SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE

With all these options, why not tap into veggie goodness?
By CECE SULLIVAN
KNIGHT RIDDER NEWSPAPERS
Why does the subject of vegetables inflame such passionate feelings? A brief, innocent mention of Brussels sprouts in a casual conversation can lead to long-winded diatribes about their vile smell and foul flavor.
One colleague even abhors "green things" to such a degree that he's limited his vegetable choices to three: tomatoes, corn and lettuce (which is also green but evidently bland enough to please his picky palate).
Then there's the contentious matter of a cooked vegetable's texture. To some, asparagus that's been cooked al dente is perfectly sublime. But to others, those same asparagus aren't tender-crisp at all but downright raw and inedible.
Fortunately, the field of vegetables is so vast, and their cooking methods so gloriously varied, that there's something for everyone.
In "Vegetables Every Day" (Harper Collins, 2001) author Jack Bishop divides cooking techniques for vegetables into dry and moist heat methods. It's a good starting point, because each will produce its own flavor and texture.
So here's a guide to the best cooking methods for seasonal produce. Then check out our list of vegetables to learn how to pair them up.
MOIST-HEAT METHODS
Blanch: Vegetables are briefly put into a saucepan of boiling water and the timing begins immediately. This method doesn't fully cook the food but softens the texture.
To stop the cooking and set the color, "refresh" vegetables by immediately draining and plunging them into ice water.
Vegetables can be blanched a day in advance of serving. Once they're refreshed, pat with paper towels, then wrap in dry towels, place in a plastic bag and refrigerate. Finish cooking by sauteing or stir-frying the vegetables.
Blanching and refreshing are also necessary before freezing vegetables to keep the enzymes from breaking down both color and texture.
Boil: Here's a myth buster. Adding a pinch of baking soda to boiling water may indeed help keep vegetables green, but the soda's alkali destroys cell walls, causing a mushy texture -- so skip that idea.
There is, however, a real solution to holding the vibrant color.
"Essentially, with most green vegetables, you can count on having seven minutes of heat before there is a major color change," says Shirley Corriher, author of "CookWise: The Secrets of Cooking Revealed" (William Morrow, 1997). "Cooking longer will cause the natural acids present in vegetables to turn them yellow-brown."
Vegetables should be added to rapidly boiling water and the timing should begin only when the water returns to the boil. Always leave the pan uncovered. If boiling vegetables for a salad, be sure to refresh them to stop the cooking.
Braise: Vegetables contain lots of natural moisture, which releases in cooking. Lightly brown the vegetable in a little fat, than add a tablespoon or two of liquid to start the cooking process. Cover the pan and cook slowly over medium-low heat. Once the vegetable has released its moisture, add only enough additional liquid to keep it moist.
Poach: This technique is similar to boiling but uses less liquid and a lower heat to gently cook more fragile vegetables.
Steam: A large pot and a simple steamer basket are the tools needed to cook vegetables with this method. Don't pack the basket too tightly with food or the cooking will be uneven. Bring the water to a boil before placing the covered basket above the pot.
DRY-HEAT METHODS
These evaporate moisture in the vegetables quickly, which causes the juices to brown and the natural sugars to concentrate and become very flavorful.
Broil: The heat source is above the food, making this a great technique for blistering the skins of sweet peppers or chilies for easy peeling and a smoky flavor. Sliced vegetables such as eggplant should be brushed lightly with oil to keep them from drying out under the high heat.
Grill: This technique is similar to broiling, but the heat source comes from below, and a basting liquid is needed to keep food moist. Grill baskets or a perforated stainless-steel grid are perfect for keeping small vegetables such as mushrooms and cherry tomatoes from falling into the fire below. For indoor cooking, heavy grill pans caramelize the vegetables and give them a wonderful smoky flavor.
Roast: This has become a favorite technique for cooking vegetables. Toss with a light coating of olive oil and sprinkle lightly with salt, then roast in a single layer in a shallow, rimmed baking sheet. The high temperature of 400 degrees or above causes the vegetables to shrink and loose their natural moisture, which concentrates the sugars and deepens the flavor. (Baking uses a temperature of 375 degrees or lower.)
Saute: The pan size should be large enough to cook the vegetables in a single layer without crowding. The bottom of the pan should have a light coating of oil, or a mixture of oil and butter. A nonstick cooking spray can also be used. Set the pan over medium heat and wait for the oil to become hot before adding the vegetables. Blanch tougher vegetables such as green beans first to speed the cooking process.
Stir-fry: Basically, this technique is similar to a saute, but vegetables are cut into smaller pieces. Use medium-high to high heat for quick cooking and toss often.
Sources: "Williams-Sonoma Kitchen Companion: The A to Z Guide to Everyday Cooking Equipment and Ingredients & quot;; "Vegetables Every Day" by Jack Bishop; "Perfect Vegetables" by the editors of Cook's Illustrated Magazine; "CookWise" by Shirley Corriher.
GRILLED VEGETABLES WITH BALSAMIC AND OLIVE OIL
1 pound medium-thick asparagus
3 red bell peppers, cut in half, stemmed and seeded
2 yellow summer squash, cut diagonally into 1/2-to 3/4-inch slices
2 zucchini, cut diagonally into 1/2-inch slices
12 cremini mushrooms
12 green onions
4 tablespoons (approx.) olive oil, divided
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
1/2 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
Snap off ends of asparagus and wash well. If very sandy, let soak for a few minutes in cold water, agitating slightly. Drain, rinse and repeat if necessary. Wrap in paper towels and set aside.
Cut each bell pepper half into quarters and set aside. Prepare yellow squash and zucchini; set aside. Wipe mushrooms with a damp paper towel, trim stem ends and cut each in half. Trim and discard ends from green onions. Rinse well and pat dry.
Whisk together 2 tablespoons olive oil with balsamic vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon salt and a little pepper; set aside. Brush vegetables with remaining olive oil and sprinkle with remaining salt and pepper.
Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for medium-high heat, or preheat a ridged grill pan for 5 minutes on medium-high. Working in batches, grill vegetables until tender and lightly charred all over, about 8 to 10 minutes for bell peppers, yellow squash and zucchini; 5 to 10 minutes for asparagus; 5 to 7 minutes for mushrooms; and 4 to 5 minutes for green onions. Arrange on a platter, sprinkle with herbs and drizzle with dressing. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
From "Everyday Italian" by Giada De Laurentiis
SAUTEED ARTICHOKES WITH CRISPY GARLIC AND SAGE
1 lemon, cut in half
4 artichokes (see note)
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
8 medium cloves garlic, very thinly sliced
15 fresh sage leaves
1/2 cup water
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Squeeze lemon juice into a medium bowl and fill with cold water. Set aside.
Prepare artichoke bottoms (see step-by-step instructions on this page) and drop into the lemon water to keep from browning.
In a large nonstick skillet, combine oil and garlic, cover and cook over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until garlic is barely golden, about 5 minutes. Uncover and cook until crisp, about 1 minute longer. With a slotted spoon, transfer garlic to a small bowl.
Raise heat to medium. Add sage leaves to hot oil in skillet and cook 2 to 3 minutes, turning once, until leaves are darkened, fragrant and crisp. Add to garlic. Drain off and reserve oil.
Drain artichokes and add to skillet with 1/2-cup water and salt. Cover and cook over medium heat about 10 to 12 minutes or until most of the water has evaporated and the artichokes are tender but not mushy. Uncover, increase heat to high and cook to evaporate any remaining liquid. Add reserved oil and saute artichokes, turning often, until browned, about 4 to 5 minutes. Season with pepper and serve hot or at room temperature, scattering garlic and sage leaves over the top.
Makes 4 servings.
To make ahead: Up to 5 hours ahead, the artichokes can be braised until tender and the liquid has evaporated. (Do not saute.) Refrigerate. Finish the dish by sauteing the artichokes until browned.
Note: The leaves can be steamed in a basket until tender. Depending on the amount to be steamed, the timing can range from 10 to 30 minutes.
From "A New Way to Cook" by Sally Schneider
BRAISED SWEET PEPPERS WITH OLIVES
3 red bell peppers
3 yellow bell peppers
2 orange bell peppers
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 cups thinly sliced yellow onions
3 medium cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
3/4 cup mixed pitted olives (do not use canned)
Cut tops from bell peppers and remove seeds. Cut peppers into 1/4-inch thick slices and set aside.
In a 31/2-quart, heavy-bottomed pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add onions and saute until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add bell peppers and saute 3 minutes. Stir in garlic, salt, pepper and crushed red pepper.
Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and cook gently 35 minutes, stirring occasionally. (The vegetables will release their juices, which become the braising liquid.) Stir in olives and continue cooking, uncovered, 15 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
Adapted from a recipe by English chef Sophie Conran