The South at its height

From its historicalpublic squares to its stately architecture, this old but livelycity maintains itsantebellum charm.
BY REBECCA SLOAN
VINDICATOR CORRESPONDENT
SAVANNAH, Ga. -- During his legendary March to the Sea, General William Tecumseh Sherman torched numerous Southern cities, leaving ashes and charred rubble where magnificent buildings once stood.
Fortunately, Savannah was spared.
When Sherman rode into Savannah in December 1864, he found the city completely deserted, and instead of burning it to the ground, the Union general offered the beautiful river port town to President Abraham Lincoln as a Christmas gift.
Because of this gentle twist of fate, Savannah emerged from the Civil War unscathed and graciously offers today's traveler a wealth of antebellum architecture and old Southern charm.
In fact, Savannah boasts so much architectural beauty and charm that its Landmark Historic District has been deemed the largest urban landmark district in America.
Notable buildings
In and around this roughly three-mile piece of ground, tourists will find some of Savannah's finest historical buildings, including:
*The Juliette Gordon Low House. Birthplace of the founder of the Girl Scouts of America, this circa-1820 home features period antiques and artifacts from Low's life.
*The Green-Meldrim Mansion. This Gothic revival-style mansion was used as Sherman's headquarters during the Union occupation of Savannah during the Civil War.
*Owens-Thomas House. Famed French General Lafayette was once a guest in this magnificent circa-1816 home.
*Cotton Exchange. Once upon a time, cotton was king in Savannah, and this circa-1886 building was the center of commerce when the city was the world's biggest cotton port. Directly in front of the Cotton Exchange is a magnificent fountain and statue of a fierce looking griffin.
*Cathedral of St. John the Baptist. This majestic, Gothic-style cathedral was dedicated in 1876 and is the oldest Roman Catholic church in Georgia. Its twin spires, stained-glass windows and elaborate murals rival those found in the most opulent of European cathedrals. St. John's is open to the public as long as a religious service is not taking place.
*Mercer House. When John Berendt's book "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil" topped best-seller lists for more than five years, people started flocking to Savannah to see this house, which is featured in the film of the same name. Berendt's book has become legendary in these parts and is known simply as "The Book" by Savannah's residents.
*King-Tisdell Cottage. This restored Victorian cottage looks like a real-life gingerbread house. Inside is a museum dedicated to recognizing contributions of blacks to American history.
*Ships of the Sea Maritime Museum. Housed in an elegant, circa-1819 mansion, this museum includes exhibitions of ship models, paintings and maritime antiques.
And the list goes on and on.
Public squares
With so much beautiful old architecture, it's easy to picture Savannah as a city made purely of brick and stone.
However, nothing could be further from the truth.
In 1733, when British General James Oglethorpe established Georgia as the 13th colony, he decided the city of Savannah should be designed with broad thoroughfares interrupted at regular intervals by spacious, garden-like public squares.
As a result, Savannah is probably one of the shadiest cities you'll ever visit, and each of its 23 public squares is more beautiful than the next.
With towering live oaks draped in Spanish moss, majestic statues, gurgling fountains and colorful flowerbeds, Savannah's squares provide respite from the blazing summer sun and invite lazy daydreams.
And there's ample material for a good daydream here.
In Wright Square, for example, a large boulder marks the grave of Yamacraw Indian Chief Tomochichi, and in Johnson Square, two fountains flank the grave of Revolutionary War hero Nathanael Greene.
Waterfront
But besides its splendid mix of architecture and fauna, Savannah has always been defined by its relationship to the river, and many of Savannah's most intriguing attractions are located at the river's edge.
Tourists flock to the city's historic waterfront, which features winding cobblestone streets, quaint shops, candy factories and numerous bars and restaurants, many of which are housed in renovated cotton warehouses.
While strolling along the waterfront, travelers will see the famous Waving Girl statue.
This bronzed statue was erected in 1971 in memory of Florence Martus, a woman who, for 44 years, waved a welcome to every incoming ship and a farewell to every outgoing ship. Florence died in 1943, but because of the famous statue, her memory lives on.
Nearby, tourists will also see Savannah's Olympic Monument, which commemorates the 1996 Olympic Games.
Guided tours
Since there's so much to see and do in Savannah's historic district, it's easy for tourists to miss something.
One way to ensure that you see all that Savannah's historic district has to offer is to take one of the city's guided tours.
Whether you travel by horse and buggy, trolley car or city transit (which is free), a guided tour will introduce you to the layout of the land and provide a brief overview of the city's most coveted attractions.
Then, after you've formed your game plan, you can go back to the places at the top of your list and visit them at your leisure.
If you plan to drive into town, park you car and walk on foot, remember to bring cash for parking.
A choice central parking lot is the City Market parking garage on Congress Street. Unlimited parking costs $5 on weekdays and $7 on weekends.
XFor more information about historic Savannah, visit www.savannahvisit.com on the Web or call the Savannah Area Convention and Visitor's Bureau at (877) SAVANNAH.