OBESITY Heat continues to rise in debate over fast food

As the debate continues, fast-food chains are introducing healthier foods.
KNIGHT RIDDER NEWSPAPERS
There's no doubt the U.S. population is growing increasingly obese. But who is to blame?
That debate is heating up in courtrooms and boardrooms around the country, as the battle over America's waistline moves to center stage.
The latest volley came this week from the U.S. Chamber of Commerce with a report claiming that the fast-food companies can't be held responsible for the nation's increasing obesity problem. The day before, Kraft Foods -- the maker of Oscar Mayer Lunchables and Oreo cookies -- announced it will cap portion sizes at healthier levels and eliminate in-school marketing.
It's all an indication of the rising heat that food companies are feeling due to the legal attacks by George Washington University law Professor John Banzhaf and others, who are trying to force them to take responsibility for the obesity epidemic.
"There is not a single food company that isn't terrified," Marion Nestle, nutrition department chairwoman at New York University, said in a phone interview. "What they're worried about is that at some point their products are going to be demonized and that will be the end of them."
The lawsuits argue that greasy, calorie-laden hamburgers and french fries are just as much a public health crisis as tobacco. In fact, Banzhaf and his coterie of legal followers are employing many of the same tactics that led to multibillion-dollar judgments against Big Tobacco.
"We are trying to figure out what is the most effective way to use legal action to do something about the problem of obesity," Banzhaf said in a phone interview. "Obviously we're having an impact."
Chamber report
But the chamber report, written by economist Todd Buchholz, counters that the fast-food companies are not to blame for America's increasing girth. The report says the problem lies in the lower cost of food, increased portion sizes, today's sedentary lifestyle and a tendency to snack more.
Instead of blame, Buchholz contends that fast-food companies have actually done a service to the general population by making the cost of protein more affordable.
"Fast food is no more culpable than any other institution," Buchholz said during a news conference Wednesday. "In the end it's about consumer choice."
Nutrition advocates scoff at the notion that willpower alone is to blame for the rising public health crisis.
Since the 1980s, the number of obese adults has doubled to 38.8 million, while the ranks of overweight youths have tripled to nearly 9 million, according to the Department of Health and Human Services.
Margo Wootan, director of nutrition policy at the Center for Science in the Public Interest, called it "irresponsible" for the chamber and the fast-food industry to deny they share in the responsibility for the rising obesity rates.
"Clearly restaurant foods are a problem in American diets," Wootan said in a phone interview. "When people eat out, they don't eat as well. They're eating more fat and larger portions."
In many cases, consumers are encouraged to order larger sizes because it's a better value. At a Burger King or McDonald's it typically costs only a few cents more to supersize the soda or french fries, while the best deals are the combo meals. Typically, the healthier menu options are the most expensive.
Wootan and other nutrition experts want to see menus that include more healthy options and information to let consumers know the amount of calories and fat grams in each entree.
But at Burger King, where the company's trademark is "Have it your way," there are 1,500 ways that a customer can order a Whopper, each one with different calorie and fat totals.
"If we put it all on the menus, our menus would be like phone books," said Rob Doughty, Burger King spokesman. "It's unrealistic and not user-friendly."
Companies take action
Under new chief executive Brad Blum, Burger King has made adding more healthy alternatives to its menu a top priority. One of the first to debut later this year will be a chicken sandwich with roasted vegetables and 4 grams of fat. The Miami-based fast-food chain is also looking at offering diners an opportunity to substitute something for french fries on the combo meal, such as a salad or other healthy alternatives.
Burger King isn't the only one in the industry studying changes.
McDonald's has said this summer it will test a Happy Meal with an option to replace the french fries with a bag of fresh, sliced fruit.
Arby's in June launched a limited-market test of a new line of "bistro" sandwiches, featuring gourmet flavor combinations with higher-quality ingredients and artisan-style breads.