DESIGNER Titanium is hottest new metal for jewelry

It's only in recent years that titanium has moved into the mainstream of fine jewelry.
KNIGHT RIDDER NEWSPAPERS
When Ed Rosenberg displayed his first collection of titanium jewelry at an industry show more than 20 years ago in New York City, within minutes he was handcuffed by police and thrown out. Rosenberg was accused of selling jewelry made of "radioactive plutonium" or the "stuff that killed Superman."
Today no one is handcuffing Rosenberg. Instead, they're lining up to buy the rings, bracelets, necklaces and accessories made by his Deerfield Beach, Fla., company, Spectore Corp. Rosenberg's company has even made a titanium peacock for Queen Elizabeth and titanium chain-link dresses for Madonna, Cher and Tina Turner.
Once only a material used for spaceships and golf clubs, titanium is one of the hottest new metals in fine jewelry. The trend earned pop culture status this past summer thanks to "Charlie's Angels: Full Throttle," where the hunt for titanium rings is part of the movie's plot.
"I never questioned that titanium would be what it is today, but I questioned whether I would live long enough to see it," said Rosenberg during an interview at his office and manufacturing facility in a Deerfield Beach warehouse park. "People are reluctant to change, and the jewelry industry is probably the most stoic."
A pioneer in the industry, Spectore bills itself as the world's largest designer and manufacturer of titanium products. While the company was incorporated in 1983, it's only in recent years that titanium has moved into the mainstream of fine jewelry.
Spectore's sales last year were close to $5 million, a 220 percent jump over the previous year, Rosenberg said. This year the privately held company, which has 70 employees, expects sales to more than double again with projections of between $10 million and $12 million. The profit margin runs about 20 percent, but most of that goes back into research and development, Rosenberg said.
Titanium jewelry is typically a gun-metal gray color similar to a brushed steel and darker than either white gold or platinum. Spectore also has a special patented process for creating black titanium. Many of the styles have gold or even diamond accents.
Many advantages
The advantage of titanium over the other metals is that it's lighter and more durable. Titanium won't scratch or nick, plus it's also completely hypoallergenic.
Durability is also why you'll find titanium used on everything from computer and cell phone cases to car parts, pacemakers and hip replacements.
"We market it as a lifetime product because it really is," said Larry DeBerry, executive vice president of Spectore. "It never gets worn out or destroyed."
Those advantages, plus the stylish modern look of Spectore's Edward Mirell Collection, is what has helped make the product attractive to consumers, retailers said.
"You can get a substantial-looking piece without carrying a lot of weight, plus it's a much lower price than platinum," said Jeff Malvin, owner of Beverly's Jewelers, which has been carrying Spectore's titanium jewelry for about a year at its three Broward County, Fla., stores. "Titanium has the potential to be huge for the jewelry industry."
At the industry's major jewelry show held in late May in Las Vegas, titanium was one of hottest new products on everyone's shopping list, said Kenneth Gassman, president of the Jewelry Industry Research Institute of Richmond, Va.
"A year ago, nobody even mentioned titanium," Gassman said. "Now it seems to be taking off at the same pace that platinum did a few years ago. But it's still only a small portion of the jewelry business."
A fine line
Spectore's line includes about 600 to 800 different jewelry items and accessories like pens and business-card cases. Retail prices range from $100 for a plain ring or bracelet to $3,400 for a diamond engagement ring or black cable necklace with diamond accents. The average price is between $200 and $400.
Retailers say the line has been particularly popular with men.
"Men know what titanium is, and they like the nice, clean look," said Kayla Robbs, merchandise manager for Little Switzerland, which carries the line in 10 of its 21 stores.
For Rosenberg, his love affair with titanium began in 1979, when he went to teach American jewelry making at the Royal College in London. There he watched in amazement as he saw an engineering student try to put two pieces of titanium together and they turned every color of the rainbow.
What happens is that by dipping titanium in water and running electricity to it, a titanium oxide is formed based on the amount of voltage. When light hits that oxide, it creates a refraction, which is seen in varying colors ranging from blues to yellows and pinks.
Rosenberg, who had grown up in the jewelry business all his life, figured he had found the way to revolutionize the industry through the use of color.
"I fell in love with the material," Rosenberg says as he shows off his production facility like a proud papa. "Every day brought some new excitement."
Not for sale
But getting the company to where it is today hasn't been easy. Rosenberg initially couldn't find anyone willing to sell him titanium to make his jewelry. At the time titanium was only used for scientific purposes and the smallest order anyone would take was for one metric ton. Rosenberg got his early supplies by trading titanium earrings for as much titanium as he could load in his van in 15 minutes.
Since fine jewelers weren't willing at first to take a chance on his products, Rosenberg had to focus on the lower-priced fashion jewelry market, even selling body jewelry just to pay the bills.
Learning how to work with the titanium was also difficult. Rings expanded as the metal cooled and the worst disaster: almost setting the warehouse on fire.
"I really feel like we've unlocked some doors and just made it up to the starting gate," Rosenberg said. "Now the fun begins."