HOW-TO 'EYE-DEAS' From the experts



Several well-known makeup artists share their tips for applying mascara in order to give eyes a dramatic, yet natural, look. Here are some suggestions from Frankie Jones, Neiman Marcus makeup artist:
Place the wand at the base of the top lashes and wiggle through the lashes. Wiggling the wand ensures that each lash will be coated completely. If you apply mascara with a long stroke upward, your lashes aren't grabbing as much of the product.
When applying mascara, hold your lashes upward with the wand for a second. This helps the lash dry with a slight curl.
A brown eye looks great with deep-navy-blue mascara. It enhances the white. For a more dramatic eye, go with black. Brown mascara gives the eye a softer look, adding emphasis to the actual eye color. It's great for those with light-colored eyes.
Mitzi Spallas, a makeup artist and hair stylist in Los Angeles says:
Make sure to twist and close the mascara tightly. Any air that gets into the tube will make the mascara dry out more quickly.
Use an eyelash comb after applying the mascara, especially if using more than one coat. It will help to separate the eyelashes and get rid of clumps. (Style Matters tip: Save an old mascara wand, sanitize it in the dishwasher and use it to brush off excess mascara.)
Use waterproof mascara in different ways: as a thin top coat so that your mascara does not bleed under your eye; on the lower lashes to keep the under-eye area from getting dark; and on the tips of upper lashes to prevent regular mascara from causing under-eye smudging.
Curl lashes before using mascara, not after, or lashes could break off.
If using colored mascara, use it over black, because most of them are not dark enough to accent your lashes.
If you're a blond, stick with brown mascara. Black sometimes looks too harsh.
Michael Moore of Simply Moore, in Denver, has this advice:
If the brush is clumpy, the mascara will be clumpy on your lashes. Wipe the wand gently with a tissue to remove excess.
Women over 40-50 should use navy mascara. It will instantly give their eyes a rested look.
Very few people can pull off wearing colored mascara -- purple, green, red. Do not use these to bring color and definition to the eyes; they will usually make the eyes look weak.
To apply mascara, I tell clients to look in the mirror, put their heads back and tilt to the side of the eye they're applying the mascara on and apply from the base all the way to the tips.
Never apply the mascara just to the tips of the lashes. This weighs them down and removes the curl.
Joanna Schlip, an L.A.-based makeup artist suggests:
The best mascara color is always black.
Apply one coat. Start on the outer corner where you want the most product and work your way in. For more drama, apply two maybe even three coats. Let each coat dry and remember to comb through each time to prevent a clumpy look.
Lori MacElroy, a cosmetic professional shopper, advises:
If the mascara looks clumpy on the wand, first wipe it off on the edge of the tube.
Never pump the wand in the tube, as it pumps air inside and dries out the mascara more quickly. Instead, twist the wand inside the tube to get more mascara.
If color all over the lashes is too trendy for you, use a black or brown mascara and tip the ends of the lashes with color.
If you have thick, large, lush lashes, the bigger wands work well. If your lashes are smaller, or you have small eyes, smaller wands work better.
Go slowly when applying. Never share your mascara with anyone.