SEWING Follow hints when creating bias binding

It's worth taking the time to make flawless bias binding.
By SUSAN KHALJE
SCRIPPS HOWARD
Sometimes those of us who sew can rely on purchased bias tape. But often we have to make our own. And that requires careful cutting, piecing, shaping and application.
Bias binding will never look beautiful on the garment if it's not properly cut -- and that begins with thoroughly pressing the fabric, taking care not to distort it if it's a scrap or a piece with uneven edges.
I like to line it up along the corner of a table or a cutting mat. That way I can guarantee that its lengthwise and crosswise grains are perpendicular. I then make a mark a given distance up from the corner onto one edge, then the same distance up from the corner onto the other edge. I then connect the two points with a yardstick (I like to use my heavy metal one to help hold the fabric in place), and draw a line along the edge of the yardstick with a chalk marker (the Chalkoner, with its tiny serrated blade, is ideal). I then mark parallel lines, using the first line as my guide.
Keep it straight
Rotary cutters are ideal for cutting bias strips, but nice, sharp shears -- especially the micro-serrated ones -- are just fine. Bias strips often have to be pieced, and the pieces have to be joined along the straight grain of the fabric (which, on a bias strip, will appear to be on the diagonal).
Whenever I can, I use the selvedges in my piecing. Once the pieced seams have been pressed open, I fold the bias in half lengthwise. I'm very careful to fold it without shifting it -- I take it to my ironing surface, and work with it gently. I fold over and pin each end, then the center of the piece, then in the center of each half, then in the center of each quadrant, and so on. Although the bias tape will be opened out when I apply it to the garment, I like to establish the initial fold this way.
Pin carefully
Once it's time to apply the bias to the garment, I pin it into place slowly and carefully, giving extra length at outside curves (it will stretch as it curves, and will be end up being too narrow unless I compensate for the curve with a little extra length in the tape), and less length on inside curves (it will bubble up and get too wide unless I compensate by tightening and shortening the tape a little bit). I like to baste it into place before stitching it -- then I won't have the bother of stopping to remove pins as I go along, and the tape won't be shifted by the pressure of the presser foot.
Depending on the application, the second side can be sewn by machine or hand, but again, I pin carefully -- folding the bias into place without the slightest bit of shifting (pin each end, then the center, then the quadrants). Basting the second side into place will show you if you've avoided diagonal drag lines, and if you've been able to maintain a consistent width as you shape the tape into place.
Smooth surface
If the coast is clear, then you can apply the second row of stitches. If not, re-pin and re-baste until the surface is smooth.
It's worth taking the time to make flawless bias binding. But remember, it all starts with fabric cut at exactly 45 degrees. If it's not, even the best dressmaker in the world won't be able to get it to cooperate.