DINNER TONIGHT Try some Yemeni chicken

By ROBIN MATHER JENKINS
CHICAGO TRIBUNE
Other cultures, especially those that rely on grains and cereals, have given Americans many intriguing condiments. Bland by nature, grains and cereals benefit from a little va-va-va-voom. Consider sriracha, the Thai hot chili-garlic sauce, or harissa, the fiery North African sauce composed of the same basics.
Now consider z'ug (sometimes spelled zhoug in a phonetic attempt to approximate its Arabic pronunciation), a ferociously hot Yemeni herb condiment used to dress almost anything, except perhaps pastries. I love the stuff so much that I have just barely stayed my hand from stirring it into a glass of milk, though I may yet try doing so in the future.
Z'ug is pestolike in its start and its end, but nowhere near pesto in its middle. Pureed cilantro and flat-leaf parsley form its foundation; lots of garlic, chilies and cumin rev it up. Finally, a splash of olive oil moistens the mix to smooth it into an aromatic, lively sauce. Its proportions can vary according to your preference.
Though I prefer homemade, z'ug is often available at Arabic markets in squat jars.
When I have no z'ug on hand, I can always approximate its flavor by using the same ingredients in less traditional proportions.
That's what I did with this chicken salad, and its light, bright flavor seemed just right on a hot night. The leftovers were mighty good for lunch the next day, too.
MENU
Yemeni-style chicken salad
Blanched or steamed green beans
Sliced tomatoes
Pita bread
Lemon- or limeade
Fresh seasonal fruit
TIPS
Don't have pine nuts? Toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped, would be great too.
You may not need all the dressing. Use any remaining as a sauce for grilled fish or vegetables.
YEMENI-STYLE CHICKEN SALAD
2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup fat-free yogurt
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 red serrano chilies, seeded, stemmed, minced
3 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted (see note)
3 green onions, thinly sliced
1 rib celery, chopped
1 carrot, grated
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 cup minced cilantro
1/2 cup minced flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
Place the chicken breasts in a large skillet with water just to cover. Heat to a boil over medium-high heat; reduce heat to simmer. Cook until chicken is opaque, firm to the touch and no longer pink inside, 8-12 minutes.
Meanwhile, mix together mayonnaise and yogurt in a medium bowl. Add garlic, chilies, pine nuts, green onions, celery, carrot, cumin, cilantro and parsley; toss to combine. Set aside.
Remove chicken from skillet; set aside until cool enough to handle, about 2 minutes. Chop chicken coarsely; stir into mayonnaise mixture. Season with salt and pepper.
Note: Toast pine nuts in a small dry skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until aromatic, about 5 minutes.
Yield: 4 servings.
Nutrition information per serving: 530 calories, 55 percent of calories from fat, 32 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 136 mg cholesterol, 9 g carbohydrates, 50 g protein, 893 mg sodium, 2 g fiber.