GET 'EM THERE ALIVE Moving experience for houseplants

Help your plants adjust to a move, and be mindful of any regulations concerning their transport.
PLANNING
As with the rest of your household goods, moving house plants to a new home involves planning. Whether you have only a few plants or dozens, there are decisions to make:
* to move them yourself, or rely on the moving company
* whether to take every plant, only favorites, or just cuttings for starting new plants
* when to arrange for any necessary state inspections
* when and how to start preparing plants for the move
Finally, you must realize that it's possible that not all house plants will withstand a move in spite of every precaution. Delicate and water-loving plants such as coleus and Boston fern may not survive. There's no one to blame -- it's simply the nature of the plant.
Things you will need to know to begin planning include:
MODES OF TRANSPORTATION
AUTOMOBILE
By moving your house plants in the family car, you'll have much more control over environmental conditions than if they are moved by any other method:
* Some control over car temperature
* no problems with light or ventilation
* can water them as necessary
* can load plants at last minute and unload them immediately upon arrival at destination
House plants moved by you should suffer a minimal amount of damage.
A special note: Avoid carrying plants in the car trunk, which can become exceedingly hot in summer and freezing during winter.
MOVING SERVICE
According to Interstate Commerce Commission regulations, a moving company can move perishable plants on a van under the following conditions:
* the shipment is transported not more than 150 miles and/or delivery accomplished within 24 hours from time of loading
* no storage is required
* no preliminary or en route servicing or watering or other preservative method is required of the carrier
Be sure to discuss moving house plants with your moving agent. He can help you select the best way to transport them to your new home.
AIR FREIGHT
Airlines accept house plants as air freight. It's your responsibility to see that the plants are carefully packaged, labeled, accompanied by any necessary inspection certificates, delivered to the air terminal in time, and picked up at destination. Freight charges are payable in advance.
Normally, plants shipped by air receive no special handling and may be subjected to temperature extremes and other uncontrollable conditions. It's advisable to think twice before using this form of transportation. If you do decide to ship via air, contact local nurseries for suggestions on packing.
FEDERAL AND STATE REGULATIONS
Persons planning to move house plants from one state to another should be aware of federal and state regulations. The following information applies only to individuals who are moving decorative house plants as part of their household goods. (Regulations governing commercial shipments and all plants and shrubs maintained out-of-doors are more stringent. If you are planning to move outdoor or commercial plants -- including trees and shrubs -- be sure to contact the Department of Agriculture in your destination state well in advance of your move.)
PLANT QUARANTINES
Federal and state plant quarantines restrict the movement of plants that may harbor destructive pests. Before these plants can legally be moved from a quarantined area, they must be cleared by a federal or state plant protection official.
Destructive pests now under federal or state quarantine include (but are not limited to) the gypsy moth, imported fire ant, Japanese beetle, golden or burrowing nematode, and citrus canker. Among other plant pests are brown garden snail, European corn borer, grub worms, mealybugs, scale insects, spider mites, sweet potato weevil and whiteflies.
STATE REGULATIONS
Seven states require that all house plants be inspected and certified "pest free" before they are moved to destination. Although most states do not require certification, plants are expected to be free of all insects and diseases. Indoor plants should be in a commercial plant mix -- not soil or sand taken from the outdoors. If your house plants are potted in outdoor soil or if they have been placed outside for any length of time, the plants should be repotted into a commercial type of soil. All plants entering Hawaii, however, must be free of soil, sand and earth -- as well as insects and diseases.
In some states, certain plant species are prohibited or may require special certification stating that a specific pest is not present in the plant.
Some states, such as California, mandate that any plant material must be declared and inspected at the border. House plants can be declared by writing on the inventory list the number of plants included in the shipment. Boxes containing plants should be marked "LOAD LAST" for ready access at an agricultural inspection station.
When traveling to destination, most states permit transit of uncertified, healthy house plants as long as the plants remain in the vehicle and are not aired at any stops.
Time can be saved if plants are accompanied by a state-of-origin inspection certificate, in the event of any border or random inspection.
OBTAINING CERTIFICATION
If the state to which you are moving requires state-of-origin certification of house plants, state and/or federal pest control officials will provide inspection services, certificates, and any necessary treatment.
You must personally arrange for inspection of your house plants by an authorized Department of Agriculture inspector.
* Call the county office of your state Department of Agriculture and set a mutually agreeable date to have your plants inspected. Preferably, this should be done three to four weeks, but no less than two, before moving day to allow time for inspection and any treatment needed.
* You may have to take your plants to the nearest office for inspection and possible treatment in fumigation chambers. Or, the plant inspector may merely dip the plants in a protective solution at your home. Charges for this services vary from state to state.
Whether plants are moved in your car, on a moving van, or by some other means of transport, the inspection certificate must accompany the house plants to destination.
GENERAL TIPS
SHOCK
Unfortunately, some house plants are susceptible to shock when moved (sometimes even from one room to another). The distance moved or time in transit doesn't make the shock greater -- it will simply take the plants longer to recover.
TEMPERATURE
By far the most critical factor in transporting house plants is temperature. Prolonged exposure to either excessive heat or cold is detrimental to most, and temperatures below 35 F or above 95-100 F for much over an hour can be fatal to many. Some plants, such as dieffenbachia, cannot survive below 45 F.
Plants in cartons that are properly wrapped will stand quite a variation in temperature without actually being adversely affected. Cushioning materials will provide some insulation but cannot be depended on to maintain a steady temperature. It is inadvisable to transport plants in unheated vehicles when the temperature is approaching the freezing point.
WATER
Most house plants can stand up to a week or 10 days without watering and suffer little harm. Overwatering is one of the major causes of plant failure, since the roots of many rot if they are too wet.
Plants should be moist when placed in cartons. Waved cartons will help keep moisture in; so will plastic trash bags of suitable size used as carton liners. If you plan to use newsprint as a cushioning material, remember that it absorbs moisture and loses its resiliency when wet or damp, whereas bubble pack and molded foam do not.
DARKNESS/LIGHT
When other conditions are favorable, house plants can stand darkness for up to a week without adverse effects. But plants left in darkness too long start to put out abnormal, weak growth, which is more susceptible to disease.
When first exposing plants to light after a long period in darkness, avoid possible wilting and sunscald. Keep the plants from direct exposure to the sun until they can be placed in locations comparable to those in which they previously thrived.
CUTTINGS
For convenience and to save space, you may prefer to take cuttings of your favorite house plants if they can be propagated that way. Most cuttings will survive for several days if kept in a plastic bag containing damp vermiculite, peat moss or perlite, or even wrapped in a wet paper towel. However, potted plants have a much greater chance of surviving a long trip than do cuttings.
PREPARATION FOR MOVING
CHECKLIST OF THINGS TO DO
THREE TO FOUR WEEKS BEFORE MOVING
* Arrange for official inspection and certification of your house plants if this is a requirement of your destination state. If the plants or soil is infested, thorough treatment for a week or 10 days before moving is usually required, with reinspection before a certificate can be issued. Keep the certificate in a safe place. It must accompany the plants whether you are moving them yourself or they are being transported on the moving van.
* If no certification is required, inspect the plants yourself and treat for any plant pests that might be discovered. This is a must if your destination state inspects house plants on arrival.
* Decide whether you want to transfer plants from clay to plastic pots. Although clay pots are a little more vulnerable to damage than plastic ones, careful packing will go a long way toward eliminating any breakage.
* Compact plants are easier to handle than spreading ones; a little pruning may be in order. However, excessive pruning of a plant can be harmful. Don't sacrifice the plant's health for manageability.
TWO WEEKS TO 10 DAYS BEFORE MOVING
* Keep your plants a bit on the dry side until shortly before moving. Remember that plants in plastic pots do not need watering as often as those in clay pots; excess water evaporates through the clay pots but not through plastic ones.
* Start collecting packaging materials; wood flats (used by growers for shipping strawberries; cherries, etc.), newspapers, plastic trash bags, lightweight cardboard, and strong corrugated cardboard cartons. Cartons waxed on the inside are ideal for moving plants; they are sturdier than those of conventional cardboard and keep moisture in. Dish packs, available from the moving company at reasonable cost, are easily adaptable for moving house plants; bubble wrap and molded foam are excellent cushioning materials.
THE DAY BEFORE MOVING
* Water plants well and let excess water drain away. Note: This does not apply to cacti and other plants whose natural habitat is dry; these plants should be carefully packed to allow the free passage of air.
* Assemble plants and packing materials in a convenient area.
* Wrap each pot in aluminum foil or polyethylene film, so moisture will not seep through and weaken cushioning materials or cartons. (This step is not necessary if nonabsorbent materials are being used.)
* Large or tall plants are more easily handled if the branches are bound loosely against the main stem in the direction of growth by a soft band that will not cause injury (discarded nylon hose, for example). Plants with weak stems should be staked and tied the same way.
* Make funnel-shaped plant "sleeves" from lightweight cardboard, or obtain them from a local florist. Slip each potted plant into one from the top, so foliage will be protected. Or fasten one or more around a tall plant.
* If waxed cartons are not available, line boxes with polyethylene film. Large size plastic trash bags work well. The plastic lining retains moisture while keeping the cardboard carton dry.
* If at all possible, leave the actual packing until moving day.
MOVING DAY
* Carefully pack plants into prepared cartons, cushioning them with crushed newspaper or other shock-absorbing materials so they won't move around. Try to keep plants of similar size together, and use cartons that are an inch or more higher than the tallest plants.
* Tall or heavy plants are more easily handled individually. Set the plant into a carton of suitable size, wedging it securely in place with cushioning materials. A carton that opens from the side is easiest to use.
* Hanging planters should be placed at one end or in the center of a long horizontal box or tray filled with suitable cushioning material. The trailing foliage is then laid carefully on top of the cushioning in the remainder of the box.
* Place terrariums in cartons of suitable size and wedge in place with cushioning materials. Remove any terrarium ornaments that might shift and pack them separately.
* If you are moving the plants yourself, it's unnecessary to close the cartons unless they will be stacked on top of each other in the car. When traveling, park the car in the shade if the weather is hot; in the sun if it's cold. If the moving company is transporting the plants, mark the cartons in big letters. PLANTS -- FRAGILE -- THIS SIDE UP. If the weather is hot, avoid setting the cartons in the sun for any length of time before loading on the van. They should be loaded last and unloaded first.
* Be sure to give the van operator any applicable plant inspection certificates.
AT DESTINATION
* Unpack the plants carefully without delay and check their condition. You may find it easier to remove plants from cardboard cartons by cutting around the bottom edge of the carton and lifting it off.
* Place plants in locations similar to the ones they occupied in your old home. Leave them alone except for normal watering. Fussing with them or moving them from room to room will only delay their recuperation from moving shock. Remember, plants are as individual as people, so one may take much longer to recover than another.
Source: United Van Lines