold in 2 sides on each and roll up burrito-style. Makes 4 servings (2 wraps each).

SHORTCUT COTTAGE PIE

Cooking oil spray

2 cups finely chopped onion (frozen is fine)

1 to 1 1‚Ñ2 cups finely chopped carrots (2 large)

1 garlic clove, minced

1 teaspoon poultry seasoning (or 1‚Ñ2 teaspoon each dried sage and thyme)

1‚Ñ2 pound lean ground beef or turkey

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons tomato paste

1 cup low-sodium beef broth

1 (10-ounce) package frozen peas

1 (24-ounce) package refrigerated mashed potatoes

2 eggs, beaten

Heat the oven to 375 degrees.

Spray a nonstick skillet with oil and place over medium heat. Saut the onion and carrot 5 minutes, until onion is soft. Stir in the garlic and seasoning; cook another minute, until fragrant. Add the ground meat and cook, stirring often, until crumbled and no longer pink, about 5 minutes.

Sprinkle on the flour and cook, stirring, until absorbed. Stir in the tomato paste and broth; cook, stirring, a few minutes, until slightly thickened. Stir in the peas and transfer to an 8-inch square baking dish.

Put the potatoes in a bowl (or, to minimize dirty dishes, the skillet). Use a fork to beat in the eggs, mixing well. Spoon onto the meat mixture and spread evenly, making sure the potatoes touch all sides of the pan. Bake 45 minutes, until the top is puffed and lightly browned. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

HOPPED UP HOPPIN’ JOHN

Cooking oil spray

8 ounces lean, ground, Italian-style turkey sausage (preferably hot)

2 (10-ounce) bags frozen seasoning blend (chopped onion, bell pepper and celery)

2 medium carrots, chopped (1 cup)

2 garlic cloves, minced

1‚Ñ2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled

1‚Ñ2 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled

1 (14- to 16-ounce) can black-eyed peas, drained

1‚Ñ8 to 1‚Ñ4 teaspoon cayenne

1 cup quick-cooking brown rice

2 cups low-sodium chicken broth or water

Spray a 4-quart pan with oil and heat over medium. Add the sausage, seasoning blend and carrots. Cook, stirring often, 5 to 10 minutes, until sausage is crumbled and no longer pink, vegetables have softened and liquid has evaporated. Sprinkle on the garlic, rosemary and thyme and cook, stirring, about a minute, until fragrant.

Stir in the black-eyed peas, cayenne, rice and broth. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook, covered, about 10 minutes, until rice is done. Makes 4 servings.

GREEK MEAT AND SPINACH CASSEROLE (Easy Pastitsio)

Cooking oil spray

1‚Ñ2 pound lean ground beef

2 medium onions, chopped

1 (10-ounce) box frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry

1 (141‚Ñ2-ounce) can diced tomatoes

1‚Ñ4 teaspoon nutmeg

1‚Ñ4 teaspoon cinnamon

Freshly ground pepper to taste

1 cup whole-grain elbow macaroni or ziti, cooked and drained

1 (12-ounce) can fat-free evaporated milk

2 large eggs

2 egg whites

1‚Ñ3 cup crumbled feta cheese

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Spray a 2-quart baking dish with oil.

Spray a nonstick skillet with oil and heat over medium. Cook the meat and onions, stirring to crumble the beef, until it’s no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Stir in the spinach, tomatoes, nutmeg, cinnamon and pepper; heat through. Transfer to the baking dish.

In a saucepan, heat the milk over medium-high until steaming but not boiling. Whisk together the eggs and egg whites, then slowly whisk them into the hot milk until blended and frothy. Pour over the beef mixture, sprinkle with cheese and bake about 45 minutes, until golden. Makes 4 to 6 servings.