It's about time to bring on the bubbly

Champagnes to tickle everyone's fancy are available in many price ranges.
By Fred Tasker
Knight Ridder Newspapers
Here's a nice thought: Champagne, the beverage of celebration that brings so many smiles around the New Year, is created by a complex process that begins in the vineyard and ends, very appropriately, with a smile.
The face displaying that smile belongs to Regis Camus, winemaker for Champagne Charles Heidsieck and Champagne Piper-Heidsieck in the chilly Champagne region 100 miles northeast of Paris.
After all the vines are harvested, all the grapes fermented and aged, the final process is the blending of dozens, even hundreds of lots into a single, final champagne. It's done at Camus' chateau by a tasting process with him and a team of six assistants.
When a blend teeters at the edge of acceptance, Camus says he falls silent.
"If I make the first call, everyone will follow me. So I just look for a smile on their faces. Collegiality is the secret to fine champagne," Camus says. "And conviviality."
A charming conceit, if nothing else. And something nice to think about when you're sipping bubbly this season. To that end, here are some of the best I've tasted this year.
FRANCE
Highly Recommended
1995 Taittinger Brut Blanc de Blancs "Comptes de Champagne," Reims: feather-light, with intense orange rind, toast, cream, kiwi flavors and endless tart finish; $140.
1995 "S" Salon Brut Blanc de Blancs, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger: rich and complex, with toasted nuts, vanilla, minerals, lime rind finish; $225.
1992 Krug Brut Blanc de Blancs, Clos du Mesnil, Reims: beer and nuts, sherry and toast, rich, malty, heady, full-bodied, endless sweet-tart finish; $400.
1997 Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs, Mereuil-sur-Ay: orange Creamsicle and bread dough, sweet sherry, with candied fruit finish; $125.
Multivintage Laurent-Perrier "La Cuvee" Grand Siecle, Tours-sur-Marne: nuts, golden apples, white peaches, rich and maturing; $80.
1999 Louis Roederer Brut Cristal, Reims: white flowers and mint, kiwi and minerals, powerful fruit; $185.
1998 Moet Chandon Dom Perignon, Epernay: smoke and toast, frothy lemon meringue, liqueur-like finish; $175.
1998 Perrier Jouet Brut "Fleur de Champagne," Epernay: toasted nuts, peaches, beer, malt and sherry; rich fruity finish; $130.
1996 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut "La Grande Dame," Reims: toast, cream and hazelnuts, ale, malt and sherry, mature; $220.
1995 Pommery Brut "Cuvee Louise," Reims: toast and red apples, flint, slate, minerals, lean; $160.
Multivintage Krug Brut "Grande Cuvee," Reims: yeast, smoke, minerals, mint, yeast; fat with fruit; long, tart finish; $110.
1990 Krug Brut, Reims: complex aromas and flavors of oranges, beer, sherry, nuts and dulce de leche, muscular, intense and unique; $170.
1995 Bollinger Extra Brut Recently Disgorged, Ay: toasted almonds, smoke and beer, extra rich and full-bodied; long, citrus rind finish; $200.
1995 Pol Roger Brut, "Cuvee Winston Churchill," Epernay: caramel, oranges and vanilla, muscular fruit but frothy body, sweet-tart finish; $196.
Nonvintage Louis Roederer Brut Premier, Reims: yeast and almonds, light and frothy lemon meringue; $40.
Nonvintage Besserat de Bellefon Brut "Cuvee des Moines," Epernay: powerful, sweet lemon drop flavors; full body; $39.
Nonvintage Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut, Reims: toasty, nutty, rich, bone-dry kiwi flavors; $40.
Nonvintage Deutz Brut Classic, Ay: tart, creamy oranges and vanilla, full and rich; $40.
Nonvintage Rene Geoffroy Brut Cuvee de Reserve, Valee de la Marne: dark toast and roasted nuts, creamy orange flavors; $46.
Nonvintage Jean Lallement & amp; Fils Brut, Montagne de Reims: toasty, nutty, beery, sherry-like, very rich, tart finish; $49.
Nonvintage Piper-Heidsieck Cuvee Brut, Reims: white flowers, tart grapefruit and green apples, light as air, lively; $35.
1998 Piper-Heidsieck Brut, Reims: fresh, light, fruity, with kiwi and papaya; $60.
Nonvintage Piper-Heidsieck Cuvee Rare, Reims: rich, ripe tropical fruit, papaya, coconut, kiwi, vanilla; $120.
1995 Charles Heidsieck "Blanc des Millenaires" Brut, Reims: fresh, rich dried fruits, $95.
1985 Charles Heidsieck "Champagne Charlie" Brut, Reims: rich and powerful, melted butter and candied fruit; $120.
Nonvintage Piper-Heidsieck Rose Sauvage, Reims: rich, tart cranberry and pink grapefruit flavors, spicy finish; $45.
1996 Charles Heidsieck Brut Rose, Reims: complex, rich red raspberry jam, long finish; $80.
Nonvintage Piper-Heidsieck "Cuvee Sublime," Demi-Sec, Reims: slightly sweet, almond paste, vanilla and spice, very rich; $37.
CALIFORNIA
Highly Recommended:
1999 Chandon "Etoile" Brut Sur Lies Sparkling Wine, Napa and Sonoma: buttered toast aromas, sweet lemons and oranges and spice, creamy; $37.
2002 Domaine Carneros by Taittinger, Napa: aromas and flavors of tropical fruit and spice, lively bubbles; $25.
Recommended:
Nonvintage Chandon Brut Classic Sparkling Wine: toasty aromas, black cherry and vanilla flavors, soft bubbles; $18.
Nonvintage Mumm Napa Brut Prestige: rich, crisp and tart, light body; $17.
Nonvintage Piper Sonoma Blanc de Noir: yeasty and crisp, with red fruit flavors; $17.
Nonvintage Gloria Ferrer Brut Sonoma: green apple flavors, tart and crisp; $18.
Nonvintage Iron Horse Wedding Cuvee: toasty, yeasty, full-bodied; $27.