By CATHY THOMAS

By CATHY THOMAS
KNIGHT RIDDER NEWSPAPERS
SANTA ANA, Calif. - Tequila's scent is unmistakable. The aroma is floral-sweet, sometimes edged with a subtle hint of vanilla. Occasionally I catch a whisper of wet pine needles or even bittersweet chocolate. Maybe a little lime peel.
But open a bottle, and more than anything else, I smell a party. I've lived most of my life in close-to-the-border Southern California, where tequila and festive backyard gatherings go hand in hand.
Its party-cocktail value is hard to dispute, but over the years I've grown to appreciate the subtleties it brings to dishes as an ingredient. From dips to desserts, soups to salads, a slug of tequila imparts a welcome spark.
When using it in dishes, I generally use either silver or reposado tequila. Silver or plata (also called white or blanco) is bottled less than 60 days after distillation. Reposado ( & quot;rested & quot;) is aged up to one year and is smoother than silver, with more finesse.
With either style, I look for those that say & quot;100 percent agave & quot; on the label (tequila is made from agave, a member of the lily family, NOT a cactus). One hundred percent, all-agave tequilas have a richer, deeper flavor. Others can add as much as 49 percent sugar or corn syrup.
Use the right bottle
Most often I use Jose Cuervo Tradicional, Herradura Silver or Cazadores Reposado. I save anejo or muy anejo tequilas for judicious sipping, most often from a brandy snifter. Anejo is aged at least one year and up to four. Sometimes it's labeled muy anejo when aged more than two years.
Note that only reposado and anejo styles have a natural golden hue that comes from aging. Tequila labeled & quot;gold & quot; is silver tequila with caramel coloring added.
TEN WAYS TO USE TEQUILA IN EASY-TO-MAKE DISHES:
1. Party pineapple: Peel fresh pineapple, removing & quot;eyes & quot; and leaves. Cut in half lengthwise and pierce at 1-inch intervals with bamboo skewer. In 9-by-13-inch baking dish, combine 3 tablespoons each of tequila, fresh lime juice and sugar. Stir to dissolve sugar. Add pineapple, flat side down, and spoon tequila mixture over fruit. Bake in 425 degree oven until lightly caramelized, about 40 minutes, basting with pan juices every 15 minutes. Cut in half or fourths lengthwise and serve with juices - either as a dessert with ice cream (or see No. 3 - tequila whip), or top with chopped cilantro and use as an accompaniment to roast pork.
2. Miracle Margarita Flan Cake: This dessert combines the creamy allure of caramel flan with a tequila-scented butter cake. The Bundt pan is layered with caramel ice cream topping from a jar, a cake batter made from a mix (augmented with lime zest and tequila) and a three-egg custard mixture. As it bakes (here's where the miracle comes in), the custard rises to the top, creating a flan atop the fine-crumbed cake (see recipe).
3. Tequila whip: Augment whipped cream with a little tequila for a luscious accompaniment to fruit-based desserts. Whip heavy whipping cream with powdered sugar until soft peaks form. Add tequila to taste, about 2 teaspoons for 1 cup of cream. Whip just until stiff.
4. Savvy salsa: In a nonreactive bowl such as glass or ceramic, combine 1/2 cup finely chopped red onion; 2 cups chopped tomatoes; 1 large (or 2 small) diced peeled, pitted avocado(s); 1/4 cup minced cilantro; 1 fresh jalapeno chili (seeded and minced - use caution when working with fresh chilies; do not touch face or eyes); 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice; splash orange liqueur; and 1 tablespoon tequila. Gently toss and add salt to taste. Cover; chill 1 hour. Serve with tortilla chips or spoon over grilled fish or chicken.
5. Tequila-spiked salad dressing: Incredible served with salad made with mixed greens, sliced avocados and crumbled cotija cheese, this vinaigrette relies on tequila and tomatillos for its vibrant taste. Combine 1/2 cup tequila, 1/4 cup white wine vinegar and 1/4 cup minced red onion in small saucepan. Boil on high heat until reduced in volume by half. Stir in 1/4 cup tomatillo salsa (salsa verde), 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil and garlic salt to taste. Cool. If desired, add 2 tablespoons minced cilantro or Italian parsley. Chill.
6. Tequila Tri-Tip With Teardrop Relish: Tequila combined with herbs and spices makes a flavorful meat marinade. Use it to marinate tri-tip beef roasts, then grill. Serve with a colorful relish made with teardrop tomatoes, canned mild green chilies and a tasty vinaigrette (see recipe).
7. Gazpacho gusto: For appetizer portions, ladle your favorite gazpacho into chilled shot glasses or cordial glasses. Drizzle with a little tequila and garnish with whole (shelled) grilled shrimp.
8. Tequila-flamed mangoes: Many chefs love to use tequila to flambe dishes (such as shell-on shrimp entrees or fruit desserts). I love cookbook author Rick Bayless' version of tequila-flamed mangoes. To make it, place 4 tablespoons butter in a 9-by- 13-inch baking pan and place in 350 degree oven to melt. Add 5 cups of fresh peeled mangoes (cut into 1/2-inch wedges -- to see video of how to seed and cut mango, go to www.ocregister.com/food). Sprinkle with 1/2 cup packed brown sugar and toss. Bake 45 minutes. Just before serving, pour 1/4 cup tequila (tequila silver is fine here) into small saucepan and set over low heat -- don't let it simmer. Sprinkle mangoes with 3 tablespoons sugar and pour hot tequila over mangoes. Hold face (and hair) away from dish and light tequila with long match. Use potholder to shake pan back and forth. When flames subside, serve with whipped cream, ice cream or full-fat yogurt.
9. Raspberry-tequila sauce served with petite cheesecakes: It's easy to make a quick raspberry-tequila sauce. Defrost a 10-ounce tub of frozen raspberries in syrup. Process until pureed in food processor fitted with metal blade. Strain through a medium-fine sieve and add 1 tablespoon tequila. Stir and taste, adding more tequila if desired. Serve over cake, rice pudding, custard or cheesecake (see recipe for Petite Coconut Cheesecakes).
10. Sangrita siders: OK, maybe this isn't a dish, per se, but these spicy-sweet chasers are so good, they taste like an appetizer. Sangrita is served in a small glass next to a shot of aged tequila (such as Herradura Anejo or Cuevo 1800). To make it, combine (in a pitcher) 2/3 cup tomato-based vegetable juice such as V-8, 1/3 cup orange juice, 1 tablespoon grenadine, 1/4 cup fresh lime juice, 1/2 teaspoon hot sauce (such as Tabasco), dash Worcestershire sauce and salt to taste. Stir and chill, well-sealed. Accompany tequila and sangrita with lime wedges.
TEQUILA TRI-TIP WITH TEARDROP RELISH
Yield:10 to 12 servings
For roast:
1/2 cup fresh lime juice
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 cup olive oil
1/3 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup tequila
7 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 teaspoons grated lime peel (zest), colored part only
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 (2-pound) beef tri-tip roasts, trimmed
For relish:
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 (4-ounce) can diced mild green chilies
2 green onions, trimmed, sliced (include half of dark green stalks)
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons minced cilantro or Italian parsley
1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 cups small teardrop tomatoes, halved, or a combination of teardrop and cherry tomatoes
Salt and pepper to taste
Prepare roast: Place lime juice, cilantro, olive oil, soy, tequila, garlic, lime peel, cumin, oregano and pepper in large zipper-style bag. Add meat and seal. Refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight, turning bag occasionally.
Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat). Remove meat from marinade and discard marinade. Grill to desired degree of doneness, about 10-15 minutes per side for medium rare, to internal temperature of 140 degrees; cooking times vary. Transfer to cutting board and let stand 10 minutes before slicing diagonally across grain.
Meanwhile, prepare relish: In medium bowl, whisk vinegar, chilies and green onions; whisk in oil in thin stream. Add cilantro or parsley, oregano, tomatoes, salt and pepper.
Arrange meat on serving platter. Spoon relish over meat and serve.
MIRACLE MARGARITA FLAN CAKE
Yield: 14 to 16 servings
1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
1 (12-ounce) can evaporated milk
3eggs
3 tablespoons orange liqueur, such as Grand Marnier
1 teaspoon very finely grated orange peel (zest), colored part only
Vegetable oil cooking spray
1/2 cup caramel ice cream topping; see cook's notes
1 (18.25-ounce) box butter recipe cake mix, such as Duncan Hines Moist Deluxe Butter Recipe
Golden cake mix
Ingredients listed on cake mix package, substituting 1/2 cup tequila for part of water
1 teaspoon very finely grated lime peel (zest), colored part only
1 cup sweetened flaked coconut; optional, see cook's notes
Cook's notes: Cajeta, a caramel sauce made with goat milk, can be substituted for caramel ice cream topping. Cajeta is sold in Latin American markets. If you like coconut, it makes a nice addition to this cake.
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In large bowl, whisk sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk, 3 eggs, orange liqueur and orange zest. Set aside.
Generously spray 12-cup Bundt pan with spray. Pour caramel sauce in bottom of pan. Set aside.
Prepare cake mix according to package directions, substituting 1/2 cup tequila for 1/2 cup of required water and adding lime zest. If using, fold coconut into batter. Pour batter on top of caramel in pan. Stir milk mixture and gradually pour over cake batter (milk mixture will sink and batter will rise).
Bake 45 to 50 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Let cool in pan on wire rack 15 minutes. Unmold onto serving plate. Let cool completely.
PETITE COCONUT CHEESECAKES
Yield: 4 servings
1 tablespoon butter, room temperature, for greasing cups
1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 cup sugar
1 large egg
1/4 cup sweetened flaked coconut, plus 1/4 cup for garnish (optional); see cook's notes
For serving: Raspberry-tequila sauce; see tip No. 9
Cook's notes: To toast flaked coconut for optional garnish, place in pie pan or baking sheet and place in 325 degree oven about 5 minutes or until lightly browned. Cool.
Grease 4 (1/2-cup) custard cups generously with butter; set aside. Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
Place cream cheese in bowl of electric mixer. Using paddle attachment, beat until creamy. Add sugar and egg and beat until smooth, about 1 minute. Add 1/4 cup flaked coconut and beat until combined. Spoon into prepared custard cups. Place 1 inch of very hot water in 9-inch square baking pan. Place cups in pan. Place in middle of preheated oven 35 minutes, or until set.
Remove from oven and let partially cool, about 20 minutes. Run blade of thin knife around edge of each cheesecake. Invert on individual dessert plates. Serve warm topped with raspberry-tequila sauce (see tip No. 9), or cover and chill up to 2 days and serve cold topped with sauce. If desired, garnish with toasted coconut.