48 hours in the Big Apple



It doesn't take a lot of time to see a lot of sights in New York City, but a lot of planning helps for a good trip.
By KELLIE JONES HUPRICH
VINDICATOR STAFF WRITER
So, you've been thinking about making a trip to New York City, but you're a little hesitant to board a plane these days. Or, perhaps the thought of driving to -- and in -- the Big Apple appeals to you even less. Maybe you're overwhelmed by the amount of events going on and places to visit in the city. Then again, maybe you only have a couple of days to spend in the city and don't think it's worth the trip.
All legitimate concerns, all ones I've had. Let me tell you, though: It's worth the trip.
In case you're concerned about being away from work or missing the family too much, 48 hours in the Big Apple can be just the right amount of time to sample some of the best the city has to offer. New York officials have been on a big push to lure visitors back to the city after the Sept. 11, 2001, terrorist attacks on the World Trade Center, so you can take advantage of some great deals just by doing a little bit of homework.
The seed for my trip was planted sometime over the summer, when my friend Shirley and I talked about going to catch a Broadway show. Organization is our specialty, so we started planning -- something I'd recommend to any potential visitor to any city.
Getting started
We chose sights we'd like to see, aiming for a mix of traditional, touristy and trendy. Mapping out the stops by grouping them together in geographical location was the next step. We bought New York passes, where the cost of the pass ($39) covers admission and discounts for dozens of attractions. With a few phone calls, we made reservations at restaurants and for tours. Booking and building the itinerary for your own trip isn't hard, it just takes some time and an eye for details. Here, the Internet is a handy convenience. Since we would be there on a Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday in early October, we didn't anticipate getting shut out by crowds, but we didn't want to take any chances.
We debated driving over flying, but several checks online led us to decide that flying was the way to go.
Given enough time, you can get great airfares, although do check the fine print. These days, some airlines will charge you to fly stand-by, so arriving for your flight in plenty of time is crucial not only to your plans, but to your wallet, as well. Recently, AirTran Airways announced nonstop, round-trip flights from Akron-Canton airport to New York for less than $100.
Pack light to avoid having to lug your stuff around. Also, be prepared for security checks: At Akron-Canton airport, we went through two checkpoints; in Pittsburgh, there was none. Plan for at least one.
Once we arrived at LaGuardia, we took the Super Shuttle into Manhattan. The shuttle turned out to be a time waster and no money saver. It cost $16 each plus tip for our 90-minute shuttle ride, while a cab to the airport was a flat $30 plus tip, which got us there in a third of the time.
Shirley had reserved a room for us at the Wellington Hotel in midtown Manhattan. The hotel, a 700-room building in the theater district, provided us with a comfortable, two-room suite that included a kitchenette.
The hotel's biggest selling point, without a doubt, is its location. Not only is it on the subway line, it's also just a minute from Carnegie Hall and within reasonable walking distance of FAO Schwarz, Rockefeller Center and Times Square. ("Reasonable walking distance" to me means you'll get there without hiking for hours. I'm no marathon walker, and this was quite manageable.) Lucille Yokell, TITLE, said the hotel gets quite a lot of repeat business -- from international groups to student groups coming to Broadway to performers such as the St. Petersburg Philharmonic.
And we're off!
After checking in, we headed to the Jekyll & amp; Hyde Club for lunch. To get an idea of the place, picture Disney's Haunted Mansion serving food and you'll be right on target.
Much like the other theme parks I've visited, go for the atmosphere, not necessarily the food, which was average. During lunch, characters such as Scarlett O'Harlot and Anemia the Chambermaid kept the patrons amused with their banter. Animatronics add to the fun, and you'll find yourself trying to catch the portraits' eyes moving. The kids in the restaurant loved the characters, corny jokes and all. It's definitely family-friendly, and after eating, you can explore four ghoulish floors: The Grand Salon, The Library, The Laboratory and The Armory.
After lunch, we took the NBC Studio Tour, where we saw the sets of "Dateline NBC," "NBC Nightly News with Tom Brokaw" and "Saturday Night Live." After seeing the tiny set of "SNL," I'm convinced the people behind that show either have a whole other studio they use or they're just good at "I Dream of Jeannie"-blinking during commercials -- it's that small. The tour is informative and interactive at times, not the least bit dull or boring. If you time it right, you might get to see some of the network's stars working.
Our next stop was FAO Schwarz, billed as "the ultimate toy store." It is indeed the toy mecca. The store's three floors of toys will keep you occupied for a long time -- even longer if you've got a youngster with you. Christmas there must be like stepping into Santa's workshop.
After our two-hour stay at FAO, it was time to head back to the hotel and figure out dinner. Monday night was the only unplanned time we had, figuring we might need a break from the walking. On suggestion from our doorman, Raymond, we went to Mariella Pizza on 57th for authentic New York pizza. The little eatery didn't disappoint us, and the thin-crust slices ended up being Shirley's favorite meal of the trip. Sometimes, not having plans pays off, and asking natives to suggest a spot is a good way to taste the "real" city you're visiting.
At the end of Day One, this tourist was only too happy to call it an early night and get to sleep by 10, since Tuesday's schedule was full.
DAY TWO
With a fresh start Tuesday morning, we took a taxi to the Empire State Building. It was one of many taxis that day, all worth the cab fare but a little rough on passengers not used to breakneck speeds and stopping on a dime.
At the Empire State Building, we headed up to the Observation Deck for one of the best views of New York. By 10 a.m., the deck was crowded. Give yourself time to work up to the front of the railing for the best shots. If you want to learn more about what you're seeing, rent the audio tour for $5.
Just a short elevator ride away from the Observation Deck is the New York Skyride. Fans of theme-park simulator rides might enjoy this, which is included in the price of the NYC Pass. I didn't. The ride was rough and didn't sit well right after breakfast.
Close by the Empire State Building was our next stop, Macy's. It's a shopping experience that tourists will enjoy, even if it's only to say "I've been there!" while watching the big Thanksgiving Day parade. We bought souvenirs and strolled down the aisles. I can only imagine what the store looks like when it's decked out for the holidays.
For lunch, it was off to Grand Central Station to eat at Junior's Restaurant. Funny thing about New York eateries -- for a city in which people might seem so distant, you eat in very close quarters. I was reminded of that puzzle with one open square, where you move the squares around to solve the picture. Eating at Junior's was very much like that: Move one table to get through, move another to sit down, even another to let people out. At least it gives you a chance to meet folks, if you're so inclined.
Junior's is a cross between touristy and traditional, with many N.Y. natives there enjoying the pickles and beets that arrive at your table soon after you do. Although it was packed at lunchtime, the service was extremely quick, as were the waiters. We had delicious deli-style sandwiches and fries, managing to save some room for Junior's famous cheesecake. Walk off those extra calories by exploring Grand Central Station, if you've got the time.
Times Square
If you're anxious to get back above ground, take the subway for a quick ride to Times Square. I've heard horror stories about the safety and uncleanliness of the New York subway, but didn't experience that firsthand. We found it to be clean and efficient, with friendly passengers around us. That friendliness came in handy when several of us had to ask which stop we were at, since it's pretty tough to figure out where we were from the "wah wah wah" Charlie-Brown-teacher's voice over the intercom.
In Times Square, we headed for Madame Tussaud's Wax Museum, my choice for one of the most fun stops on our tour. There, you can really get up-close and personal with some of your favorite celebrities, many of whom are posed for you to step in for a photo. I'm not sure if technology gets better or the artists working on the wax sculptures get better, but I thought the newer figures were more realistic than ones done more than a few years' back. Robin Williams enraptured me; Shirley thought Al Roker was the most realistic.
While I'd recommend the museum for families, there are parts that may be too violent and gory for kids. To the museum's credit, there are signs warning visitors of such, and alternative routes are offered.
Before heading to the theater that night, we stopped at the Heartland Brewery & amp; Chophouse on West 43rd Street for appetizers. The brewery boasts of more than 200 selections of beer, including a spicy pumpkin ale appropriate for a crisp October night. We settled for crab cakes and buffalo spring rolls, just enough after the foodfest at Junior's earlier. For theatergoers with an appetite, there's a prix fixe menu, which looked like a great deal with plenty of food.
Showtime
Finally, it was time for "Rent." We walked a couple of blocks to the Nederlander Theatre, excited to experience the Broadway crowd and one of the main reasons for our visit. We weren't disappointed.
Joey Fatone, of *NSync fame, is starring as the lead, Mark. He held his own next to Justin A. Johnston and Karmine Alers, who turned in stellar performances as Angel and Mimi, respectively. For anyone who has lost friends or loved ones to complications of AIDS, "Rent" proved touching and poignant. However, don't think it's without its upbeat moments. The soundtrack, which includes the beautiful "Seasons of Love," is full of contemporary rock with plenty of humor that shines in songs such as "Over the Moon" and "Tango: Maureen."
The audience that night clearly enjoyed "Rent," giving a standing ovation to the cast. Despite the draw that Fatone might bring to the Nederlander -- and there were several *NSync fans in attendance, it seemed -- it would be the performance of Johnston as the Mrs.-Claus-suit-wearin', boogeying-in-high-heels drag queen Angel that would bring me back.
We topped off the evening by going to Chelsea to check out a new nightclub on the New York scene, Suede. From all reports I've read since our visit, Suede has continued to grow as a place to see and be seen.
The trendy club wasn't as big as I'd expected, but it was certainly packed. While the drinks were a bit pricey, there was no cover at the door -- just a very discriminating doorman. Tuesday nights are also known as "Joey's Party" (that's "Rent" star Joey Fatone), so celebrity spotting was an amusing pastime. Aside from Fatone (a very gracious host, I'm happy to say, and, according to Shirley, one who "smells really good"), we saw Robert Iler of "The Sopranos," Trevor Penick and Ashley Parker Angel of boy band O-Town and rapper Fat Joe.
Had I been a little closer to my club-going days, I would have enjoyed the mix of '80s and current dance hits more. These days, with a 1-year-old daughter, 2 a.m. is bedtime, not party time. Still, for a taste of New York nightlife with a hip crowd, check out Suede, but be prepared to experience a little bit of attitude at the door (file that bit under "traditional").
DAY THREE
On Day Three, we packed up after what seemed like only a few hours of sleep. We headed back to Chelsea to meet some friends and go to Tea & amp; Sympathy.
Ah, Tea & amp; Sympathy. For four years, since my last visit to New York, I've been dreaming about going back to this minuscule British eatery.
Inside, there are 10 tables, a great sense of humor and loads of scrumptious food. T & amp;S does a wonderful, traditional English "brekkie" of English bacon, sausage and a seven-grain bread that's out of this world. Ditto for the bread-and-butter pudding with warm custard (sigh). The eatery was recommended by my friends -- a Brit and an Anglophile -- who swore T & amp;S is the real deal. I've not been to England, but if this is the real deal, I don't know how British food gets such a bad rap.
Here's an eatery where eating and running aren't considered rude. Signs on the door and in the menus urge you to clear out when you're done to let someone else enjoy their meal. (Note from me: If you see someone standing outside who has waited four years for a slice of seven-grain toast, be considerate and hurry along. Thanks).
Ground zero
Ground zero was our final stop. We'd both heard from people that it was just a big construction site and there wasn't much to see. That's true, in a way. Nearby buildings are covered with a black mesh, and barricades and gates are up to prevent visitors from getting too close.
For me, going to the site brought up a mix of emotions. On my last trip, I'd been to Windows on the World, the restaurant at the top of the World Trade Center. In its place was a gaping hole.
Being at ground zero was like the first time I visited the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, D.C., and found the name of the first boy killed from my hometown, a friend of my mother's. I didn't know him, just as I didn't know the victims of the terrorist attack, but the profound sadness and the anger represented on the memorial and at ground zero made my heart ache for them as if they were family.
Across the street, at St. Paul's Chapel, the gates are full of signs, banners, photos, stuffed toys, T-shirts, hats and more paper cranes than I could dare to count. In the thousands of items there, we found one from Lakeview Schools in Cortland, a bit of home in the sentiments from all over the world. Overall, the heartfelt messages on the weather-worn items resonate with a single one: We won't forget. I know after visiting the site, I'll never forget.
Although the trip was ending on a somber note, it was a great balance to the fun 48 hours we'd just completed, definitely worth the walking and extra waking hours.
So, if you're inclined to visit the Big Apple, take this advice: Plan. Explore. Enjoy.