Hoodoo heaven

Scenic byways traverse Bryce and Zion, butthe best way to seethe parks is on foot.
By CATHY SECKMAN
VINDICATOR CORRESPONDENT
TROPIC, Utah -- Mormon pioneer Ebenezer Bryce came to southwestern Utah in 1875 to raise cattle. He only stayed five years, and apparently didn't like it much.
Just to the west of his tiny log cabin was a sprawling area of rock formations and canyons that were, he said, "a hell of a place to lose a cow."
Though Ebenezer moved on, helping to settle Utah and Arizona, the canyons stayed, and acquired his name. Today, Bryce Canyon National Park hosts a million and a half visitors per year, and none of them find any cows.
Bryce is smaller and more accessible than the Grand Canyon, and a good argument could be made that it's prettier. Extraordinary salmon-pink pinnacles called hoodoos climb the canyon walls and erode into fanciful formations like The Poodle, Bryce Amphitheater, Sinking Ship and Thor's Hammer.
Seeing the park
An 18-mile road runs the length of the park and includes many overlooks that offer 100-mile views of buttes, mesas and ranks upon ranks of hoodoos. Because all the overlooks are on the road's east side, visitors are encouraged to drive straight through to the southern end, then visit the overlooks on the way back. Limited shuttle service is available in the summer. There are vehicle-length restrictions in some areas of the park.
The best way to see the park is on foot, and hiking trails are plentiful and user-friendly. Choose the easy 1.8-mile Queen's Garden trail from Sunrise Point, or the more difficult 3-mile Tower Bridge Trail just north of the point. For serious hikers there's the 8-mile Fairyland Loop from rarely visited Fairyland Point. An Under-the-Rim Trail for backcountry overnight hikers runs nearly the length of the park.
We chose the 1.3-mile Navajo Loop Trail at Sunset Point, rated as moderate for multiple switchbacks that descend to a narrow slot canyon punctuated by skinny Douglas firs. A large group of French tourists was in front of us, and a larger Japanese group behind, but the switchbacks made it easy to lose sight of other hikers and feel alone in the wilderness.
Every turn in the trail opens up a new and spectacular view, and the geology changes dramatically with the elevation. The rocks and red dirt of the upper trail give way to isolated fir trees in the middle, then miniature pastures and wildflower gardens at the bottom. Climbing up takes at least twice as long as climbing down, but it's not as difficult as it looks. Even in a light rain, hiking in Bryce Canyon was a definite vacation highlight.
Zion National Park
Not far from Bryce, Zion National Park provides another sensory overload with completely different scenery.
We came through the east entrance on the 10-mile Zion-Mount Carmel Highway, a looping, climbing, diving, tunneling road that we shared with dozens of antique car buffs on an autumn outing. Pierce Arrows and Model T's putt-putted along with us, their occupants dressed in white dusters and English racing caps. Despite an occasional drizzle of rain, everyone was happy, waving cheerily as we passed them on the uphills and slowing obligingly for photos on the downhills.
Unique features of the highway are the deep windows cut into canyon walls to allow light into the long and winding tunnels. Because of those tunnels, there are height and length restrictions on vehicles.
Once inside the park, visitors switch to shuttle buses for the six-mile trip on Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. The drive offers spectacular roadside scenery at frequent shuttle stops, including the Court of the Patriarchs and the Grotto. Near Weeping Rock, one can look hundreds of feet up from the roadside and see rock climbers precariously attached to the sheer cliff face. Permits, hardware, and technical experience are required for many of the popular climbs in the park. Some climbers stay on the cliff faces overnight, sleeping in hammocks.
Near Big Bend is a narrow mesa known as Angel's Landing, which amateur climbers can ascend with a bit of effort, though the trail isn't recommended for those fearful of heights.
At the far end of the scenic drive is the Temple of Sinawava, a semi-circular cathedral of stone that dwarfs visitors and imparts a sacred feel to the surroundings.
A Human History Museum in the center of the park offers an orientation film and exhibits on human influences in the canyon. The northwest section of the park, Kolob Canyons, features a 14-mile trail to Kolob Arch, thought to be the world's largest freestanding stone arch.
The biggest mistake tourists make in these parks is not allowing enough time to see them. It would be easy to spend a week in either park, sampling the hiking trails, taking a field institute class and visiting the exhibits. Bicycling is popular in both parks, and Zion is especially known for rock climbing. If you go, take good hiking shoes, lots of film, and plenty of time.