ACCESSORIES Make little black dress fit any occasion

The black dress is a great social equalizer that can be personalized with the proper accessories.
KNIGHT RIDDER NEWSPAPERS
Designer Bill Blass was no fan of black evening wear for women.
"When in doubt, wear red," he liked to say, a sentiment born of the hundreds of times he'd walked into a chi-chi party and gazed with dismay upon a sea of black -- the women in their black dresses barely distinguishable from the men in their black dinner jackets.
But as most women well know, the little black dress is the great social equalizer. It's the equivalent of a man's dark suit -- correct, appropriate and versatile.
Accessorized thoughtfully, the same little black dress can go to a dinner party, a theater opening or the coolest club in town. It can look tastefully festive for the office party and all-out glam for New Year's Eve.
The trick is to pick the right dress.
And that is the biggest challenge, because this is one time where you don't want to go for the most spectacular thing in the store. You want just the opposite -- a dress that will be a neutral canvas on which you will display both your accessories and your personality.
Audrey Hepburn is a role model who elevated the little black dress to mythic heights in a string of movies. No more so, of course, than in "Breakfast at Tiffany's," where she wore the same black Givenchy sheath through much of the movie, somehow making it appropriate for everything from sipping cocktails at 21 to paying a visit to Sing Sing.
Your goal, thankfully, is not so extreme. So here, then, are some guidelines for choosing the perfect little black dress -- and what to do with it when you find it.
Simplicity is key
The little black dress should have a sense of ease and comfort. You should be able to walk, dance and eat a decent meal in it.
The fabric should be a rich, solid black. Velvet is beautiful for the cold months. For the warm ones, look for silk, crepe or satin.
The dress should have no beads, frills, embroidery, trailing ribbons, decorative buttons, chiffon overlays, lace panels or contrasting trims. These things make the dress too memorable and take away much of its versatility.
The lines of the dress should skim the body, suggesting the waistline. The hemline should hover at or slightly below the knee.
A sleeveless style is best, if you have the arms for it. If not, go for short or three-quarter sleeves, which will be comfortable most of the year. Avoid strapless and spaghetti-strapped dresses, because they are too provocative for many occasions.
The dress should have a neckline meant for jewelry, so you can easily accessorize. Crew necks and moderate V-necks offer the most options, compatible with both necklaces and pins.
Once you've found the perfect dress, you can build a collection of accessories to wear with it. The accessories don't have to be expensive, but they should make a statement -- a bold splash, even.
Resist this impulse.
Instead of lots of little accessories, choose one or two with impact: A big rhinestone brooch at the shoulder, paired with small drop earrings and a cocktail ring.
If you're wearing pearls, drape your neck and wrists with several chunky strands and keep the rest simple. This is the signature style of Coco Chanel, the legendary French designer who created the little black dress and made it chic to pile on the costume jewelry.
If you go the bohemian route with ornate beaded bracelets, wear them from wrist to elbow but skip a necklace and keep your earrings small.
A black dress is the perfect foil for a fabulous evening bag. Try a satin bag in the shape of a carry-out box for Chinese food. Look for a clutch with a laminated surfaces that resembles Bakelite. Carry an Art Deco pouch covered in a layer of wispy feathers.
Imaginative touches
Above all, don't hesitate to think outside the box. Pierced earrings can be worn as pins along the neckline. A long necklace might double as a hip-slung belt. A brooch can be pinned to the front of your evening bag to add a little color.
This creative thinking applies to the dress as well. Think of it as part of a suit, pairing it with a variety of little jackets and sweaters. A hip-length jacket in a shiny, bright fabric adds a festive note. A black sweater with a fur collar ups the elegance factor. An embroidered bolero or shawl gives the ensemble some whimsy.
As for shoes, they can be as simple or as elaborate as you want them to be. You can look for one serviceable pair of black satin pumps to wear with everything -- slingbacks are comfortable and pretty -- or you can indulge yourself with a wardrobe of evening shoes to suit any occasion.
When you start with a little black dress, you can be sure you will step out in style.