Salmon lovers, rejoice

By LINDA GASSENHEIMER
KNIGHT RIDDER NEWSPAPERS
It's a luxury to savor wild salmon this time of year. The season began May 1 and runs through August. On a recent trip to Seattle, I had a chance to taste really fresh salmon at the world famous Pike's Market.
As Thierry Rautureau, chef-owner of Rover's Restaurant, told me, "With salmon like this you don't need to do much to it."
I've adapted his recipe here.
Olive tapenade is a paste made from olives, garlic, olive oil and herbs. The chef makes his own, but there are many good varieties in the market.
The fish is cooked on a grill with a lid. If you don't have one, I've given broiler directions.
Roasted potatoes and asparagus complete this spring meal, which contains 481 calories per serving with 33 percent of calories from fat.
WINE
Wine suggestion: This is one of those "red wine with fish" moments; I'd use a pinot noir.
HELPFUL HINTS
If fresh is unavailable, good quality wild salmon can be found in the frozen-food case at many markets. Farmed salmon may also be used.
COUNTDOWN
Heat grill or broiler.
Start potatoes.
Start salmon.
Add asparagus.
Finish salmon.
SHOPPING LIST
To buy: 12 ounces salmon fillet, 1 jar olive tapenade, 3/4 pound potatoes, 1 pound asparagus, olive oil spray.
Staples: Olive oil, salt, black peppercorns.
WILD SALMON WITH OLIVE TAPENADE
To prepare the fish indoors, place an empty baking tray about 6 inches from the broiler while you preheat it. When hot, place salmon on the tray and broil 8 minutes. Remove fish, spread tapenade on top and broil 1 more minute.
1 (12-ounce) skin-on salmon fillet, about 1 inch thick
1 tablespoon olive tapenade
Heat the grill until it is very hot. Then, with a charcoal grill, move the hot coals to the side; with gas, turn off the burners.
Spread the tapenade over the salmon and place skin-side down on the grill grates. Close the lid and cook 8 minutes. Test by making a small cut in the thickest part; the flesh should be opaque, not translucent. Slide a wide spatula between the meat and skin, remove the meat and divide between 2 plates.
Per serving: 258 calories (44 percent from fat), 12.6 g fat (1.9 g saturated, 4.8 g monounsaturated), 96 mg cholesterol, 33.9 g protein, 0.5 g carbohydrates, 0 fiber, 88 mg sodium.
ROASTED POTATOES AND ASPARAGUS
Olive oil spray
3/4 pound potatoes, scrubbed but unpeeled
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 pound asparagus, trimmed
1/2 tablespoon olive oil
Heat broiler. Line a baking tray with foil and spray with olive oil. Cut potatoes into 1/2-inch cubes, place on tray and spray with oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place about 6 inches from the broiler for 5 minutes.
Turn potatoes and add asparagus; spray with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Broil 10 more minutes or until potatoes are soft. Toss potatoes with olive oil. Makes 2 servings.
Per serving: 223 calories (21 percent from fat), 5.3 g fat (0.8 g saturated, 2.5 g monounsaturated), 0 cholesterol, 8.6 g protein, 39.5 g carbohydrates, 6.9 g fiber, 8 mg sodium.