SEWING Rayon is touted as great transitional fabric
The biodegradable fiber is used for popular challis prints.
KNIGHT RIDDER NEWSPAPERS
Cool, comfortable, drapy rayon is again enjoying fashion favor. We see it in designer collections, and in ready-to-wear at affordable prices. For home sewers, it's a great transitional fabric for early fall styles.
Rayon is not, as often thought, a synthetic. Nor is it a true natural fiber. Produced from cellulose (from trees), it's a biodegradable fiber, technically a manmade cellulosic. It was first introduced in 1889, and called artificial silk. Modern technical processes have improved the performance of rayon, and it's available in many varieties.
Rayon takes dyes beautifully, as evidenced in the challis prints we all love. The crepes are ideal for evening wear, but rayon can also feel cottony or linen-like. Very often it's blended with polyester, acetate or cotton, because it contributes softness and absorbency.
If you prefer to preshrink your yardage, you'll find that rayons can be laundered easily and safely. They're not damaged by detergents or softeners. Use a gentle, cool-water cycle, then dry (and press) at medium to low temperatures. Some types of rayon are heat-sensitive due to added finishes. A few varieties may require dry cleaning. As with all fabrics, care depends largely on how it was constructed and how it was dyed, so follow care instructions on the bolt. Some rayons may need touch-up ironing.
Fluid fabric
To make the most of rayon's fluidity, choose patterns with a loose, comfortable fit. Bias cut styles work well, too. If your fabric is slippery when cutting, cover the table surface with felt or cotton flannel. Sewing is easy. Choose needle and thread according to weight, and a standard stitch. Use lightweight interfacings. Enclosed narrow seams, like French seams, look good and prevent raveling, or you can finish the edges with a serger. Before hemming, allow the garment to relax and hang out.
The newest type of rayon, made from regenerated cellulose, is Tencel. This trade name is well-liked for its smooth hand and durability. In Europe, rayon is usually called viscose.
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