Feminine cocktail dresses fit for any occasion



Retro-inspired, finely detailed dresses return as fashion favorites.
NEW YORK (AP) -- Cocktail dresses are the toast of the town this season.
They're the solution for any party, and most can be adapted either for daytime or black-tie occasions.
"The return of the cocktail dress is really about fashion's love affair with all things feminine and retro-inspired," says Gregg Andrews, fashion director at Nordstrom.
The 1940s and '50s seem to be particularly influential, he says. "We're seeing a fitted bodice, fuller skirt -- often knee-length to mid-calf -- with a raised or natural waist, a very defined waist."
Other details are ruching, ruffles, beading and even attached brooches.
Lace and chiffon are popular fabrics for dresses as are sheer or "illusion" fabrics that allow you to see the skin through "a veil of fabric," Andrews says. "It's not as overtly sexy while still being alluring."
Hints of the 1920s can be seen in straighter-shaped dresses with dropped waist and asymmetrical or handkerchief hems and a little bit of beading.
It can be magical when a woman wears a "real" cocktail dress, one that was designed to be both chic and easy for when a woman was indeed drinking, designer Karl Lagerfeld says.
"It's an image very much from the '50s. Chanel, Jacques Fath and Balenciaga were famous for 'cocktail dresses.' Women always wore hats then," Lagerfeld says.
His holiday Lagerfeld Gallery collection features a dramatic one-shoulder sheer overlay with a high waist over a strapless beaded sheath, and a brown sleeveless dress with a pleated hemline, beaded waistband and white high-neck collar.
Renewed enjoyment
"Women are becoming more and more comfortable with the idea of dresses because more dresses are available to them. They don't offer the flexibility in fit that separates do, but the variety of styles makes up for it," says Andrews. "Women are enjoying dressing in the more feminine way that is so fashionable now."
Banana Republic executive vice president of design Deborah Lloyd is one of the converts.
"I'm wearing dresses all the time now," she says. "I love the fact that you don't have to think so much. The top and bottom are already together. I find them easy."
Lloyd says the silk dresses she's relied on this fall are easily covered with a cardigan to adapt for weather or work. She pairs them with cute flats, high-heeled strappy shoes or higher-heeled boots.
One of Banana Republic's cocktail looks is a pleated taffeta dress. "It's just one of those dresses that work," Lloyd says. "It's very easy to wear. Who would've thought that of a pleated cocktail dress?"
Pleats can indeed be hard to wear, but, first off, these pleats are vertical not horizontal. Lloyd explains that because the pleats are fine, they create a flattering feminine line "and they'll hide things underneath."
There also is a sheen to the fabric and the taffeta isn't too heavy, so the dress has movement.
"This dress is nice because if you wear with denim jacket and boots, you can wear it in the day as well," Lloyd adds.
This particular dress is available in silver or black, which is the predominant color on retail racks. Jewel tones, especially ruby red and teal blue, are another option, as are other metallics, including light gold and bronze.
Subdued colors
"I do tend to like dresses that aren't too colorful. I like colors that are noncolors. They allow you to wear the dress. You can be chic and beautiful, but people won't see the dress walk in," Lloyd says.
But with all the choices available, Andrews suggests trying something other than the round-neck, sleeveless black sheath that's become the standard "little black dress." "There's nothing wrong with that dress -- it always looks good -- but it's not this season's black dress."
Because of their flexibility, a cocktail dress generally is a wiser purchase than a ballgown unless you're one of the few people whose calendars are filled with formal black-tie affairs.
"Evening gowns will always be a part of holiday fashion, but so few women have an opportunity to wear a true gown that, in most instances, women will find a cocktail dress a more practical, more wearable addition to the wardrobe," Andrews says. "If you're someone who travels, someone who takes cruises, you can take your new dress on board for your winter vacation. You can also wear it to evening weddings."
Andrews predicts that dresses will be popular for the next few fashion cycles. "We're definitely seeing dresses coming into spring 2006," he says.