Lock 24 is one of the region’s treats Comfort and quality

The New Year is a restart. A fresh chance to get things right. Like a third marriage, the triumph of hope over experience.

A comparison of our respective resolutions yielded very little in common. However, there was the mutual goal of finding more joy in everyday things.

Good fortune for us that our first visit of 2016 introduced us to a man who displays joy in his work.

Chef Brian Lowther has been heading the kitchen at Lock 24 for the last two years. With more than 18 years of experience in the trade, he is quick to say how fortunate he has been in getting to work with a lot of great chefs. Lowther wants Lock 24 to be known for good food and reasonable prices in a comfortable atmosphere. He must be on to something as the restaurant was voted “Best Casual Dining” destination in 2015 by readers of Ohio magazine.

Lowther served up a glass of Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale, and with a word of caution – “I hope you guys are hungry” – stepped into the kitchen to give us a sampling of his signature creations.

Our meal started with a bowl of creamy lobster bisque. This dish begins with house-made seafood stock spiced with peppercorns and added to a base of carrot, onions and celery, along with thyme. The bisque is completed with large chunks of lobster and heavy cream to make for a satisfying opener. The spice from the peppercorns and the floral of the thyme provided the needed contrast to the sweetness of the lobster and the richness of the cream.

We were next served one of Lock 24 Signature salads. The Meatball Salad comes with three sizable hand-crafted meatballs. These are served on base of fresh marinara sauce accompanied by a large side of Italian dressed mixed greens, red onions, and olives topped with Romano cheese. The meatballs had a soft texture, and the marinara sauce was fresh-tasting. Combined with the house-made hot peppers in oil and some of their fresh-baked bread, this was a meal in itself.

Lowther then brought out a set of their more popular appetizers: a dish of Crispy Provolone and another with Tuscan Mushrooms. Large chunks of provolone cheese are beer-battered and quick-fried to give a light, crispy texture, then placed atop a chunky plum tomato sauce. The presentation and flavor of this dish made for an upscale version of fried cheese.

The Tuscan Mushrooms are filled with a mixture of Italian sausage, spinach, caramelized onion and trio of cheeses then baked in a marsala wine sauce. The savoriness of the filling balanced nicely against the slight sweetness of the marsala. Both appetizers were delicious and easily sharable.

Before the procession of entrees, we sampled their Grecian flatbread. This dish starts with crispy flatbread that is topped with pesto, feta and parmesan, diced tomatoes, red onions, black olives and finished with a balsamic drizzle. The tanginess of the feta was complimented by the sweetness of the drizzle. The pesto added a nice herb flavor. A wonderful offering, and if you go on a Thursday, Lock 24 has $ 5 flatbread special with a drink purchase.

Lowther explained that whenever possible, he sources ingredients close to home. This may be meat from a local butcher or seasonal produce from a nearby farm. With that, he advised that the entrees would be on their way.

Before the first dish was within sight we could smell the aroma of smoldering wood. Then the Bourbon smoked salmon appeared. The chef takes a nice portion of salmon and par-cooks it. He then finishes it to a perfect medium on the grill on top of a maple hardwood plank. This adds a subtle smokiness that does not overtake the fish. The glaze gives off a mild Bourbon flavor and is slightly sweet: a dish that is as beautiful to look at as it is enjoyable to eat.

Next up was their signature steak, a 24 ounce grilled Porterhouse. This monster was cooked medium rare and served with the Lock trio – a mix of sauteed peppers, caramelized onions and marsala mushrooms. The high-quality steak had a nice char from the grill but still warm medium rare on the inside. Simply seasoned and uncomplicated, this was a perfect steak.

This was followed by a rack of St. Louis ribs. Lowther braises the ribs low and slow until they are tender. He then applies his house-made Spitfire BBQ sauce and finishes them on the grill to get a nice char flavor. The meat was juicy and melted in your mouth. The sauce had a nice mix of sweet and spice. This entree surely will satisfy anyone’s BBQ cravings.

Finally, we sampled Lock 24s signature pork chop, “The Local” Caramel Apple Pork Chop. This is a bone-in chop that is grilled medium and topped with thinly sliced apples and homemade caramel sauce. The chop is thick cut, so it doesn’t dry out when cooking. The sauce and the apples are the perfect marriage with the pork. As was the theme of a lot of the dishes, slight sweetness paired with the char flavor of the meat. The chop is served with a side of creamy sweet potato casserole topped with oats. Mark, being a huge fan of the pig, gave this dish his stamp of approval. Delicious.

We finished our tasting with a piece of Southern Comfort Cheesecake. A classic cheesecake topped with peaches and pecans and served with a Southern Comfort cream sauce, no elaboration is needed.

With this we concluded our first venue of the New Year. We’re off to a great start. Chef Lowther’s hospitality and food set a high bar for the rest of the year. At least one time you should take the drive down to experience the comfort and taste of Lock 24.