No need to get fancy

By PERVAIZ SHALLWANI

Deep-frying. Wood-smoking. Sous vide.

The mind-numbing number of suggestions for mining flavor from the typically unforgiving Thanksgiving bird have proliferated in recent years.

This year, leave them all behind.

For tasty fowl on Turkey Day, the new thing can be the old thing: a classic one-two punch of an overnight brine followed by a quick morning rub before the bird goes into the oven for a slow roast.

The good news is that while the process requires a little planning, little hands-on time is needed.

And the payoff — white meat that doesn’t need a gravy bath to be choked down — is worth it.

THE BRINE

“It’s a couple of minutes, but you are going to get much more flavor,” Jack Bishop, of Cook’s Illustrated magazine, says of brining, a technique in which the turkey is bathed in seasoned salt water to help it retain moisture during roasting.

“The theory behind brining is that the white meat tends to overcook, and by the time the dark meat cooks the white is dried out. I brine my turkey Wednesday night and in the morning I am good to go.”

Brining is essentially what Butterball has been doing for decades.

And that’s the caveat.

Don’t brine a bird that’s already been plumped with a salted, seasoned solution, such as a kosher bird, says Bishop. Be sure to read the labels.

The one disadvantage is that the drippings (and even the turkey) can be salty. To moderate this, most people add sugar to the brine. Brent Young, one of the butchers at The Meat Hook in Brooklyn, N.Y., likes brown sugar.

“The sugar balances the salt a little,” he says. “Also, the sugar will penetrate the skin as well. And since sugar browns so well, you get that picture perfect golden hue to your turkey. Brown sugar is better than regular for a more caramelized flavor.”

Because a turkey must be refrigerated during brining, you need a bucket large enough to hold the bird (plus liquid), yet small enough to fit in your refrigerator. Alternatively, most grocers sell special bags for brining turkeys. These fit more easily in most refrigerators.

BROWN SUGAR TURKEY BRINE

For more flavor, you also can add whole peppercorns, cumin, coriander and crushed garlic.

Start to finish: 6 to 8 hours (10 minutes active)

Makes enough for a 14- to 16-pound turkey

1 cup kosher salt

1‚Ñ2 cup brown sugar

4 quarts cold water

In a large bucket or brining bag, dissolve the salt and sugar in the water. Submerge the turkey, then cover the bucket or seal the bag. Refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours. When ready to roast, remove the turkey, rinse under cool water, then pat dry with paper towels.

THE RUB

Once the bird is out of the brine, it’s time to rub in some flavor. A mix of spices or herbs diluted in a little bit of fat, such as butter or oil, is rubbed on the meat, both under and over the skin.

The options are limited only by the flavors you enjoy. If using fresh herbs, be sure to mince them well. And there’s nothing wrong with using a purchased seasoning mix (whether or not it’s called a rub). Just be sure to go easy. Too much and you will overpower the meat.

“That’s one of the great things about spice rubs or spice pastes, they are concentrated in flavor. It doesn’t take a whole lot of spice to get a deep and good taste,” says John Willoughby, who was executive editor of the recently closed Gourmet magazine.

But to get those flavors deep into the meat, you’ll need to rub the mixture both over and under the skin, says Bishop. That involves gently lifting and pulling the skin away from the flesh, rubbing the seasonings under it, then patting the skin back down.

To give the bird a little kick, lightly dust the outside with ground black pepper.

To make a rub for a 12- to 14-pound bird, you will need about 2 tablespoons of low- or no-salt seasoning (such as dried herbs) mixed with 1‚Ñ4 cup of oil or butter. Be wary of any purchased seasoning mixture that contains salt; the brining adds enough salt.

Need some ideas? Try toasted cumin, ginger, coriander, smoked paprika and orange zest diluted in a neutral oil, such as canola. Or try finely chopped fresh sage and garlic mixed into brown butter.

THE ROAST

There are many theories about the best roasting technique. Some advocate an even temperature — usually somewhere 325 and 400 degrees — throughout the cooking. Others crank the heat to 425 degrees at the beginning, then finish at a lower temperature.

For a good basic roast for a 12-pound turkey, start it at 400 degrees for an hour, then reduce the temperature to 350 degrees, tent it with foil and roast for about another 11‚Ñ2 hours.

Whatever your approach on temperature, prepping the bird for the oven is key. Wrap the wings in foil and tuck them behind the neck. This helps prevent them from burning. Also tie the ends of the legs together with twine to help contain the juices.

When roasting, it’s also important to cook the turkey on a rack set into a roasting pan. This ensures the bird roasts evenly. Fill the pan with a few large chopped carrots and onions and a bit of liquid (water, wine or broth) to give the drippings added flavor.

Roast the turkey, basting every 30 minutes with juice from the pan, until the breast registers 160 degrees and the thickest part of the thigh reaches 170 degrees. About midway through, tent the bird with foil to keep the skin from burning.

Remove the turkey from the oven and let the bird rest at least 20 minutes before carving.

The Associated Press. All Rights Reserved.