FASHION The suit is at home in the workplace

It's back to business for work clothes this year.
ASSOCIATED PRESS
NEW YORK -- Over the past few years, the power suit has gone from being a status symbol to a joke.
But who's laughing now?
Surely not all the people who are dusting off those suits and heading out to a job interview after the spate of layoffs in several formerly business-casual industries.
"On the first interview, take no chances: Wear the dark suit," advises Kim Johnson Gross, co-author of "Dress Smart Women: Wardrobes That Win in the New Workplace" (Warner Books). "Then be adaptable with color and accessories.
She says a job applicant has seven seconds to make an impression on the interviewer, who will be looking at stance, demeanor and wardrobe.
"You are presenting an image of yourself and what you would say about the image of your firm," Johnson Gross explains.
Johnson Gross, who, with co-author Jeff Stone, also wrote the companion book "Dress Smart Man," says she intended to create a tool book, not a fashion book, that reflects the current economy.
Not that Johnson Gross, the former fashion director of Esquire and fashion editor of Town & amp; Country, tells you cheap tricks for dressing well; some of the featured clothes and accessories in the books come from Chanel, Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren and Manolo Blahnik for women and Ermenegildo Zegna, Brooks Brothers and Cole Haan for men. Instead, she focuses on buying wisely and looking professional by combining classic and, yes, more expensive, pieces with less expensive items that can update a wardrobe but aren't too precious to toss in a few years when they go out of style.
Breakdown
Johnson Gross breaks down clothes into the three categories, basics that never go out of style, contemporary classics that have a long-yet-limited life and "of-the-moment" fashion pieces.
Women are more likely to have a mix of all of the above in their closets because they are more confident in workplace dressing. Despite changes in office dress codes, many men were stuck with a shirt and tie only because they didn't feel comfortable in making business-casual decisions, Johnson Gross says.
But, she notes, both sexes are faced with the same balancing acts: How much personality should one allow in their outfit? How to stand out from the crowd without sticking out like a sore thumb?
As for personality, Johnson Gross says less is more. "You want to inspire confidence more than you want to express your personal style."
Accessories are an acceptable venue to make a small statement as long as the watch, shoes, bag or scarf is in good condition, she advises. Even a detailed button, such as a pearl, beaded or patterned version, says something about the wearer without saying it loudly.
Putting together outfits that are more professional than too-sloppy colleagues but don't intimidate the boss can be tricky, Johnson Gross acknowledges.
"It's a big concern," she says. "You don't want to be disrespectful by being underdressed -- that's like bad table manners.
"But don't dress better than your boss," she says. "Just present yourself in the best and appropriate manner."
Invest in a suit
The best investment, she says, is a suit.
In the book, the authors recommend women buy suit separates for more versatility and to better ensure a proper fit. The color should be neutral -- black says sophisticated while gray, navy and beige convey confidence. But, they say, "Beware of brown. It is seasonal, can come off as muddy (not meticulous), and is often incompatible with other colors."
A lightweight wool can be worn year-round, and a fabric with a touch of Lycra, polyester or other microfiber can help the garment keep its shape.
For men, Johnson Gross and Stone say the suit should be navy. "It's sophisticated enough to wear anywhere, any time, any season."
The classic cut is a single-breasted, two-button jacket with medium lapels, and either flat-front or pleated pants. (Both are OK, according to the book, but flat is more slimming.)
From there, build one great outfit with sensible-yet-stylish shirts and accessories, and, after you get the job, continue to build on the same themes.
"Looking sharp doesn't stop once the interview is over -- there is always someone further up the food chain, which means there is always someone for whom you need to look smart," write Johnson Gross and Stone.