Summer styles no longer over-accessorized

The feel and drape of fabric highlight women's summer styles.
SCRIPPS HOWARD
Aside from affordable luxury and color palettes dominated by neutrals, men's and women's fashions this summer have another significant commonality: Easy elegance is replacing self-deprecating sloppiness among men and combine-every-trend, over-accessorized tackiness among women.
The results -- pleasing to the eye and not necessarily hard on the wallet -- are pared-down, attractive looks that blend nostalgia and modernity for a new, upbeat aesthetic.
For the first time in several years, summer womenswear is more about textures and details than anything else. Looks are neither boring nor minimal. Designers simply are focusing more on the feel and drape of clothes rather than bold colors and wild patterns to evoke a response.
The trend is toward a more muted, toned-down palette than last summer. Pink is still around, but dusty cameo pink replaces fuchsia. Teal takes a back seat to robin's egg blue, hot orange morphs into melon and grass cedes ground to a watery lily green.
"Designers have taken a deep breath for summer," observed Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute, which names colors and tracks color trends in fashion and home decor. "After several seasons of color, color, color, it's time to relax a little. We see this relaxation in the prevalence of blues, neutrals and the classicism of black and white."
Dominant colors
Black and white, in fact, have emerged as the dominant "colors" of the season, especially combining for evenings. Black is in lace trim and overlays, as well as cocktail dresses and gowns featuring subtle design twists that make them special. White shows up in a variety of shades in crisp tops, denim pants and easy sundresses and skirts.
Bill Blass designer Michael Vollbracht insists that the little black dress is a wardrobe requisite for summer evenings while Michael Kors, Proenza Schouler, Douglas Hannant and Esteban Cortazar swear by romantic white dresses for day. White gets the edge with its own rainbow: ivory, chalk, buttercream, lily, pearl, cream, eggshell, ecru, antique and vintage whites and a blinding shade in Yeohlee's collection that she described as "solar white."
White in any shade is the perfect marriage with the eyelets many designers have incorporated in tank tops, skirts, halters and jackets. Eyelet pieces give a visual pop and are cool, lightweight and girly, making them perfect for summer.
Perfect pairing4
Pleats are all over skirts and even some evening gowns this season. Tulip, bubble, trumpet and pencil skirts lend variety to silhouettes; wide-legged slacks are updated from the '70s; and bottoms of every type are paired with fancy slip-like tops, flirty bohemian blouses and prim cardigan sweaters with wide belts that can be cinched to accentuate the waist.
For women who eschew pleats, ruching and other high-maintenance details, a crushed or crinkled fabric provides interesting texture and a comfy, broken-in feel. Silk, satin and cotton fabrics lend themselves best to the technique, which designers such as Chaiken and Anna Sui have used liberally in, among other pieces, shirt dresses and metallic bustle gowns.
While you're certain to see the latest styles on celebrities, many designers claim they created this year's collections with ordinary women in mind.
"Celebrities are a way to get the brand beyond our circles," said Alvin Valley. "However, I focus on designing for the real women who buy my clothes."