Cheesesteak. Just Cheesesteak

PHILADELPHIA (AP) -- Bistec con queso? Not at Geno's Steaks.
An English-only ordering policy has thrust one of Philadelphia's most famous cheesesteak joints into the national immigration debate.
Located in a diverse South Philadelphia immigrant neighborhood, Geno's and its chief rival, Pat's King of Steaks, form the epicenter of an area described as "ground zero for cheesesteaks."
But by posting small signs telling customers "This Is AMERICA: WHEN ORDERING 'SPEAK ENGLISH'," Geno's owner Joseph Vento has drawn his restaurant into a political storm.
"They don't know how lucky they are. All we're asking them to do is learn the English language," said Vento, 66. "We're out to help these people, but they've got to help themselves, too."
Vento, whose grandparents struggled to learn English after immigrating from Sicily in the 1920s, said he posted the sign about six months ago amid concerns over immigration reform and the increasing number of customers who could not order in English.
Philadelphians are known for their sloppy English -- sometimes it seems more people say "youse" than "you" -- but they take their cheesesteak ordering seriously. Pat's even has a sign instructing customers how to properly shorthand their order, earning it comparisons to the Soup Nazi on "Seinfeld." Ask for a "Whiz with" and you get fried steak, sliced or chopped, in a long roll topped with Cheese Whiz and fried onions.
Community
The traditionally Italian community near Geno's has become more diverse over the decades. Immigrants from Asia and Latin America have moved in, mixing in among longtime residents and young professionals seeking more reasonably priced row houses. In the last 10 years, an estimated 15,000 to 20,000 Mexican immigrants -- many of them here illegally, community leaders say -- have settled in South Philly.
Vento said his staff are glad to help non-native speakers order in English and have never turned one away because of a language barrier.
Hurt feelings
But his policy is irking some groups.
"It's really upset a lot of a people," said Brad Baldia, director of development and outreach for Day Without An Immigrant, a coalition of immigrant groups. "For some people, I think we're just going to say 'Le gusta Pat's.'"
Juntos, a neighborhood organization that advocates for Latino communities, said it plans to send people to Geno's to try to order in Spanish. Depending on what happens, the group may pursue court action, said Peter Bloom, the group's director.
"His grandparents encountered the same racism and the same xenophobia," Bloom said. "Why would he begin that process over again?"
For his part, Vento said he's gotten plenty of criticism and threats: One person told him they hoped one of his many neon signs flames out and burns the place down. But he said he plans to hold his ground, even if he loses business: "I'll take the gamble."
Customers placing orders on a recent morning seemed unfazed.
Angelica Marquez, 22, of Philadelphia, is originally from Puerto Rico. She ordered in well-spoken English, but said some of her relatives struggle with the language.
"They always come and just say 'cheesesteak,'" Marquez said, adding that the policy "bothers her some" but not enough to keep her away.
When a non-English speaking customer showed up at the window a short time later, a clerk patiently coached him through the process. Eventually, they both said "cheesesteak."
Vento, a short, fiery man with a ninth-grade education, arms covered in tattoos and a large diamond ring in his ear, is no stranger to political controversy.
He sells "freedom fries" to protest France's opposition to the Iraq war. He rails against Mumia Abu-Jamal, the black man convicted of killing police Officer Daniel Faulkner in 1981 who is a cause celebre of some death penalty opponents. Memorials to Faulkner are posted at his shop.
City's response
Those who market the city, often using images of Geno's and other famous steak shops, say they are treading carefully.
"I certainly wouldn't want a national audience to think it represented all of the wonderful cheesesteak makers in the whole city," said Meryl Levitz, president and CEO of the Greater Philadelphia Tourism Marketing Corp. "This isn't representative of the Philadelphia attitude."
There are plenty of other places for people to get a cheesesteak if they don't agree with Vento, Levitz said, adding that her group would keep an eye on the uproar as it decides whether to use Geno's as part of future advertising campaigns.
Competitors are seizing on the controversy, too.
Tony Luke's issued a statement saying its shops welcome all customers "whether or not they speak a 'wit' of English."
And a manager at Pat's said the shop welcomes people of all tongues.
"That's the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard in my life," Kathy Smith said of the English-only policy. "I'd rather listen to the Spanish than the foul language of the college students."
But Vento said his business will be fine. He adds a simple explanation for the recent negative vibe against him.
"I think they miss T.O. in this city," he said of the former Philidelphia Eagles troubled and outspoken receiver Terrell Owens. "They've got Joey Vento now."
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