In Watkins Glen, surprises abound

By REBECCA SLOAN

VINDICATOR CORRESPONDENT

WATKINS GLEN, N.Y. — The Finger Lakes region of west-central New York unfolds like a Monet landscape in muted shades of blue and green.

Winding, sapphire waterways mirror sloping, emerald mountains and rolling hills of sunny vineyards make a patchwork quilt with quaint white churches and weathered red barns.

Amid the pastoral splendor glimmer brave splashes of modern glitz.

Sprawling casinos, auto and equine racetracks, ski resorts and wineries abound but fail to dominate the area’s unspoiled charm.

And there truly is something pure and unfettered about this land — this land of rushing streams, soaring cliffs and plunging waterfalls that’s home to the Seneca Nation of Indians.

It’s a region rich in history and rife with untamed natural beauty.

A shining jewel in this crown of natural beauty is Watkins Glen State Park, located in Schuyler County on the southern tip of Seneca Lake, the second largest of the Finger Lakes.

Watkins Glen is the most well-known of the Finger Lakes state parks, and with good reason. The one-and-a-half-mile hike along the park’s infamous Gorge Trail is truly breathtaking.

The paved trail, which includes more than 800 stone steps, snakes steadily upward through the narrow gorge past cascading waterfalls, deep, rippling pools and jutting cliffs.

What you’ll find

At one juncture, the path actually passes behind and beneath a waterfall, and hikers find themselves peering through a shimmering veil of tumbling deluge.

The icy water is close enough to cup with your hand but far enough to keep your head dry.

This is just one of Gorge Trail’s delightful surprises.

With every bend, a new marvel comes into view. Hikers will find themselves crossing high arched bridges and cutting through shadowy tunnels in the thick walls of rock.

The soothing gurgle of rushing water is never far away, and even on a warm day, the mostly shaded path feels as damp and cool as a breath from the depths of Mother Earth.

Although the landscape can be treacherous, Gorge Trail has been carefully constructed with safety in mind.

The stone steps and smooth pavement are flanked entirely by a sturdy wall. Thus, you don’t have to be a seasoned hiker or daredevil outdoorsy-type to tackle the trail. In fact, if you’re seeking a rugged challenge, this trail isn’t for you.

Holding tight to Mom or Dad’s hand, even a 2-year-old can climb it, although with more than 800 steps, it’s best to leave the stroller in the car.

For those who wish to forgo the mile-and-a-half climb, there’s a shuttle bus that transports tourists to the top of the gorge so they may walk down the trail instead of up it.

This downhill hike is less strenuous but just as beautiful.

Glaciers are responsible for the breathtaking beauty of Watkins Glen Gorge. A million years ago, grinding glacial activity created steep hillsides and flowing rivers that eroded the soft sedimentary rock. Thousands of years of steady-moving currents have carved the park’s deep gorge and 19 waterfalls.

Finger Lakes

Glaciers moving through west-central New York’s shallow river valleys also formed the 11 Finger Lakes.

The larger lakes are Canandaigua, Cayuga, Owasco, Keuka, Seneca, Skaneateles; the smaller lakes are Canadice, Conesus, Hemlock, Honeoye and Otisco.

The lakes range in size from 11 to 40 miles and offer more than 650 miles of shoreline.

The tongue-twister names reflect the area’s rich American Indian heritage, and Indian lore insists the lakes were formed when God reached down and made a handprint in the earth.

Portions of that handprint are strikingly deep.

At 618 feet, for example, Seneca Lake is the deepest of the Finger Lakes and has frozen over only nine times since the start of weather record-keeping.

It is also the widest of the Finger Lakes, and its shores are home to 32 wineries — the highest number on any of the lakes.

At least four of these wineries are in the town of Watkins Glen.

The Watkins Glen Gorge Trail is open from mid-May to October, depending on the weather.

Flooding or other dangerous conditions can cause the trail to close at any time, so it’s best to call ahead.

There’s more

Of course, Watkins Glen State Park offers more than just a hike through its gorgeous gorge.

Camping is tremendously popular at the park, and in 2005 Watkins Glen was selected as one of the 100 top campgrounds in America.

Tent or trailer sites and picnic facilities are available from May through mid-October, weather permitting.

The park also offers swimming in an Olympic-sized pool or in nearby Seneca Lake as well as biking, hunting, cross country skiing and fishing.

Seneca Lake has a reputation as an excellent fishing spot, and nearby Catherine Creek, which winds through the town of Watkins Glen, is renowned for its spring run of rainbow trout.

Boating is also popular at Seneca Lake, and nearby Sampson State Park in Romulus offers top-notch marinas.

If the idea of a dinner cruise appeals to you, Captain Bill’s Seneca Lake Cruises in Watkins Glen advertises “elegant dining afloat.”

Also in the area

There are numerous other state parks near Watkins Glen that also boast plunging waterfalls and spectacular rock formations.

Buttermilk Falls State Park, near Ithaca, was named for the foaming cascade formed by Buttermilk Creek as it flows down the steep valley toward Cayuga Lake.

Taughannock Falls State Park in Ulysses has one of the highest waterfalls east of the Rocky Mountains, and Robert H. Treman State Park, also near Ithaca, features a breathtaking gorge called Enfield Glen that includes 12 waterfalls, among them the unforgettable 115-foot Lucifer Falls.

And if you love NASCAR, then you probably already know about Watkins Glen International, a racetrack near the southern tip of Seneca Lake. This track hosts the NASCAR Nextel Cup Centurion Boats at the Glen and the NASCAR Busch Series Zippo 200. For 20 years the track was home to the American Grand Prix.

XFor more information on the Finger Lakes Region, visit www.fingerlakes.org or call (800) 548-4386. For more information on Watkins Glen, call (607) 535-4511.