Middle banks

Legend has it that pirates strapped lanterns to the heads of horses (a k a "nags") to lure ships to "safe" ground. The ships would get stuck in the shallow waters, where the pirates would rob them silly. Today, modern-day pirates run undistinguished motels on the beach and Day-Glo souvenir shops in Kitty Hawk, Kill Devil Hills and Nags Head. Still, some parts retain the charm of the days when tobacco farmers would flock here to seek refuge from the summer heat.
ATTRACTIONS & amp; DISTRACTIONS
KITTY HAWK
Before heading to any Outer Banks destination, pick up maps and guides or look at the ecological exhibits at the Aycock Brown Welcome Center (corner of routes 158 and 12; [252] 261-4644). The somewhat isolated Kitty Hawk Village (Kitty Hawk Road off Route 158, near Milepost 4.5) has 200-year-old homes and an old post office that have been sheltered from the path of destructive hurricanes. Paradise Golf and Arcade (3300 N. Croatan Hwy., [252] 441-7626) is one of several natural-grass minigolf courses in the Outer Banks. Holes are no farther than about 100 feet from the tees, and you can golf all you want for $7.
KILL DEVIL HILLS
The Wright Brothers National Memorial (Milepost 8 off Route 158, [252] 441-7430; $3 a person, children 17 and under free) marks the spot where the First Brothers of Flight -- Wilbur and Orville Wright -- got airborne. This year is the 100th anniversary of that first flight, which will be celebrated there in December. Nags Head Woods Preserve (701 W. Ocean Acres Dr., [252] 441-2525; $3 suggested donation) is the state's most biologically diverse maritime forest, with five miles of trails secluded within 640 acres of wetlands, sand dunes and hardwood trees. Guided walks available.
NAGS HEAD
By far, one of the coolest parts of the Outer Banks is the Saharan landscape of Jockey's Ridge State Park (Milepost 12 off Route 158, [252] 473-2138; free). The tallest sand dune on the East Coast -- 80 to 100 feet, depending on the shifting winds -- is the launching point for hang gliders taking lessons at Kitty Hawk Kites' onsite Hang Gliding Training Center ([877] 359-8447; from $65). If the seaside sunsets stir artistic notions in you but you don't have a lick of talent, turn to the works of the artists who occupy Gallery Row (between routes 12 and 158 near Milepost 10). Ten galleries are within a block of one another, and on summer Wednesdays, the galleries are open for evening art crawls and wine-and-cheese parties.
Can you blame Atlantic bottlenose dolphins for frolicking in the warm waters off the Outer Banks? Seeing them is best done with a team of researchers, such as those from Nags Head Dolphin Watch ([252] 449-8999; $20 adults, $15 children under 12). Three two-hour trips aboard a covered pontoon boat depart daily from Whalebone Water Sports (7517 S. Virginia Dare Trail on the Nags Head-Manteo Causeway). Public greens fees start at $68 a person at the Nags Head Golf Links (5615 S. Seachase Dr., 252-441-8073), next to Roanoke Sound. The grave of the shipwreck Laura Barnes sits at Coquina Beach south of Nags Head. The remains were moved a mile south from where the wooden ship ran ashore in 1921 so the public can view them, according to the National Park Service.
ROANOKE ISLAND
Off the Nags Head-Manteo Causeway is a history-filled island that's ideal for a beach-free day.
SHOPPING
KITTY HAWK
Birthday Suits (2000 N. Croatan Hwy., [252] 441-5338; also in Corolla, Duck and Hatteras) consistently has an impressive stock of bathing suits in a zillion sizes, even in August and September. The town's old fire station is now a wine and food boutique called Firehouse Wine Cellar and Gourmet Foods (4622 N. Virginia Dare Trail, [252] 261-5115). You can't fish and you're weary of restaurants, so drop by the Carawan Seafood Co. (5424 N. Croatan Hwy., [252] 261-2120) for fresh seafood to throw on the grill. It's best to arrive when the shop opens at 10 a.m. to get your pick of the catch.
KILL DEVIL HILLS
In addition to offering art classes, the KDH Cooperative Gallery (502 S. Croatan Hwy., [252] 441-9888) sells the works of its on-site artists. Second Hand Rose (2606 N. Croatan Hwy., [252] 441-0352) is particularly packed with goodies late in the season, when people want to clean out their beach houses. While waiting for a table at Port O' Call restaurant (504 S. Virginia Dare Trail, [252] 441-7484), pick up a catchy fridge magnet or a pair of artsy earrings in the attached gift shop.
NAGS HEAD
On Gallery Row, the Sally Huss Gallery (300 E. Driftwood St., [252] 441-8098) sells brightly colored canvases and greeting cards, along with handcrafted plates, pots and bowls with nautical themes from Ceramics by the Sea in the same space. Artist Glenn Eure shows a wide range of talent in several media at his Ghost Fleet Gallery (210 E. Driftwood St., [252] 441-6584). Kitty Hawk Kites (Milepost 12 on Route 158, [877] 359-8447) is the place for kite fliers looking for a $9.99 single-line kite or a $289.99 ultra-maneuverable stunt kite; the shop has them all -- and even its own crosswalk directly to Jockey's Ridge State Park across the street, if you absolutely can't wait to get airborne. Newman's Shell Shop (4408 Beach Rd., [252] 441-5791) is the oldest souvenir store in the Outer Banks, dating to 1939 and selling shells from around the world. Serious shoppers head to the Tanger Outlet Center (7100 S. Croatan Hwy., [800] 720-6747), with more than two dozen shops such as Nautica, London Fog, Bass Outlet and Coach.
LODGING
KITTY HAWK
The wicker-decked decks and small but tasteful swimming pool at the Summer Place (4424 Seascape Dr., [877] 626-5714; from $155) are a big draw for this cozy B & amp;B. Likewise, the nearby Three Seasons (4628 Seascape Dr., [800] 847-3373; $120), another B & amp;B, is airy, clean and exactly what you imagine in a summer beach house -- even though it's not exactly on the beach but near the Seascape Golf Course. One of the most popular motels is the Beach Haven (4104 Virginia Dare Trail, [888] 559-0506; from $88), with its simply decorated beachfront rooms and picnic area and grill. The basic Outer Banks International Hostel (1004 W. Kitty Hawk Rd., [877] 453-2545; $16 for members, $19 for nonmembers, plus linens and towels fees) is a converted schoolhouse about two miles from the beach. Beds are in shared, air-conditioned dormitories with no curfews.
KILL DEVIL HILLS
The winning Cypress House B & amp;B (500 N. Virginia Dare Trail, [800] 554-2764; from $130) is a converted hunting and fishing lodge. The rooms have a floral/country feel, the common room is stocked with magazines, and owner Leon Faso's eggs Benedict are worth an early rise. Avoid having to look at the high-rise hotels popping up along the beach by staying in one, such as the Comfort Inn Oceanfront North (401 N. Virginia Dare Trail, [800] 854-5286; from $154.99) or the Quality Inn John Yancey (2009 S. Virginia Dare Trail, 800-592-6239; from $109). Both are well-maintained new buildings with family-friendly amenities such as playgrounds, laundry facilities and grills.
NAGS HEAD
The Cabana East Motel (Milepost 11 on Route 12, [800] 683-5505; from $115) is spic-and-span clean and teeming with kiddies in the pool. There also are outdoor showers, a public-use grill and a fish-cleaning station, and all rooms have at least a minifridge and microwave. The historic First Colony Inn (Milepost 16 on Route 12, [800] 368-9390; from $170) is a quiet, 26-room place that's much the same as when it first opened in the 1930s.
PLACES TO EAT
KITTY HAWK
The namesake soup at the Rundown Cafe (Milepost 1 on Route 12, [252] 255-0026) -- a concoction of fish, coconut milk, onions, tomatoes, yams and spices -- is best slurped at the bar while waiting for a table at this vivacious Caribbean-inspired spot. Soup from $3.25, entrees from $11.95. Ocean Boulevard (Milepost 2.5 on Route 12, [252] 261-2546) is an Outer Banks classic, with a dark, exposed-brick dining room, an open kitchen and an inventive menu -- Manchego cheese and bacon whipped potatoes accompanying a hearty chunk of pan-roasted halibut, for example. Dinners from $18. The Black Pelican (Milepost 4 on Route 12, [252] 261-3171) serves a large seafood and meat menu in an old Coast Guard station. Dinners from $9.95. The milkshakes at John's Drive-In (Milepost 4.5 on Route 12, [252] 261-6227) are so thick they should qualify as a meal. Milkshakes from $2.65.
KILL DEVIL HILLS
Know of many brew pubs with their own pastry chefs and house ketchup? The upscale Outer Banks Brewing Station (600 S. Croatan Hwy., [252] 449-2739) serves food that complements the beer, not just absorbs it. Entrees from $14; raw bar from $10. Lodivichie's (800 S. Virginia Dare Trail, [252] 441-8475) is as Italian as you can get in a seafood town. Pizzas, entrees and pasta from $9.95. Although viewless, the well-regarded Flying Fish Cafe (2003 S. Croatan Hwy., [252] 441-6894) is quiet, casual and serves outstanding daily specials. $9.95 entrees before 6 p.m. Stop for a terrifically cheesy exotic drink in a plastic glass shaped like a monkey at Mama Kwan's (1701 S. Croatan Hwy., [252] 441-7889). Goombays (Milepost 7 off Route 12, [252] 441-6001) is best for reasonable lunches and raw bar goodies (both from $5.99).
NAGS HEAD
The Pier House Restaurant (Milepost 12 on Route 12, [252] 441-5141) is a good standby on stilts where you can catch and clean your own fish, have it fried or grilled and then served to you with fries, slaw and hush puppies for $4.50 for lunch or from $5.95 for dinner. If you eat at the Lone Cedar Cafe (Nags Head-Manteo Causeway, [252] 441-5405) expect to carry away half your freshly broiled Spanish mackerel in a foam container. Lunch from $8.95, dinner from $11.95. Tortuga's Lie (Milepost 11 on Route 12, [252] 441-7299), in a small building painted cerulean blue, is the locals' raw bar of choice, so it's always packed. Steamers from $5.95, sushi from $4.50. Sunset views from all tables and a quality wine list go well with the sauteed seafood at Penguin Isle (6708 S. Croatan Hwy., [252] 441-2637). Dinners from $16.