Wedges hit the streets with form and function



This season's trendiest shapes are sure to put a little spring in your step.
NEW YORK (AP) -- Comfort has entered the consciousness of the fashion world that offered a steady stream of pointy-toe stilettos for several years. Last summer women rebelled, wearing flip-flops for nearly every occasion.
So, what was on the runways that will soon be on the sidewalks? Wedge heels, ballet flats, peep-toes and spectators.
The new shoe shapes "are getting to be interesting," says Richard Olicker, president of wholesale for Kenneth Cole Productions. "There's chunky shoes and there's platform shoes. That's a trend that's coming at us in many variations -- cork, raffia, straw -- with footbeds placed on top of them."
Platform is a compromise between form and function, Olicker adds. "Platforms give you height without necessarily taking a comfort penalty. You're not increasing the pitch as much as a single-sole stiletto pump. ... The fashion benefit is height and sexiness."
A cork-heel style and a floral-pattern wedge are emerging as top sellers of the season, he reports, not coincidentally because they're complementary to the artsy, handicraft trend of spring's clothes. Two-tone spectators go with nautical looks and black-and-white graphic prints, and peep-toes are feminine yet professional.
Ballet flats, always a popular option, are even more so this year. "Maybe they (ballet flats) are getting last year's flip-flop customer," says Olicker. "They're easy to wear, take color well, but they are a little prettier than flip-flops, and they're acceptable for more places."
The sweet, girlie silhouette lends itself to capri pants and longer, flowing skirts.
A favorite style
Espadrilles, another favorite summer style, also is having a banner year, reports Lori Sternthal, marketing manager for Aldo. It's a natural match for Bermuda shorts, short shorts and babydoll dresses, she says.
Soft colors are the best sellers, with white the strongest of all, Sternthal says. White espadrilles are easier to wear than most other white shoes -- which can run the risk of looking too much like a nurse's shoe -- because of the jute heel and sole. "An all-white shoe is pretty hard to pull off, but an espadrille is white mixed with natural. It's totally neutral," she says.
Step into holiday mood
Also, strappy sandals that crisscross up the calf are doing well, probably because they can elongate the look of the wearer's leg even if the shoe is flat, Sternthal says. The most popular shoe silhouette for this look is a metallic thong. "It's easy. It's the thought of being barefoot. It reminds you of being on holiday," she adds.
And it looks good with white clothing, a must-have for the style-conscious set.
"The story that's really standing out is the Mediterranean resort story," according to Sternthal. "It's strong at a fashion level and footwear is the accessory to all these fashion trends."
"If we're doing our job, we're working with the apparel trends. While shoes are important, we have to match; we're still an accessory," agrees Kenneth Cole's Olicker.
Accessory, yes. Afterthought, no.
Meghan Cleary, author of "The Perfect Fit: What Your Shoes Say About You" (Chronicle), says the footwear industry has enjoyed years of growth -- and that it shows no signs of stopping.
"There's a huge trend toward comfort. Women are seeking a cute shoe that is comfortable, and they're willing to try different styles and silhouettes. The wedge gives the height but also more stability. If the wedge has a round toe, you're done -- you're accomplishing it all," Cleary says, noting that comfort-conscious brands Naturalizer, Aerosoles and Easy Spirit have all moved more fashion-forward.
However, there still is a place for the classic, black, pointy-toe stiletto. "It will always be one of the foundational shoes you need in your closet," she says. "The pointy-toe is slimming and the heel can take off another 10 pounds."
But Cleary says the wedge also is very versatile. "I love it with an ankle strap and a full skirt. It can be sporty, it can be sassy." But, she warns, it's hard to dress up for a formal occasion. Stick to a fun or festive look, she suggests.