Outer Banks, inner excitement

WASHINGTON POST
If you're in the market for a nine-bedroom behemoth with a pool, this stretch of the coast is for you. While it may be the ritziest part of the Outer Banks (you can kill a day just mansion-ogling), it's no less accessible. Boutiques and pricey restaurants abound, but the kids can still take a spin in a Go-Kart, and the beaches are spectacular.
ATTRACTIONS & amp; DISTRACTIONS
COROLLA
Get one last shot at the surf at the Currituck County Public Beach Access (Route 12, just north of the Pine Island development); the beach is a beaut, and you can shower before the long ride home. Golf amid sand dunes and wetlands on the Rees Jones-designed course at the Currituck Club (1 Currituck Clubhouse Dr., [888] 453-9400). Rates from $98, including tax, cart and greens fees.
It's not cheap, but kids with a need for speed dig the Corolla Raceway (Timbuk II shopping center, Route 12, [252] 453-9100); $9 buys a five-minute run. Slow things down up the road at the Grass Course (Route 12, [252] 453-4198), where a round on one of the first all-grass minigolf layouts is $8.
The Currituck Heritage Park (Route 12) is a pretty 39-acre enclave that's home to a boat landing, festivals, concerts, picnic gazebo and the historic Currituck Beach Lighthouse, which you can scale for $6. Also on site is the 1922 art-nouveau Whalehead Club ([252] 453-9040), a former private residence now open for 45-minute guided tours ($6). Nearby, the 1885 Corolla Chapel (Route 12, Historic Corolla Village, [252] 453-4224) is a popular spot for summer services.
Stop at the National Estuarine Research Reserve (Route 12, about a half-mile south of the road's end) and hike the short boardwalk to the edge of Currituck Sound. Then head north to the end of the road and watch the SUVs packed with wild-horse-seeking kids get stuck in the sand.
DUCK
Who knew erosion could be interesting? Take a free guided tour of the Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility (Route 12 just north of the water tower, [252] 261-6840, Ext. 401); tours held Monday through Friday at 10 a.m. beginning June 16. Route 12 in Duck is a center for parasailing, jet-skiing, kayak rentals and other water sports. Providers include North Duck Watersports (252-261-4200), North Beach Outfitters (252-261-6262) and Nor'banks Sailing Center (252-261-2900).
SOUTHERN SHORES
Ditch the kids and pamper yourself at the Ma'Lese Day Spa (1 Ocean Blvd., [252] 255-5502), tucked deep within the Southern Shores Crossing strip mall. Massages from $40, facials from $70. The Outer Banks Forum for the Lively Arts ([252] 202-9732) lists upcoming events at a signpost on Route 12 at Dogwood Terrace.
SHOPPING
COROLLA
The Dolphin Watch Gallery (Timbuk II, Route 12, [252] 453-2592) has a nice selection of pottery, stained glass and carvings. You won't know where to look first at the Cotton Gin (Timbuk II, [252] 453-4446), a mammoth multilevel gift shop; go for the shopping, stay for the air conditioning. Across the street, stop in at the refurbished Bacchus Wine Cheese & amp; Meats (Monteray Plaza, Route 12, [252] 453-4333) if your vacation isn't complete without brie and Chardonnay. Summertime wine tastings are held Tuesdays and Wednesdays; call for reservations. The Lighthouse Museum Shop (Currituck Beach Lighthouse grounds, [252] 453-6778) has a fun collection of beacon-abilia. Stock up on beach reading at the Island Bookstore (Historical Corolla Village, Route 12, [252] 453-2292); the kids section alone is worth the trip.
DUCK
Creep out the kids at the Wooden Feather Wildlife Gallery (Scarborough Lane Shoppes, Route 12, [252] 261-2808), whose lifelike collection of decoys and other realistic bird art swoops down from the rafters. The Rusty Hinge ([252] 261-2090), in the same shopping center, has a fab collection of home accents. Next door at the Scarborough Faire Shopping Village, stock up on rubber ducky umbrellas, backpacks and soap at Rub-a-Dub Duck ([252] 261-0833). Outer Barks (Osprey Landing, Route 12, [252] 261-6279) is packed with all things canine, from dog sculptures to pet-care products -- and there's a welcoming bowl of water outside the door.
Nearby at Wee Winks Square, the Lucky Duck ([252] 261-7800) is a cavernous gift shop crammed with beachy tchotchkes. Guys, let the womenfolk shop alone at the highly fragranced Lady Victorian (Wee Winks Square, [252] 261-1654), a clothing and jewelry boutique. The Kid's Store (Waterfront Shops, Route 12, [252] 261-3553) has reasonably priced beach playthings, stickers, tot toys and jewelry.
SOUTHERN SHORES
It ain't pretty, but the Marketplace (Milepost 1 on Route 158) is the only strip mall before you head north to Duck, with a Food Lion and CVS for supplies; Wal-Mart is right across the highway.
LODGING
COROLLA
Guests at the laid-back Inn at Corolla Light (1066 Ocean Trail, [800] 215-0772; from $159) have access to the amenities at the Corolla Light Resort Village, including pools, cafes, an indoor sports center and tennis courts. All rooms have refrigerators and VCRs, others kitchenettes.
DUCK
While the majority of upper coast visitors rent homes, the upper crust head to the ritzy Sanderling (1461 Duck Rd., [252] 261-4111), the 800-pound pelican in these parts. Up the road, the relatively new Hampton Inn and Suites (333 Audubon Dr., [252] 453-6565; from $205) features a knockout lobby, pleasant rooms/suites, a great pool and no neighbors -- and the beach is only a few yards away. Near the shops/restaurants of central Duck, Advice 5 & cent; (111 Scarborough Lane, [252] 255-1050; from $175) is a B & amp;B with enviable decor and charm, but in a flip-flop way.
PLACES TO EAT
COROLLA
An airy, casual nook with great service, the North Banks Restaurant and Raw Bar (Timbuk II, Route 12, [252] 453-3344) offers killer chowder, top-notch seafood and great service. Dinner entrees from $17.95. For a Mexican fix, head across the street to Monteray Plaza, where La Fogata's ([252] 453-9717) extensive menu of chimichanga, enchilada and burrito platters begin at a cheapo $5.50.
The high-end Italian menu at Nicoletta's (Corolla Light Village Shops, Route 12, [252] 453-4004) has its share of sea scallops and shrimp, but you can also dig into Angus beef and free-range chicken. Dinner entrees from $18. A few doors down, the Horseshoe Cafe ([252] 453-8463), with its Southwestern-infused seafood and meat dishes, will give your wallet less of a workout; entrees start at $10.50.
Forget about table service at Corolla Village Barbecue (Historic Corolla Village, Route 12, [252] 457-0076), where takeout is the only way to go. The smell is heavenly -- from the food and nearby gardens. Pork barbecue plates, including cornbread and two sides, from $6.95. Or go to Dockside (Monteray Plaza, [252] 453-8112; also in Duck near Wee Winks Square) for one of its Down East Clambakes to Go. Combos, which can include snow crab legs, shrimp and lobster, start at $19.99 a person -- and that includes the pot to cook it in.
DUCK
For a splurge, you can't do much better than the widely acclaimed Elizabeth's Cafe and Winery (Scarborough Faire Shoppes, Route 12, [252] 261-6145). A la carte entrees -- from pan-seared salmon to mushroom ravioli -- start around $28, while a six-course prix-fixe meal including wine is $80 per person.
Locals swear by the excellent bread at Red Sky Cafe (Village Square, Route 12, [252] 261-7562), but the seafood in this crowded, noisy little spot is pretty good, too. Dinner entrees from $13.99. Sneeze and you'll miss the Roadside Bar and Grill (1193 Duck Rd., [252] 261-5729), which is too bad, because the food -- including grilled tuna -- is worth discovering. Dinner entrees from $20. Opt for an outside, sound-front table at the wonderful Blue Point Grill (Waterfront Shops, Route 12, [252] 261-8090) and enjoy the great seafood (catfish, salmon, etc., from $16.95) and the potent cocktails while the sun sets.
It's big, boisterous and wildly popular, but with live music and a waterfront locale it's no mystery why Fishbones Sunset Grille (1264 Duck Rd., [252] 261-3901) keeps packing them in. Dinner entrees from $14.95. Nearby, the Duck News Cafe (1564 Duck Rd., [252] 255-0773) serves decent fried seafood and steamed goodies such as oysters, clams and shrimp. Dinner entrees from $14.95.
Watch the Duck ducks swim by at Sunset Ice Cream (Waterfront Shops, Route 12, [252] 261-3553; cones from $1.95), one of the area's few waterfront ice cream shops. At the moody Duck's Cottage (Waterfront Shops, [252] 261-5510), a coffee shop/newsstand, you'll wonder how someplace this cool ended up here. Try the coconut crunch coffee.
SOUTHERN SHORES
Carolina Blue (Milepost 1 on Route 158, Marketplace, [252] 255-1543) is a pretty, sophisticated little place with seafood dinner entrees from $20.95. About a half-mile away, the stylish Meridian 42 (1 Ocean Blvd., Southern Shores Crossing, 252-261-0420) serves up tapas as bright as the painted walls. Tapas from $3.50, entrees from $16.