CHOCOLATE SEASON Meltingly good gifts

Whether you make or buy chocolate goodies, go for the best.
By LAURA S. MEYN
VINDICATOR CORRESPONDENT
Chocolate is the classic Valentine's day gift: It's both indulgent and delicious. Some -- as the Aztec king Montezuma did -- even believe that chocolate is an aphrodisiac.
But, dear fellows, all chocolates are not equal. Rushing by the convenience market and buying a box of candy is not romantic; it's a desperate and often last-minute act of self-preservation.
Such efforts often yield the sort of chocolate that, at least among women, is known as "not worth the calories." This is the sort of chocolate that is dumped in the trash when you aren't looking.
Better is a gift of chocolate that you have -- quite literally -- had a hand in. Industrious valentines can head to the kitchen to create chocolate gifts that show their creativity and thoughtfulness. If you know how to operate a microwave, which most popcorn eaters do, you can dip fresh berries in melted chocolate, place them on a waxed-paper-lined plate, and chill until set.
Some grocery stores and craft stores such as Jo-Ann (Boardman and Niles) carry chocolate designed to melt easily in the microwave, which makes it perfect for the novice.
Serving options
Serve your chocolate creation with sparkling wine (the new Jacob's Creek sparkler is very nice); this makes a simple yet sophisticated offering that is sure to set the right tone for the evening.
Other things to dip in that vat of melted chocolate? Mini-pretzels are a popular choice, as are Oreo cookies. Either can be packed up in a decorative box or tin and presented as a unique Valentine's Day gift.
For the slightly more kitchen-savvy, making fudge is the perfect project for a homemade Valentine's gift: It's easy, it comes together in minutes, and it's an indulgence that is, for most of us, limited to such holidays. See my easy recipe below for specific directions on making foolproof fudge. I used white chocolate chips as a topping for this fudge, but it is terrific with a number of different toppings. Keep your sweetie's tastes in mind, and use your creativity to adapt the recipe for your specific valentine.
The right purchase
All of this talk about homemade gifts shouldn't rule out purchased chocolates, of course. Just be sure that a store-bought box of chocolates, like a homemade gift, shows your thoughtfulness.
Instead of settling for a prepackaged box, try visiting one of the better chocolatiers in town, such as Shelton-Mathews (2503 Mahoning Avenue, Youngstown; [800] 844-9497) and hand-picking what your sweetheart desires: caramel centers, chocolate ganache, or perhaps their creamy hazelnut Nut Basket candies.
Superb chocolates can also be found online at See's Candies (www.sees.com), where shoppers select the specific candies they want in their custom box, adjusting percentages of each type before closing the deal. (If you buy from See's, don't miss the Cashew Brittle or the Caf & eacute; au Lait Truffles.)
Not only does a custom box of chocolates show the thought you put into pondering her tastes, but mail order means you will have solid chocolate proof that you thought about Valentine's Day before late the evening of February 13.
Unlike its prepackaged counterparts, a custom box of chocolates is unlikely to have any jelly centers. And whereas a prepackaged box of chocolates might feel like an afterthought, a custom-selected box will seem nothing short of intuitive.
A gift of chocolate can indeed be an aphrodisiac -- especially when it shows how much the giver cares for the receiver. The combination of a sweet gift and the tender sentiment behind it makes a terrific recipe for romance.
VALENTINE'S DAY FUDGE
112-ounce bag semisweet chocolate chips
2cups miniature marshmallows
1/2cup white chocolate chips
11/2cups sugar
2/3cup evaporated milk
2tablespoons butter
1/4teaspoon salt
1teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4cup additional white chocolate chips (or alternative topping)
Line 8-inch square baking dish with foil. Combine semisweet chocolate chips, marshmallows and 1/2 cup white chocolate chips in medium bowl. Set aside.
In heavy medium saucepan, stir sugar, evaporated milk, butter and salt over medium heat. Bring mixture to boil. Boil mixture 5 minutes, reducing heat to medium-low if necessary and whisking constantly. Remove from heat.
Immediately pour hot sugar mixture over chocolate and marshmallows in bowl (do not scrape saucepan). Whisk quickly until all chocolate and marshmallows are melted and mixture is smooth. Whisk in vanilla. Pour mixture into foil-lined baking dish. Sprinkle additional white chocolate chips or other topping evenly over fudge, pressing in slightly. Cover and refrigerate until cold, about 2 hours.
Grasping edges of foil, lift foil and fudge out of baking dish and place on work surface. Cut fudge on diagonal into 1-inch diamonds. Pack in decorative container between sheets of waxed paper. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Makes about 2 dozen pieces.
Note: Although I use white chocolate chips, the topping for this easy fudge can be whatever you or your sweetie desires: chopped toasted nuts, M & amp;M candies, toffee bits, and cinnamon chips all work well. You'll need a heaping 1/4 cup of topping for one recipe of fudge.