LEATHER AND SUEDE Explosion of color makes a big splash

But the favorites in color can't drown out the continuing popularity of black.
SCRIPPS HOWARD
Designers use leather and suede like they use silk or wool, sculpting everything from jackets to evening gowns. One of the most interesting creations of the season came from provocative, and sometimes controversial, designer Alexander McQueen. He tooled a futuristic black leather bodysuit with ribbed silver panels and cutouts -- not exactly your basic going-to-Kroger outfit.
In the real-world aisle, styles have been cleaned up to appeal to the mainstream.
One of the most important trends is color. There has been a Crayola explosion. Sapphire blue, blush pink and lime green are bright spots. A perennial favorite is red.
The Leather Apparel Association said to look for neutrals such as camel, caramel, cognac and chocolate brown. The jewel tones --burgundy, garnet and plum -- appear on the varied palette as well. Another unexpected shade, winter white, is creating a little seasonal sizzle. Metallics such as bronze, pewter and silver shine, too.
Basic black
The splash of color can't drown out the popularity of black.
"Black is always the biggest seller," said Gail Rackley, manager of Cache in Knoxville's West Town Mall. "It's slimming, and it goes with anything. You can dress it up or down. People will come into the store and say, 'I want color, color, color,' but they always end up with black."
Whether leather or suede, the pieces run the gamut. Among the must-haves is the vest.
"Anything in a vest has done really well," said Mertie Elliott, owner of Clothes by Mertie. "Most of them have been really colorful or trimmed in fur or fringe."
The vest's appeal is simple.
"It's not so hot," Elliott said, "and it doesn't bind people. Also, it can go to work, or it can be casual-smart."
Another winner is pants.
"Nothing looks better than a pair of black leather pants," Rackley said. "Every woman needs them."
They are available in a variety of silhouettes. The boot-cut low risers are still high on the list; however, straight-leg, regular-rise versions are in demand as well.
Skirts hit all the key points. Thigh-high minis are red-hot, while just-above-the-knee A-lines offer a more modest yet fashionable alternative. Longer skirts that caress the calves are naturals with boots.
Jackets are shorter and fitted this year, many of them zippered. Several makers have crafted suede -- or leather -- front cardigans with knit sleeves and backs. The traditional blazer silhouette is a staple, while more unstructured shirt styles make luxurious lightweight layers. Details include topstitching, laces, small pockets, studs and multiple zippers.
Suede
Elliott's pick of the season: The suede jacket.
"I would buy one in one of the bright colors," she said. "It's a good investment piece. You can wear it right into spring and get a six-month wear time out of it."
Elliott said the jacket and the vest speak to the market, which is item-driven.
"Women need things to put with those black bottoms," she said. "This is an easy way for them to add things to their wardrobe."
Rackley recommends a leather suit in black or winter-white, because of its versatility.