When to, why to make change

Monday, August 28, 2006 There's a lot you need to know about what makes organic different. By JOAN BRUNSKILL ASSOCIATED PRESS "Organic" is a hot topic in the food world, as in other areas of life, and myriad products bear the term on their labels. But it's not always as simple as the word may lead one to believe. During the 1990s organic farming became one of the fastest growing segments of U.S. agriculture, the U.S. Department of Agriculture says. By 2004, organic farming was being practiced on some 3.7 million acres in North America. The Organic Trade Association's figures for 2005 showed that sales of organic foods and beverages, amounting to about $13.8 billion, represented 2.5 percent of total U.S. food sales, an increase from about 0.8 percent in 1997. (The OTA is a membership-based business association that says it "protects the integrity of organic standards and works to promote organic products in the marketplace.") Organic is a wholesome-sounding word. But the buzz around it can be confusing. Many questions about organics, including its purported benefits, remain unanswered. Here are some of the basics, a guide to questions you should ask and a sampling of opinions to help you make informed choices as you shop for food. DICTIONARY DEFINITION FOR THE ADJECTIVE 'ORGANIC' "Having the characteristics of, or derived from, living organisms. Grown with only animal or vegetable fertilizers, as manure, bone meal, compost, etc." (Webster's New World). There's now a government definition. In 2002, the Department of Agriculture put in place a set of national standards that food labeled "organic" must meet, whether it is grown in the United States or imported from other countries. The USDA explanation of organic food: "Organic food is produced by farmers who emphasize the use of renewable resources and the conservation of soil and water to enhance environmental quality for future generations. Organic meat, poultry, eggs, and dairy products come from animals that are given no antibiotics or growth hormones. Organic food is produced without using most conventional pesticides; fertilizers made with synthetic ingredients or sewage sludge; bioengineering; or ionizing radiation." Before a product can be labeled "organic," a government-approved certifier inspects the farm where the food is produced to make sure the farmer is following all the rules necessary to meet USDA organic standards. Companies that handle or process organic food before it gets to your local supermarket or restaurant must be certified, too. The USDA doesn't claim that organically produced food is safer or more nutritious than conventionally produced food — just that it's different from conventionally produced food in the way it is grown, handled and processed. REGULATING THE PRODUCTS Along with the national organic standards, the USDA developed strict labeling rules to help consumers know the exact organic content of the food they buy. The USDA Organic seal tells you that a product is at least 95 percent organic. Single-ingredient foods. Look for the word "organic" and a small sticker version of the USDA Organic seal on vegetables or pieces of fruit, the USDA suggests. You may also see this information on a sign above the organic produce display. The word "organic" and the seal may also appear on packages of meat, cartons of milk or eggs, cheese, and other single-ingredient foods. For foods with more than one ingredient there are four labeling categories: "100 percent organic"; "organic" (95 to 100 percent organic ingredients); "made with organic ingredients" (at least 70 percent organic ingredients); products with less than 70 percent organic ingredients may list specific organically produced ingredients on the side panel of the package, but can't make any organic claims on the front of the package. Remember: The use of the seal is voluntary. Some producers choose not to apply for certification, although they might qualify. People who misuse the label can be fined up to $10,000 for each violation. The USDA points out that the words natural and organic are not interchangeable. "Other truthful claims, such as free-range, hormone-free, and natural, can still appear on food labels," the USDA says. "However, don't confuse these terms with 'organic.' Only food labeled 'organic' has been certified as meeting USDA organic standards." The USDA has not yet developed organic certification standards for seafood. More detailed information on the USDA organic standards is available on their Web site at: http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop. Also, you may call the National Organic Program at (202) 720-3252, or write USDA-AMS-TM-NOP, Room 4008 S. Bldg., Ag Stop 0268, 1400 Independence, SW, Washington, DC 20250. HOW TO DECIDE WHETHER TO BUY ORGANIC Opinions vary widely. Using organic foods has health benefits for us personally and for the environment as a whole, says Paul McRandle, senior research editor for The Green Guide, published by The Green Guide Institute, a non-profit clearing house on eco-friendly consumer information. "A big selling point for organics is that, yes, you should eat your seven to nine servings of vegetables a day — but preferably organic vegetables, meaning at the least you are not ingesting poisons and toxic substances whose accumulation can do you harm," he said at a recent interview. This applies especially to children, he added. A study published in February and supported by the U.S. Enviromental Protection Agency involved a group of children in the Seattle area. This research showed that organic diets can significantly lower children's dietary exposure to pesticides often used in agriculture — and lower the health risks that may be associated with these exposures. Opposite views on pesticides in general, from organizations including the Hudson Institute, a Washington, D.C., think-tank, maintain that amounts of approved chemicals ingested are too insignificant to be harmful. As for the environment, McRandle says there's concern about the way pesticides, such as those used in big amounts in the cultivation of corn, tend to run off in waterways. They've been shown to cause deformities in amphibians, for example, he says. "Fertilizers, nitrogen-based, also end up in waterways, so you get the algae blooms and dead zones in oceans we see — there are now some 117 dead zones on record." Advocates of buying local and supporting local producers make a point: Organic produce imported from far-off places may not be exactly friendly to the environment. In a special report on organics in EatingWell magazine, health and science writer Peter Jaret comments on such imported items he saw in his market: "Fresh from the garden they weren't. And whatever pesticides were spared in growing them were more than made up for by the petrochemicals used to get them here." Groups such as Chefs Collaborative support sustainable agriculture — which emphasizes ways to keep from depleting soil of its nutrients — and buying local produce in season. Chefs Collaborative is a national network of more than 1,000 members of the food community which says it promotes "sustainable cuisine by celebrating the joys of local, seasonal, and artisanal cooking." These chefs carry out these principles in running their businesses, and consumers can take notice of their practices. By buying locally, you can get close to the producers, talk to the people who sell and ask how their foods are produced, even what pesticides they use, if any. Several organizations and publications offer lists to help you decide when and if it's worth choosing organic over conventionally grown produce, mostly based on how much pesticides different items absorb and retain. Conventionally grown fruit and vegetables can contain the residues of as many as 51 different pesticides, while organic has two-thirds less, says The Green Guide. If you want to reduce your family's exposures, pick up organic varieties of these most contaminated "top ten": Among similar assessments of when it pays to buy organic are those offered in Consumer Reports, February 2006, published by the Consumers Union; and in the July-August 2006 issue of Women's Health magazine. Copyright 2006 Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.