AMERICAN DIET Yogurt makers want FDA culture standards

Major manufacturers want the government to revise its definition of yogurt.
WASHINGTON POST
Over the past few decades, yogurt has become a big thing in the American diet.
Per capita, we spoon down about five pounds annually, either plain or studded with fruit, sprinkles or granola. That amounted to $2.4 billion in sales last year.
Some of that consumption is linked to the increasingly sweet taste of yogurt, which makes it seem more like dessert than a health food. Some of it is purchased for the "bugs" in it -- the Lactobacillus bulgaricus, Streptococcus thermophilus and other cultures -- that some believe have the potential to boost the immune system.
The major manufacturers of yogurt, Dannon Co. and Yoplait-Colombo, which is owned by General Mills Inc., have asked the Food and Drug Administration to revise its definition of yogurt -- that is, what has to be in it to be called yogurt.
Minimum standards
If approved, the change would require for the first time a minimum level of bacteria to be added to yogurt products. It also would not allow any dairy product that is heat-treated for longer shelf life (which kills off the good bacteria). And it would say yogurt has to contain at least 51 percent standard and optional dairy ingredients.
Since the FDA published an advance notice of proposed rulemaking in July, what the yogurt makers billed as a straightforward, pro-consumer change has erupted into a brawl among dairy farmers, big food companies and yogurt manufacturers. Trade issues, price supports for milk and growing imports of a substance called milk protein concentrate are swirling through the debate.
"It's about time the FDA decided to require active cultures in anything called yogurt," said Bonnie Liebman, director of nutrition for the Center for Science in the Public Interest. "They should have had a standard for active cultures a long time ago."
Nudging the FDA
The National Yogurt Association, whose members include Dannon, Yoplait and Johanna Foods Inc. in New Jersey, which makes many private-label brands, began nudging the FDA more than three years ago.
Some smaller yogurt processors don't like the proposal because of the cost of the testing.
The dairy farmers, who supply the fundamental ingredients of yogurt now required by the FDA -- cream, milk, partially skimmed milk or skim milk -- criticize the petition as a cynical attempt by yogurt makers to decrease the amount of milk used in yogurt.
They're worried that the new standard will open the door to the use of imported milk protein concentrate as an optional ingredient, a fear that the manufacturers dismiss.
Milk protein concentrate, which is a dried, low-cost milk protein, is used in a variety of products and comes primarily from Australia, New Zealand and the European Union. There are no tariffs on it.
"Our overall concern is all these changes proposed to FDA appear to be an attempt to let processors use cheaper ingredients," said Robert Byrne, vice president of regulatory affairs for the National Milk Producers Federation, which represents dairy producers and cooperatives.
Increased imports
Imports of milk protein concentrate, which generally is not now used in yogurt, have increased to 200 million pounds in 2002 from 50 million pounds in the mid-1990s.
Robert Garfield, senior vice president at the National Yogurt Association, said the opposition is baffling. "In their political battle against milk protein concentrate, they have chosen to vent their anger over yogurt." He said milk protein concentrate "isn't a player at all" in yogurt.