THE CLASSIC

THE CLASSIC
What's the difference: The Waring 60th anniversary model's cloverleaf-shaped glass jar, waterfall base and high-low toggle power switch are identical to the 1930s Waring Bar Blender. Reissued models with bright colors, fancy finishes and pulse features upgrade the design.
What we thought: The Waring loves a small batch of cocktails, not the hot, messy workaday duties of a busy kitchen (although it did make exceptional mayonnaise). The skimpy 1-cup-capacity limit for blending hot liquids makes tiresome work of pureeing soup. Other models about as good cost $100 less.
How much: $149.95 at Williams-Sonoma
THE FAVORITE
What's the difference: The Waring Commercial Drink Mixer adds a streamlined, twist-off jar base to the 44-ounce glass container. A hefty, one-half horsepower motor, brushed stainless steel exterior and high, low and pulse speeds make this model simple but serious.
What we thought: The overall winner. It performed all tasks the best. The wide-mouth container allowed easy access and visibility; the flip-open fill cap opened easily and neat freaks will like a jar base that comes off for cleaning.
How much: $199.95 at Williams-Sonoma
ICE IT, BABY
What's the difference: With a wide, squat container and crevice-free speed control pads, the KitchenAid Ultra Power 5-Speed blender delivered a significant design change when it was introduced along with a promise of superior performance.
What we thought: Sure, it looks cool, crushes ice well and doesn't splatter hot liquids, but it's no champion. A trough in the wider container captures ingredients, leaving gloppy, choppy stuff in the bottom. Unless you can palm a basketball, the large jar base is hard to twist off. Skip it.
How much: $99.95 at chefscatalog.com, and many kitchen supply and department stores and Web sites.
GOOD-LOOKING TOO
What's the difference: The flared, frosted-glass pitcher gave us visions of cool cocktails. High design and low technology combine in the inexpensive model's twist-dial controls.
What we thought: With seven speeds plus a pulse, the Toastmaster model 1132 whirled through most tasks with grace and impressive airiness -- but with a fair amount of splattering. The mayo was thin and flat; serrated mixing blades, plus 350 watts of power, chopped the ice. The machine is lightweight, compact, easy to operate, reasonably quiet and a terrific bargain.
How much: $24.99 at www.amazon.com
ONLY FOR PROS
What's the difference: The 13-pound, 20-inch tall Vita-Prep 1002 by Vita-Mix Food Service has a generous 8-cup capacity and an enormously strong motor that promises superior speed and pulverizing motion.
What we thought: Only serious cooks need apply -- and tall, rich ones too. The extra power is tricky for a novice. Running on high for four minutes, the metal base and blades became so hot, they cooked the mayo into scrambled eggs.
How much: $389 at restaurant and serious chef supply stores
QUICK, THE EARPLUGS
What's the difference: With 14 speeds, including easy-clean and pulse, the Oster Designer Thermal Blender packs a lot of features into a compact 14-inch height.
What we thought: Despite a powerful 450-watt motor and 5-cup, wide-mouth glass container, this blender looked better than it worked. The many speeds were overkill; the noise, awful; and the wide-mouth jar didn't effectively decrease the splatters.
How much: $44.95 at www.1-800-sunbeam.com