SEWING Pattern-making techniques will yield professional results

Plain garments can be transformed into eye-catching attire.
By SUSAN KHALJE
SCRIPPS HOWARD
I saw a great-looking knee-length straight skirt the other day -- and what set an otherwise ordinary design apart were a few seams added to the back panels. If you've never gone beyond the confines of your pattern, a few simple steps in design and pattern making will open a new world of design possibilities.
The skirt I saw had a center back seam, and matching diagonal seams in each of the back skirt panels. This little bit of extra seaming elevated a simple design into one that was eye-catching, and it showed that a little bit of extra care had gone into the design and execution of the skirt.
The easiest way to begin playing around with patterns is to create a muslin (a working copy of the garment in an inexpensive fabric, such as unbleached muslin). You're free to draw potential design lines or treatments onto the fabric itself, or you can do what many designers do: pin a length of contrasting twill tape to your muslin, to indicate possible design changes, moving it around until you're happy with its placement.
Go with the grain
You do always have to keep grain in mind, and know that you will have to add seam allowances to any new seam lines you create, but apart from that, I think you'll be surprised to learn how easy -- and liberating -- a little bit of your own pattern work can be.
Vertical seams can be added to the back panels of a skirt, for example -- your eye will guide their placement. One place to start would be between the center back and side seams, perhaps extending downward the line of a back dart. Similar panels could be created in the front.
Diagonal seams are a great away to add visual interest (if your new seam is off-grain, consider stabilizing the seam line after it's been sewn with a little twill tape, or on-grain fusible tape to keep it from stretching).
Once you have determined your design, it's time to mark your pattern pieces carefully. Cut up your original larger pieces, or you can re-cut a fresh set (which might be less confusing). Be sure to add match points, seam allowances, and grain lines. Chances are the pieces you've created will be smaller and more numerous than what you started with, so be sure to write, for example, "Skirt -- lower back," or "SLB". I often add arrows telling me which is the top of the pattern piece.
For the pattern itself, you can use pattern paper (larger fabric stores stock it); alternatives are interfacing or even the examination table paper found in medical supply stores. Whichever you choose, having it on hand will encourage you to try a little pattern work -- and your designs will truly become "yours."
XSusan Khalje is an author and sewing personality. Contact her at skhalje@aol.com or Box 51 Long Green, Md. 21092. For more information, visit www.SusanKhalje.com.