Little love separates the Twins

By KERRI WESTENBERG

The Twin Cities may be close to each other, but different experiences can be had in each.

ST. PAUL, Minn. — Here is a tidbit about the home of the Republican National Convention, one widely acknowledged by its residents but little understood beyond. Minneapolis and St. Paul may be twin cities, but they share little familial love. Ten short miles between downtowns — and a heap of sibling rivalry — separate them.

One lifelong Minneapolitan once quipped about St. Paul, “I haven’t been there in decades; why bother?” A St. Paulite I know derides Minneapolis’ “sprawl.” Residents of each believe their chosen city to be vastly superior, embracing the right frame of mind and promoting the right kind of community (a tad similar to the way Republicans and Democrats view the opposing party, I suppose). And — in the case of the Twin Cities, anyway — each is right in its own way. And that means a visit to the Twin Cities is as rewarding as, say, nominating your favorite candidate to be the next president of the United States.

The common (and somewhat accurate) stereotype? St. Paul, the city to the east of the Mississippi River, honors its history; Minneapolis, on the west, paves over hers. Translation: St. Paul enchants with historic buildings and quaint neighborhoods; Minneapolis enthralls with flashy modern architecture and bustling nightlife.

St. Paulites will be quick to point out that their city is the one hosting the convention. True, technically, since the venue, the Xcel Energy Center, is in the heart of downtown, but the estimated 45,000 souls traveling to the Twin Cities for the convention will sleep in available hotel rooms throughout the metro area. So, what to do when you’re not sleeping — or rallying to Sen. John McCain?

Let’s start with a quick tour of highlights in St. Paul, since that’s where conventioneers will be spending their days, if not their nights.

In the wee hours, Mickey’s Diner makes a great pit stop. Housed in an old railroad car near the Xcel, the classic greasy spoon delivers crispy hash browns or hamburgers 24 hours a day. Another downtown option, a favorite of polished politicos, is the St. Paul Grill, with white tablecloths, leather booths and hearty slabs of steak.

But don’t stay downtown or you’ll miss the best of St. Paul: its neighborhoods. Among the most famous, and oldest, is Cathedral Hill (you’ll know it by the copper-domed Cathedral of St. Paul looming over the city). From there, you can stroll Summit Avenue, a wide boulevard lined with mansions that date to the late 1800s, none more striking than the James J. Hill House. That red sandstone behemoth, built with the proceeds of the Great Northern Railway, is open for tours daily.

Those hungry from walking will want to hop over to Grand Avenue, which runs parallel to Summit, for a stop in at Cafe Latte, known for its decadent desserts. My favorite: turtle cake, a concoction of chocolate cake, caramel and pecans. But don’t overlook the cafe’s salads. You’ll need the energy to shop the sharply stocked boutiques, which will come in handy if you’re lacking the perfect party dress for the Republican Party’s big party.

Fort Snelling, an 1820s military outpost at the confluence of the Mississippi and Minnesota rivers, was built to protect the area from Canadian and British encroachment. Today, it makes a nice stop for the military set. On weekends in September, costumed guides make stew over open fires, play fifes and practice military drill and weapons firings.

Just across the Mississippi from Fort Snelling, Minneapolis awaits.

The crowning jewel of the city — until the next big thing comes along, anyway — is the Guthrie Theater. The midnight-blue minimalist beauty puts on a good show even for visitors not holding a ticket to one of the three stages inside. Among the highlights: blue and yellow windows that neatly frame its neighbors on the riverfront, mostly old mill buildings, and a vertigo-inducing cantilevered walkway that thrusts 178 feet toward the Mississippi.

The Walker Art Center, on the other side of downtown, shines pretty brightly, too. Literally. A 2005 redesign left that modern art museum sided in brushed aluminum. Through Sept. 7, visitors can putt in the glow of its refracted light on an artist-designed miniature golf course.