Gathering problems are easy to control

A little extra preparation makes a satisfactory conclusion possible.
By SUSAN KHALJE
SCRIPPS HOWARD
Sometimes the sewing techniques we think of as simple, basic and easy to do (usually the things we learned ages ago, and don't give much thought to) can be enhanced with a little extra preparation. And I always think of gathering as a good case in point.
I've seen a lot of garments spoiled with gathers that are uneven and not very well-controlled. Let me share a few of the steps I take when I sew gathers.
The first thing I do, even before applying the gathering stitches themselves, is to run a row of zig-zag stitches along the edge that will be gathered, unless it's on the bias. Gathering involves a lot of fabric manipulation, and unless the raw edge is tamed, a mass of unwelcome, unraveled threads is inevitable.
Once I've applied the zig-zag stitches (which can be large, but must be applied right on top of the raw edge), I add a number of markers to help me distribute my fabric evenly, and to place it accurately to the matching garment section. Straight pins are the quickest markers to apply, but they tend to fall out during all the fabric manipulation. Small safety pins work well, but the best solution is a series of thread markers. I place them in the seam allowance, at the quarter and half points (and more frequently, if necessary), and put matching markers on the edge to which I'll be sewing my gathered fabric.
Size is important
The next step is to determine is the size of the stitches you'll be using for your gathering. The stitches have to be large enough to gather up the fabric without too much of a struggle, especially over particularly thick areas, like seam allowances, yet small enough to hold the fabric in place once it's been gathered up.
I place three rows of gathering stitches -- one right along the stitching line, and the other two in the seam allowance. I like to use an extra-wide seam allowance to give room for the three rows of stitches, and to give me an adequate amount of fabric to hold in my fingers as I work with the gathers. Once the stitches are in place, I start pulling the gathering threads, in a unit, all from the same side.
Patience required
The threads can be pulled from either the top of the fabric or the bottom (some sewers feel that it's easier to pull the threads from the underside of the fabric). I work carefully and patiently, lining up the seam allowances neatly.
Once I'm happy with the look of the gathers and their spacing, I press the seam allowance (taking care not to press into the actual gathers themselves). Not only does the pressing flatten the seam allowance, it lessens bulk and encourages the gathers to stay in place until they're stitched to the matching garment section. For a final bit of control, I hand-baste them into place before machine-stitching them.
The result is evenly spaced, beautifully controlled gathers -- a real enhancement to a garment. Give this method a try. I think you'll find extra steps well worth the trouble.